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Old 02-04-2015, 06:29 PM   #1
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Warmer weather coming, almost time for to replace the rear wheel bearings

I have all the tools (I think) and am getting ready to tackle this job, I want to pull the axles with the wheels left in place. While I have the axles out I want to repack and reboot them...my question to someone who has done this is how difficult is it to remove the rear axles with the hubs left in place so no alignment is necessary after the job is done ? Will I have to pull the exhaust to get the axles clear ??

THanks
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Old 02-04-2015, 06:46 PM   #2
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Originally Posted by Pdwight View Post
I have all the tools (I think) and am getting ready to tackle this job, I want to pull the axles with the wheels left in place. While I have the axles out I want to repack and reboot them...my question to someone who has done this is how difficult is it to remove the rear axles with the hubs left in place so no alignment is necessary after the job is done ? Will I have to pull the exhaust to get the axles clear ??

THanks
Dwight
Hi Dwight.
Very easy to take the axles out with the hubs on the car.
You will need to remove the cats.
When I did the job, passenger side came out easy, driver side neede proswation
Needed to use PB bluster to lobricate the splin, and hit it with a heavy hammer.
When you undo the nut, leave it on the shaft, and bang on it.
You will need to use new nut anyway.
Good luck.
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Old 02-05-2015, 01:22 AM   #3
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Thanks, I already have the secondary bypass cat pipes.....will I just need to remove these or the complete exhaust system ?

Also if my splines come out easy will I still need to replace the rear axle nuts ??

Thanks
Dwight
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Old 02-05-2015, 01:53 AM   #4
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I did the bearings last spring. I opened the ball joint of the lower control arms. That allows to move the wheel carrier outside and pull the axles. You have to replace all the nuts.

Herbert
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Old 02-05-2015, 12:41 PM   #5
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Thanks, I already have the secondary bypass cat pipes.....will I just need to remove these or the complete exhaust system ?

Also if my splines come out easy will I still need to replace the rear axle nuts ??

Thanks
Dwight
just the bypass pipes.
and yes. the nuts needs to be replaced anyway.
also take in mind you will need to torque them to 340 ft-lbs, so you need a very large torque wrench, or use the method described in this writ up fig 15:
Pelican Technical Article: Boxster Wheel Bearing Replacement - 986 / 987
i also assume you have the SIR tool Pelican Parts - Product Information: PEL-TOL-SIRB90-P2 ore you will not be able to remove the bearing with the hub on the car.
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Old 02-05-2015, 03:01 PM   #6
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just the bypass pipes.
and yes. the nuts needs to be replaced anyway.
also take in mind you will need to torque them to 340 ft-lbs, so you need a very large torque wrench, or use the method described in this writ up fig 15:
Pelican Technical Article: Boxster Wheel Bearing Replacement - 986 / 987
i also assume you have the SIR tool Pelican Parts - Product Information: PEL-TOL-SIRB90-P2 ore you will not be able to remove the bearing with the hub on the car.
Many thanks, this has really helped . I will get new Nuts on the way (bad pun)as it looks like will need some to get the existing ones off. Should any type of thread sealant be used ? (Red Locktite)

I have the Harbour Freight bearing puller I bought just for this job and I hope it is up to the task, I also have the additional bearing separator p[late and the stuff is huge and the same items the guy used in the BMW E36 video....now just for some 50+ degree days to get this done.
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Old 02-06-2015, 01:35 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by Pdwight View Post
Many thanks, this has really helped . I will get new Nuts on the way (bad pun)as it looks like will need some to get the existing ones off. Should any type of thread sealant be used ? (Red Locktite)

I have the Harbour Freight bearing puller I bought just for this job and I hope it is up to the task, I also have the additional bearing separator p[late and the stuff is huge and the same items the guy used in the BMW E36 video....now just for some 50+ degree days to get this done.
locktite is always recommended.
not sure about the HF puller you have, but i'm sure you gonna keep us posted.
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Old 02-10-2015, 07:33 AM   #8
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There's a deal on ******************************** for aftermarket rear axle for 3.2 auto tranny @ $30. I have a 2.7L auto tranny and they send me the wrong one and found out that they catalogue it wrong.

If you go to 2.7L or 3.2L drop-down menu, they're $30/axle. PLEASE DO NOT HOG IT ALL.

I'm gonna rebuild my axle instead and replace my wheel bearing. I don't know if y'all want to see the process via video. If there's enough interest, I'll get someone to film it.
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Last edited by Trey T; 02-10-2015 at 07:45 AM.
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Old 02-10-2015, 07:38 AM   #9
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locktite is always recommended.
not sure about the HF puller you have, but i'm sure you gonna keep us posted.
Put loctite on the axle nuts & you will probably never get them off again without breaking something!
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Old 02-10-2015, 11:22 AM   #10
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Put loctite on the axle nuts & you will probably never get them off again without breaking something!
BY is right.
loctite on the bolts, not on the nuts.
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Old 02-10-2015, 01:13 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by Pdwight View Post
Many thanks, this has really helped . I will get new Nuts on the way (bad pun)as it looks like will need some to get the existing ones off. Should any type of thread sealant be used ? (Red Locktite)

I have the Harbour Freight bearing puller I bought just for this job and I hope it is up to the task, I also have the additional bearing separator p[late and the stuff is huge and the same items the guy used in the BMW E36 video....now just for some 50+ degree days to get this done.
harbor freight bearing puller is not going to do the job .
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Old 02-10-2015, 01:20 PM   #12
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i bought the 20 ton press from harbor freight and removed the carrier from the car ( a little extra work but not bad) and pressed them out and in , only a few minutes work with the press and some circle blocks of wood. If the axle wont come out with a few hammer blows A H.F. impact hammer will do it .
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Old 02-10-2015, 01:44 PM   #13
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I wasn't planning to take off the carrier to press the hub and bearing out but how did you remove the hand brake wire?
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Old 02-10-2015, 07:20 PM   #14
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Trey.
Let me know if you decide to go with the SIR tool.
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Old 02-10-2015, 07:37 PM   #15
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Since I already bought it

Months ago at that, I am going to try the Harbour freight tool....if I break it I will have to go a different route...a year ago I would have bought the SIR tool without blinking....but lost my job last summer and my new one makes less than half what I was making...we do what we can
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Old 02-11-2015, 05:09 AM   #16
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I wasn't planning to take off the carrier to press the hub and bearing out but how did you remove the hand brake wire?
you have to take the parking brake apart . the cable just pulls out of the carrier . there are some small parts in the parking brake assembly so carefully note how it is put together. when i did my 996 i left the pads on the carrier you just need to be more carful in the press.
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Old 02-11-2015, 05:12 AM   #17
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I wasn't planning to take off the carrier to press the hub and bearing out but how did you remove the hand brake wire?
I welded a stand off that bridges the bearing and allows it to be pulled out from the outside with the HF puller kit without removing the hub. Way easier.
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Old 02-11-2015, 05:27 AM   #18
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Originally Posted by Pdwight View Post
Months ago at that, I am going to try the Harbour freight tool....if I break it I will have to go a different route...a year ago I would have bought the SIR tool without blinking....but lost my job last summer and my new one makes less than half what I was making...we do what we can
It is not that it will break . The tool is not set up correctly to pull or insert the bearing . The SIR tool or a press is the way to do this . I did both my Boxster and 996 , learned a lot . it is easy to damage the new bearing as well .
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Old 09-16-2015, 05:51 AM   #19
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I welded a stand off that bridges the bearing and allows it to be pulled out from the outside with the HF puller kit without removing the hub. Way easier.
Hello Timco,

By any chance do you have the Harbor Freight part number for the bearing puller kit you used?

The carrier is installed on the car and the puller I bought broke while replacing the second rear wheel bearing...

Thank you!
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Old 09-16-2015, 07:17 AM   #20
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Hello Timco,

By any chance do you have the Harbor Freight part number for the bearing puller kit you used?

The carrier is installed on the car and the puller I bought broke while replacing the second rear wheel bearing...

Thank you!
It's actually a CV kit as I remember but it has all the discs and a threaded rod and nuts. I made my own rod and welded double bolt.

I have the case at my shop. Will check later gladly.
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