IMSB: what else should be done at same time?

[John Bergen]

Took my 2000 S in for an oil change and found the dreaded metallic fragments in the oil filter, thankfully before the bearing self destructed. Will have the LN Engineering ceramic bearing installed. In addition to clutch replacement (car has 74K miles) what else should be done at same time? I assume throw out bearing, how about the throw out bearing guide tube? How about transmission mounts? Rear main seal? (Is this the same as the "transmission seal"?) Anything else? Thanks!

[Jake Raby]

Our first level package includes IMSB, RMS and clutch kit.

That said, if you already have material laden oil, the IMS Retrofit procedure changes, else the replacement bearing, and the rest of the engine could become compromised at a later date.
See this link.
Bearing already failing?

[Timco]

Check oil pan for pieces. The bearing condition when pulled (special procedure) will tell you what you lost or if the issue is chain guides related. IMS isn't the only possible source.

Particles in filter magnetic?

Reinstall magnetic oil plug.

[John Bergen]

Good advice, thanks!

[Paul]

The rear main seal and transmission input shaft seal are different parts. The rear main seal is best installed using the factory special tool.

[IMG][/IMG]

[rp17]

Originally Posted by That said, if you already have material laden oil, the IMS Retrofit procedure changes, else the replacement bearing, and the rest of the engine could become compromised at a later date.
See this link.
[url=http://imsretrofit.com/bearing-already-failing/

Bearing already failing?[/url]

Jake is making a good point here. I would look into what it takes to get all of the flakes out of the oil, and consider a sealed bearing from Pelican or a sealed ceramic.

[Jake Raby]

Originally Posted by rp17

Jake is making a good point here. I would look into what it takes to get all of the flakes out of the oil, and consider a sealed bearing from Pelican or a sealed ceramic.

The debris is harmful to much more than just the replacement IMSB, it will impact every internally lubricated component within the engine if operated long enough.

Remember, the stock oil filter bypass is horrible and at start up it bypasses oil around the filter and straight to the bearings (especially in cold temperatures), when it becomes clogged with debris even more oil is bypassing the filter. When carrying out an IMSR its wise to replace the filter housing, or add the LN Spin On Filter Adaptor, to fully filter all the oil without the chances of bypassed oil.

We find over half the filter housings that we see have weakened bypass springs, which allows more bypassed oil to be routed around the filter.

Its the little things that no one thinks about, because they haven't taken the time to develop the solutions themselves.

[Jamesp]

Originally Posted by Jake Raby

The debris is harmful to much more than just the replacement IMSB, it will impact every internally lubricated component within the engine if operated long enough.

Remember, the stock oil filter bypass is horrible and at start up it bypasses oil around the filter and straight to the bearings (especially in cold temperatures), when it becomes clogged with debris even more oil is bypassing the filter. When carrying out an IMSR its wise to replace the filter housing, or add the LN Spin On Filter Adaptor, to fully filter all the oil without the chances of bypassed oil.

We find over half the filter housings that we see have weakened bypass springs, which allows more bypassed oil to be routed around the filter.

Its the little things that no one thinks about, because they haven't taken the time to develop the solutions themselves.

Jake speaks the truth. Any filings are your enemy. I strapped rare earth magnets around the outside of my oil filter housing. If it's ferrous and in the filter, it not going anywhere but to the magnets. The PP bearing is not sealed. The rest of the kit is worth it. I chose a Nachi sealed bearing to supplement the PP kit for what that's worth. In any event, if you have ferrous metal in the engine you have to get it out.

[John Bergen]

A question for Jake. My car being an early 2000 S model might have a double or single row bearing. I intend to install the LN ceramic bearing. How do I know if I will get the single or dual row type? Even if I have the single row stock bearing I'd want the dual row ceramic type. Thanks!

[Jake Raby]

Originally Posted by John Bergen

A question for Jake. My car being an early 2000 S model might have a double or single row bearing. I intend to install the LN ceramic bearing. How do I know if I will get the single or dual row type? Even if I have the single row stock bearing I'd want the dual row ceramic type. Thanks!

Teardown and visual inspection are required. No other way to know. Sorry.

[John Bergen]

Jake, sorry, I wasn't clear. Assuming that the existing bearing is determined to be a single row type, when my mechanic orders the LN ceramic bearing will he receive a single or double row type? I understand from the LN website that you can now install a double row ceramic bearing even if the original stock bearing was a single row. Is LN still selling single rows or have they converted everything to double rows? Thanks!

[Jake Raby]

He will receive the type that he orders.

The dual row bearing that fits a single row shaft is the Single Row Pro, which is a completely different bearing, requiring my Faultless tool to install. Read these pages explicitly and all of your questions will be answered:
Problem: IMS Failure. Solution: IMS Retrofit

Of course, if you have to inform the person doing this work of these things; that person is NOT the person that should be chosen to do the work.

The classic single row is still available and is not being superseded by the single row pro, as not everyone will be willing to purchase my faultless installation tool (749.00) thats required to install the pro kit.

Of course, we stopped selling these things direct long ago, and so did LN. They are available from our distributors.