11-02-2014, 09:14 PM
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#1
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Motorist & Coffee Drinker
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Oklahoma
Posts: 3,915
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A Little Scoring #2 Rod
As I started to pull the wiring harness off my old engine to put on my replacement, I think I found the problem. Looking in the inspection hole for the #2 rod I can clearly see some scoring on the surface:
I don't think that I'll be rebuilding that one, but it will make a good practice engine for the IMSB and chain guides.
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11-03-2014, 01:30 AM
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#2
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Engine Surgeon
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Cleveland GA USA
Posts: 2,425
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That's a lot of scoring! The rod bearing is melted onto the crankshaft, classic rod bolt breakage, too.
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IMS Solution/ Faultless Tool Inventor
US Patent 8,992,089 &
US Patent 9,416,697
Developer of The IMS Retrofit Procedure- M96/ M97 Specialist
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11-03-2014, 02:19 AM
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#3
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I am my own mechanic....
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Salt Lake City, UT
Posts: 3,432
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I'm still thinking wiring harness. I can see it's unplugged, just like you suspected.
If Flex Seal can stop a boat with a screen door for a bottom from sinking, it may just fix this too. Beat that inside part back inside, pour in some Slick-50, and seal that hole. Just like some toothpaste is supposed to re-grow tooth enamel, your engine can self-heal and grow a new rod.
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'04 Boxster S 50 Jahre 550 Spyder Anniversary Special Edition, 851 of 1953, 6-sp, IMS/RMS, GT Metallic silver, cocoa brown leather SOLD to member Broken Linkage.
'08 VW Touareg T-3 wife's car
'13 F150 Super Crew long bed 4x4 w/ Ego Boost
Last edited by Timco; 11-03-2014 at 02:21 AM.
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11-03-2014, 03:45 AM
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#4
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Cincinnati, Ohio
Posts: 373
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It should buff out with a little elbow grease!
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11-03-2014, 05:46 AM
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#5
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Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Eastern NC
Posts: 701
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I think you should clean up the edges on the inspection hole. They look a little rough.
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11-03-2014, 06:33 AM
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#6
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Track rat
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Southern ID
Posts: 3,701
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Van914
It should buff out with a little elbow grease!
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+1
Downshift over-rev?
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2009 Cayman 2.9L PDK (with a few tweaks)
PCA-GPX Chief Driving Instructor-Ret.
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11-03-2014, 12:53 PM
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#7
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Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Tacoma
Posts: 429
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You hooked me there. I was thinking "there's an inspection hole? I don't recall seeing that." Then I realized what I was looking at. Day-um.
I was going to joke that you might be able to save that knock sensor but it would appear that even that is a bit beat up.
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11-03-2014, 02:16 PM
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#8
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2009
Posts: 1,466
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As a serious comment. The rod are fractured/split the end appears to be semi polished, meaning your rod bolt were coming loose. Was there any knock or other noise before the failure? Just curious.
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2003 Black 986. modified for Advanced level HPDE and open track days.
* 3.6L LN block, 06 heads, Carrillo H rods, IDP with 987 intake, Oil mods, LN IMS. * Spec II Clutch, 3.2L S Spec P-P FW. * D2 shocks, GT3 arms & and links, Spacers front and rear * Weight reduced, No carpet, AC deleted, Remote PS pump, PS pump deleted. Recaro Pole position seats, Brey crouse ext. 5 point harness, NHP sport exhaust
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11-03-2014, 03:27 PM
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#9
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Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Tacoma
Posts: 429
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I'm wondering how far that car traveled with the rod bearing stuck to the crank. That had to sound awful.
Did they just install rear speakers and keep going?
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11-03-2014, 03:31 PM
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#10
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Certified Boxster Addict
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 7,669
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JB Weld should fix it right up!
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1999 996 C2 - sold - bought back - sold for more
1997 Spec Boxster BSR #254
1979 911 SC
POC Licensed DE/TT Instructor
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11-03-2014, 03:32 PM
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#11
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: O.C. CA
Posts: 3,709
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Porsche M96 oem rod bolts. Accept a substitute!
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OE engine rebuilt,3.6 litre LN Engineering billet sleeves,triple row IMSB,LN rods. Deep sump oil pan with DT40 oil.
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11-03-2014, 03:33 PM
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#12
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Motorist & Coffee Drinker
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Oklahoma
Posts: 3,915
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jsceash
As a serious comment. The rod are fractured/split the end appears to be semi polished, meaning your rod bolt were coming loose. Was there any knock or other noise before the failure? Just curious.
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Unfortunately I don't know any history of the car. I got it as salvage and it already had the problem. I expect that I made it a little bit worse when I ran it twice for about 30 seconds. It actually ran on 5 cylinders until I quit giving it gas. Lots of smoke and an expensive sounding rattle.
I'll post some followup pics here later this week when I open it further. I'm curious about the crank and head.
Timco: I thought about Flex Seal and Slick-50, but I'll probably just spray some triple expanding foam inside to stop things from rattling, then sell it as 'rebuilt' on Craigslist.
Last edited by 78F350; 11-03-2014 at 04:11 PM.
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