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Old 01-16-2015, 07:11 AM   #1
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Engine temperarture pass 180 F problem solved

This is for your information. I have 2002 Boxster base 2.7 L having a problem for 3 years on engine temperature passing 180 degrees. Last 3 years ago, I replaced my water pump, thermostat (160) and coolant. But after doing that, my engine temperature keep passing over the number zero "0". How can it be that after replacing the thermostat with low temp 160 thermostat, the temperature keeps doing it. Thinking that the new water pump may be broken, I replaced the new water pump with a new one for the second time. After driving the car, the temperature keeps passing the number zero (of 180). I followed Pedro's Garage instructions and even bought and used the pressurized method of charging coolant. I even have to pull up the coolant reservoir's pin to remove any air entrapment, no change at all and still the same. 3 years of thinking why after changing parts and spending a lot of money on cooling system, the engine temperature keeps passing the zero in 180 mark.

Last week, I decided to replace the "AIR TEMPERATURE SENSOR" that is located between the air intake in engine compartment. The sensor is very cheap why not change it. Behold..........after driving it for one week, the engine temperature never passed the the number "8" of 180 mark. I really don't know why, but I am very happy that I don't need to replace my water pump for the third times. I can drive all day long with the temperature needle never pass the vertical position.

Last edited by itoy; 01-16-2015 at 07:24 AM.
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Old 01-16-2015, 07:24 AM   #2
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This is for your information. I have 2002 Boxster base 2.7 L having a problem for 3 years on engine temperature passing 180 degrees. Last 3 years ago, I replaced my water pump, thermostat (160) and coolant. But after doing that, my engine temperature keep passing over the number zero "0". How can it be that after replacing the thermostat with low temp 160 thermostat, the temperature keeps doing it. Thinking that the new water pump may be broken, I replaced the new water pump with a new one for the second time. After driving the car, the temperature keeps passing the number zero (of 180). I followed Pedro's Garage instructions and even bought and used the pressurized method of charging coolant. I even have to pull up the coolant reservoir's pin to remove any air entrapment, no change at all and still the same. 3 years of thinking why after changing parts and spending a lot of money on cooling system, the engine temperature keeps passing the zero in 180 mark.

Last week, I decided to replace the "AIR TEMPERATURE SENSOR" that is located between the air intake in engine compartment. The sensor is very cheap why not change it. Behold..........after driving it for one week, the engine temperature never passed the the number "8" of 180 mark. I really don't know why, but I am very happy that I don't need to replace my water pump for the third times. I can drive all day long with the temperature dial never pass the vertical position.
Several sensors are connected to the cooling system diagnostics system. If you look up the various functions of a blinking coolant light, one is a defective engine compartment temp sensor.

Four functions of the coolant warning light:

1. Engine coolant level too low
— light flashes slowly (0.5 Hz)
2. Engine compartment temperature too high
— light flashes slowly (0.5 Hz) (engine compartment blower might be faulty)
3. Engine coolant temperature too high
— light is lit; pointer on the right
4. Temperature sensor at water outlet faulty
— light flashes rapidly (1 Hz); pointer on the right

Note
The temperature warning in point three is indicated if the conditions "engine coolant temperature too high" and "engine coolant level too low" are present simultaneously
(1Hz = 1 flash per second. 0.5Hz = 2 seconds per flash)
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Old 01-16-2015, 08:27 AM   #3
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I understand why the engine compartment air temp sensor would be part of the cooling diagnostics, but the OP wasn't getting any temp warning lights; the engine temp gauge simply ran a little "high".

Any idea how the engine compartment temp sensor ties into the reading on the temp gauge on the dash?
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Old 01-16-2015, 09:42 AM   #4
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I understand why the engine compartment air temp sensor would be part of the cooling diagnostics, but the OP wasn't getting any temp warning lights; the engine temp gauge simply ran a little "high".

Any idea how the engine compartment temp sensor ties into the reading on the temp gauge on the dash?
If something was wrong with the temp sensor, and it was acting up electrically, it could affect other things in the same circuit, like the already questionable dash display accuracy.

Just another reason to not trust the dash gauge...........
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Old 01-16-2015, 10:18 AM   #5
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I had this same problem on my '99 Tip and went through three water pumps, new coolant and new V belts until a coolant bypass valve, attached to the transmission and originally a 924 part, failed. Apparently it had been leaking for years but not enough to drip on the floor. After it was replaced my temp stays on the left side of the eight. Don't know if this part is for Tips only but suspect it has something to do with trans cooling.
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Old 05-01-2015, 09:28 PM   #6
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I am having this same issue right now. Anyone have the part number for the sensor to be changed?
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Old 05-01-2015, 09:57 PM   #7
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Antny, I sent you the wrong one in the text...
Figure 1 here I think.
Porsche Boxster Engine Sensor Replacement - 986 / 987 (1997-08) - Pelican Parts Technical Article

The engine intake AIR temp sensor is: 996-606-113-00
Oil temp and level sensor is: 996.606.150.00
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Old 05-02-2015, 07:01 AM   #8
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Just another reason this board is imperative for Boxster owners...

Thx for sharing all the good info here!

Mike
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Old 05-02-2015, 08:15 PM   #9
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Thanks Jon. I did get a bosch sensor to replace it. I ordered a relay and sensor and now I know I need to order a new fan. Dang those wasp mud nests. Now I need to find a how to replace that darn fan.
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Old 05-08-2015, 05:10 AM   #10
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apologize for hijacking this thread but i really need your input!

2000 2.7L manual, 113k miles.

i had the same issue where the temp would go almost over the zero during spirited driving or sometimes just on hot days during slow city driving.

this is as high as it ever got (pushing it through artificial corners in miami):

20150414_225050_zpsp2h8mimj.jpg Photo by tita_cristian | Photobucket

as soon as i drive at highway speeds it cools down right away. even if i stand still and i accelerate a bit in neutral it stars to cool down. i understand thats because the fan is kicking in on second speed and i can see the needle go down.

i just replaced the engine bay sensor but nothing changed. engine bay fan is working i checked. i cleaned the radiators two weeks ago too.



my mechanic is telling me this is not that bad especially in Florida and thats how it works but then there's a lot of people who say the needle should be vertical right between the 8 and the 0. Manual says the same but that it could go higher if the engine is under load.

he suggests that if i want it to run cooler i should upgrade to a 996 (or maybe i got that wrong but anyway a slightly better pump..) water pump and i should get the bigger oil cooler. that should keep it nice and cool.


what do you guys think? should i live with it or go for the upgrade?
theres not a day that i dont do some spirited driving and plan on taking this thing to the mountains soon and putting it through its paces. i dont want to have to worry about overheating..

coolant was serviced a year ago and water pump replaced as well (not thermostat) so its not really time to do that kind of maintenance.
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Old 05-08-2015, 05:51 AM   #11
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Originally Posted by CrisZenithBlue View Post
apologize for hijacking this thread but i really need your input!

2000 2.7L manual, 113k miles.

i had the same issue where the temp would go almost over the zero during spirited driving or sometimes just on hot days during slow city driving.

this is as high as it ever got (pushing it through artificial corners in miami):

20150414_225050_zpsp2h8mimj.jpg Photo by tita_cristian | Photobucket

as soon as i drive at highway speeds it cools down right away. even if i stand still and i accelerate a bit in neutral it stars to cool down. i understand thats because the fan is kicking in on second speed and i can see the needle go down.

i just replaced the engine bay sensor but nothing changed. engine bay fan is working i checked. i cleaned the radiators two weeks ago too.



my mechanic is telling me this is not that bad especially in Florida and thats how it works but then there's a lot of people who say the needle should be vertical right between the 8 and the 0. Manual says the same but that it could go higher if the engine is under load.

he suggests that if i want it to run cooler i should upgrade to a 996 (or maybe i got that wrong but anyway a slightly better pump..) water pump and i should get the bigger oil cooler. that should keep it nice and cool.


what do you guys think? should i live with it or go for the upgrade?
theres not a day that i dont do some spirited driving and plan on taking this thing to the mountains soon and putting it through its paces. i dont want to have to worry about overheating..

coolant was serviced a year ago and water pump replaced as well (not thermostat) so its not really time to do that kind of maintenance.
the larger oil cooler is an excellent suggestion, one of the best moves for the money. I would also switch to a 160F stat.
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Old 05-08-2015, 06:14 AM   #12
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good point! i see they go for about 200 new but no reason why i couldnt get it used right? i would get new o-rings of course.

should i get the one for the S model? i think that is the typical upgrade as its bigger.
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Old 05-08-2015, 06:21 AM   #13
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good point! i see they go for about 200 new but no reason why i couldnt get it used right? i would get new o-rings of course.

should i get the one for the S model? i think that is the typical upgrade as its bigger.
Yes, get the "S" model, they are about twice the size:

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Old 05-08-2015, 07:38 AM   #14
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Just want to make sure I understand correctly...

My car sometimes behaves like this too - it creeps a little beyond the "0" mark during hot days and only during slow city driving, no warning lights, no other indications come on. As soon as I start driving, it returns to the right point sitting on the "8" I believe. Is this a sign of over heating or thermostat malfunction, what are we saying here? Could this behavior above result in damage to my engine or other components?

What does the 160 thermostat do? I presume it enables the fan to cut in earlier to keep the engine cooler?

Please advise. Thanks.


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Originally Posted by JFP in PA View Post
the larger oil cooler is an excellent suggestion, one of the best moves for the money. I would also switch to a 160F stat.
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Old 05-08-2015, 07:01 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by JFP in PA View Post
If something was wrong with the temp sensor, and it was acting up electrically, it could affect other things in the same circuit, like the already questionable dash display accuracy.

Just another reason to not trust the dash gauge...........
Could it mean the engine compartment fan is just not coming on when it should due the faulty sensor? The result being a higher steady state temp.
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Old 05-08-2015, 07:06 PM   #16
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That is possible. I finally swapped mine out today and it now kicks on. I think I will not worry about it as long s I doesn't climb past the 0. Seems like a lot of other people have this same problem.
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Old 05-08-2015, 08:19 PM   #17
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People seem confused when they put in a 160 thermostat and the car doesn't run cooler. I guess the visual is that the radiator system had infinite cooling capacity and that lowering the thermostat opening temp would lower the running temperature.

Not the case at all. Do a search and you'll see that the back sides of the radiators get clogged with road debris. If they are plugged up then it wouldn't matter if you ran with no thermostat at all.

I just replaced my oil cooler and it is the larger style like in the picture in this thread. I would suggest that you NEVER buy a used oil cooler. Most of the time a used oil cooler came from a failed engine. One look up inside and you'll see lots of places for metal debris to hide, waiting to score up the inside of your engine - the very reason i chose to replace mine.
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Old 05-08-2015, 08:55 PM   #18
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No Thermostat

It will actually run hotter...the water needs to be slowed down by the thermostat to have time to cool down in the radiators
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Old 05-09-2015, 11:58 AM   #19
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People seem confused when they put in a 160 thermostat and the car doesn't run cooler. I guess the visual is that the radiator system had infinite cooling capacity and that lowering the thermostat opening temp would lower the running temperature.

Not the case at all. Do a search and you'll see that the back sides of the radiators get clogged with road debris. If they are plugged up then it wouldn't matter if you ran with no thermostat at all.

I just replaced my oil cooler and it is the larger style like in the picture in this thread. I would suggest that you NEVER buy a used oil cooler. Most of the time a used oil cooler came from a failed engine. One look up inside and you'll see lots of places for metal debris to hide, waiting to score up the inside of your engine - the very reason i chose to replace mine.

Did the bigger oil cooler make any difference temperature wise?
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Old 05-09-2015, 12:07 PM   #20
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Did the bigger oil cooler make any difference temperature wise?
Too many variables to tell for sure since I just went through a complete tear down, but yesterday I spent two hours in complete crap traffic in what amounts to a heat wave in the PNW. Since the engine is unproven I was paranoid and fixated in any indications that things weren't going as well add I hoped.

My fears were unfounded. Temp went back and forth between the 8 and 0 depending on how much I was sitting idle.
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