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Old 04-04-2014, 04:01 PM   #1
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Triple Square Clearance Issues on 6 Speed

I bought the Pelican 10mm triple square tool in anticipation of using it to remove my 2000S 6 speed trans, but the tool is way too long and hits the trans case so there is no real way to seat it properly or turn it. Anyone have any ideas on an alternate tool that works? I have thought about cutting this one down and using a 13mm socket and a swivel. I'm open to any other methods.

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Old 04-04-2014, 04:17 PM   #2
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Some get the raw bit, cut it down, then slip a 10mm box wrench over it.

Snap-on makes a very short stubby version for their triple squares, under the budget "Blue Point" label. I got one for the 16mm 5 speed drain plug. Try their website - shipping is free. Price for the 10mm is $8.50. Socket Driver, Metric, Triple Square, Stubby XZN, Blue-Point, 10mm
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Old 04-04-2014, 04:19 PM   #3
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Yes, cut the bit and do this:
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Old 04-04-2014, 04:23 PM   #4
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Ok, I can do the cut and box end wrench routine, but how do you torque it properly when you go to reinstall?
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Old 04-04-2014, 04:27 PM   #5
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That particular bolt does not have to be too tight. I have read where some members replaced with a regular bolt… Just a thought.
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Old 04-04-2014, 04:29 PM   #6
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Pull on the wrench really hard. Sometimes you just gotta do what you gotta.do.
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Old 04-04-2014, 04:37 PM   #7
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And if I remember correctly it was a 11mm wrench on that bit... Make sure you have that size.
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Old 04-04-2014, 04:54 PM   #8
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Ok, I can do the cut and box end wrench routine, but how do you torque it properly when you go to reinstall?
Well....you could slip a crowfoot onto it with your torque wrench, and lower the setting a bit. Torque is only 33 ft. lbs. IIRC.
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Old 04-04-2014, 05:49 PM   #9
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Pull on the wrench really hard. Sometimes you just gotta do what you gotta.do.
das is de procedure un der factorie
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Old 04-04-2014, 06:13 PM   #10
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That particular bolt does not have to be too tight. I have read where some members replaced with a regular bolt… Just a thought.
Two weeks ago I removed my gearbox and after a searching for the proper tool, cutting it to size so would fit properly and everything, just to find out that the dealer that had replaced the crank seal (under warranty) had left this bolt finger tight... LOL

I will replace it with a bolt with the same head as the all the ones...

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Old 04-04-2014, 07:01 PM   #11
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You could do the math and use a fish scale for the pull.

Say your wrench was 12 inches long, then pull on it to 33 lbs at the end, and you will have torqued it to 33 ft/lbs.

easy peasey!

Ie 8" wrench would be 12/8 x 33= 49.5lbs of pull at the end of the wrench and agin you have 33ft/lbs of torque
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Old 04-05-2014, 05:14 AM   #12
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omg... science. it is too much. Gut n tight for me. but thanks for the knowledge!
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Old 04-05-2014, 06:46 AM   #13
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You could do the math and use a fish scale for the pull.

Say your wrench was 12 inches long, then pull on it to 33 lbs at the end, and you will have torqued it to 33 ft/lbs.

easy peasey!

Ie 8" wrench would be 12/8 x 33= 49.5lbs of pull at the end of the wrench and agin you have 33ft/lbs of torque
this goes in my handy tips book!
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Old 04-05-2014, 07:24 AM   #14
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And if I remember correctly it was a 11mm wrench on that bit... Make sure you have that size.
Mine happens to be a 13mm.
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Old 04-05-2014, 09:47 AM   #15
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Yep, that worked. It was torqued quite a bit, or maybe it just seemed that way because I was using a wrench instead of an 18 inch breaker bar. The trans and clutch are now off and I'm about to research methods of locking the flywheel for bolt removal. I also found that I only have one guide sleeve, so I need to see how many are missing and make another parts order.

Thanks for the help, everyone!
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Old 04-05-2014, 11:04 AM   #16
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That particular bolt does not have to be too tight. I have read where some members replaced with a regular bolt… Just a thought.
ah now and spoil the fun for the next guy?
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Old 04-05-2014, 02:50 PM   #17
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Mine happens to be a 13mm.
I have this same one. I cut mine off with a die Grinder right below the D in K-D
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Old 04-05-2014, 05:09 PM   #18
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Yep, that worked. It was torqued quite a bit, or maybe it just seemed that way because I was using a wrench instead of an 18 inch breaker bar. The trans and clutch are now off and I'm about to research methods of locking the flywheel for bolt removal. I also found that I only have one guide sleeve, so I need to see how many are missing and make another parts order.

Thanks for the help, everyone!
Locking the flywheel? Get yourself a 6" piece of steel bar and drill a small hole at one end (large enough to go over one of the pins on the flywheel) and another hole at the other end (large enough to insert one of the transmission bolts through it). Use one of the transmission bolts to anchor the bar (make sure it is threaded well into the motor) and slide the other end of the bar over one of the pins on the flywheel.
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Old 04-05-2014, 06:05 PM   #19
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Thanks, I did that except I used .125 aluminum because that's what I had. I also used one of the clutch housing screws because it seemed like it could slip off the pins. It worked great, but boy it took a lot of muscle to get the flywheel bolts off.

Now I'm trying to decipher the LN instructions as to which cam plug to remove. Also whether to just loosen or remove the tensioners.
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Old 04-06-2014, 07:31 AM   #20
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Front, passenger side:



I removed the tensioners.
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