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Old 12-24-2013, 10:07 AM   #1
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You have to loosen the lower control arm bolt (not remove), and lean on the arm to lower and swing out the strut. It's very close, so pad the wheel well lip! I recently did a complete ROW M030 retrofit, so this is from experience. When you're ready to tighten, there are pointer marks on the control arm and subframe-jack under the strut till the marks align, then torque the bolt.
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Old 12-24-2013, 11:42 AM   #2
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Originally Posted by navair View Post
You have to loosen the lower control arm bolt (not remove), and lean on the arm to lower and swing out the strut. It's very close, so pad the wheel well lip! I recently did a complete ROW M030 retrofit, so this is from experience. When you're ready to tighten, there are pointer marks on the control arm and subframe-jack under the strut till the marks align, then torque the bolt.
This is the correct method to install . you will still have to push the arm down manually after loosening the bolts. no worries because you will need an alignment after the install is complete . the rear is a little more difficult .
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Old 12-24-2013, 12:31 PM   #3
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Originally Posted by jacabean View Post
This is the correct method to install . you will still have to push the arm down manually after loosening the bolts. no worries because you will need an alignment after the install is complete . the rear is a little more difficult .
I will need an alignment and corner balance.
After how long should I go get the alignment?
The new suspension must settle before I get it aligned?
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Old 12-24-2013, 01:20 PM   #4
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Originally Posted by Yellow986S View Post
I will need an alignment and corner balance.
After how long should I go get the alignment?
The new suspension must settle before I get it aligned?
It should take about a week or two for it to settle.

I went with springs, and used this guide:
Boxster Hacks and Instructions
Very useful!

It's not exactly coilover but it may have some useful pictures/instructions.
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Old 12-24-2013, 12:30 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by navair View Post
You have to loosen the lower control arm bolt (not remove), and lean on the arm to lower and swing out the strut. It's very close, so pad the wheel well lip! I recently did a complete ROW M030 retrofit, so this is from experience. When you're ready to tighten, there are pointer marks on the control arm and subframe-jack under the strut till the marks align, then torque the bolt.
When I am ready to tighten the lower control arm bolt and torque it the car needs to be on level ground with the full weight of the car compressing the suspension right?
So how would I tighten the bolt if I cannot crawl under and fit?
I was thinking about placing 2x4s under all 4 wheels.
Thx for the tips and what is the best way to go about removing the rear shock?
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Old 12-24-2013, 02:29 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by Yellow986S View Post
When I am ready to tighten the lower control arm bolt and torque it the car needs to be on level ground with the full weight of the car compressing the suspension right?
So how would I tighten the bolt if I cannot crawl under and fit?
I was thinking about placing 2x4s under all 4 wheels.
Thx for the tips and what is the best way to go about removing the rear shock?
You are right - how do you tighten the suspension bolts with the car lowered on its wheels and not enough room underneath?
2x4's will work OK but still tight to use a torque wrench. I didn't have any 2x4's handy when I was installing my PSS9's and it was Sunday evening. So when everything was assembled but not tightend up, I jacked the individual wheel up untill the suspension was loaded (simulating the cars weight was on the suspension) and then tightend up the suspension bolts.
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Old 12-25-2013, 10:48 AM   #7
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You are right - how do you tighten the suspension bolts with the car lowered on its wheels and not enough room underneath?
I would put the car on ramps, so you can have a little extra room

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