Anybody done Vogtland springs?

[CraigM]

I am strongly considering them for my 2000 2.7. My concern is if I can get it in proper alignment without adjustable rear control arms, since that would add quite a bit. The drop is supposed to be 1.2 inches (30mm) front and rear.

Any experience? Or anybody able to get, say, Eibachs in proper alignment without adjustable rears? I don't want to eat up my tires.

(I know I need a full spring/strut/sway setup, but frankly there are not many twisty roads I get to drive regularly around here, so I'm happy with making it sit right and maybe getting a little but more feel out of it until I do a full overhaul down the road.)

[CraigM]

Ok, finally found a pic of one with the Vogtland springs - looks low enough to need adjustable rears. May be a while longer.

[PaulDash]

Hey Craig (and others)!

What's the consensus on mounting these? Are adjustable control arms required to get alignment?

Specs say these lower f & r by 30mm, the Eibach springs lower f & r by 25mm, and the ROW M030(which I have as a factory option!) springs lower f by 20mm & r by 10mm.

[steved0x]

By adjustable control arms, there are a couple of factors:

Lowering the car will increase the amount of negative camber front and back. if on a stock car you can go from +.5 degree to -.5 degree in the front (hypothetical ranges) when you lower your new range may be -.3 to -1.3. Same thing in the back, although you are starting from a higher negative amount of camber.

In the back, the toe adjustment has very little range of adjustment. if you lower, you are going to have to run a very high amount of negative camber if you want your toe to be in spec. If you dial out the negative camber to get back to the "stock" setting of around -1.6, your toe will run out of room. That is when you need something like this:

Adjustable Rear Toe Arm-Rennline, Inc.

You can save a few bucks by buying this part:
Inner Adjustable Rear Toe Arm-Rennline, Inc.

And then some TRW front outer tie rod ends.

If you lower the back by 1.2 inches you will probably need the toe arm adjustment.

A different member recently found this set by Megan racing, which looks to currently be an affordable option:

Megan Racing

Cheaper on eBay.

It says Boxster 05-12 but it is the same for 986 Boxsters, with possibly the exception of the very first 1997 Boxsters which had some suspension differences, but I couldn't tell you what.

[PaulDash]

Thanks for the detailed answer.

So in short, I can't go with the Vogtland springs. Without changing other suspension parts, what would be the springs to use?

I'm planning on changing my struts to the Koni FSD.

[steved0x]

Koni FSD are approved (by Koni) for OEM springs, and Eibach Pro Kit springs, which you can only get used here in the US but you can still buy new overseas.

I happened to luck onto a set of the rear adjustable toe arms, and so I never got to see first hand what happens to the toe with stock toe arms when you lower the car, my statements were all based on research and what I have read on here. So don't give up on the Vogtland just yet, maybe someone has installed them and can let you know for sure about the requirement for the rear toe arm. Maybe they are only needed for extreme lowering like on a race car?

[Gilles]

Steve,

When I installed the KW-V3's, I 'only' lower the car about 1" front/rear but as you mention, it was enough to run out of adjustment with the OEM rear toe links.

And after wearing the rear tires way sooner that they should, I decided to invest on a set of Rennline links and that took care of the toe (and bump steer) issues.

[steved0x]

Originally Posted by Gilles

Steve,

When I installed the KW-V3's, I 'only' lower the car about 1" front/rear but as you mention, it was enough to run out of adjustment with the OEM rear toe links.

And after wearing the rear tires way sooner that they should, I decided to invest on a set of Rennline links and that took care of the toe (and bump steer) issues.

Thanks Gilles, so with a 1" drop, we run out of toe adjustment (unless we want to scrub rear tires and wear them out like super crazy!)

I've got the same set, the rennline with bump steer adjustment and locking plates.

I've heard nothing but good about the KW-V3, how are you liking them?

[Gilles]

Originally Posted by steved0x

Thanks Gilles, so with a 1" drop, we run out of toe adjustment (unless we want to scrub rear tires and wear them out like super crazy!)

I've got the same set, the rennline with bump steer adjustment and locking plates.

I've heard nothing but good about the KW-V3, how are you liking them?

Steve,

Time sure flies, as I had the KW-V3's for 9+ years and about 90k miles!

I will be removing them soon and send them to KW for a rebuild as the front ones started to feel a little soft, KW quoted between $180-200 per shock which after all these miles I can't complain.

The good: I really like the fact that you can adjust the compression and rebound separately so you can dial the suspension (if you really know what you are doing) which I don't... LOL

The bad: I don't like is the fact that on the Cayman, you have to remove the rear speakers to adjust the rebound, also the compression adjuster is at the bottom of the struts making it difficult to reach.

If I had the money I would have purchased the JRZ's instead but those cost way more than twice the cost of the KW-V3's

IMHO, for the price, the KW-V3 are a great deal (but you may want to check the KW Clubsports)

[steved0x]

My friend has the club sports on his Caymans, he loves them and he is fast as $%&%$