Putting in Coilovers need help!
 

I have already removed the sway bar drop link and the 3 nuts holding the top mount of the shock.

Are there any other bolts or nuts I need to loosen to be able to push down on the wishbone and hub so I can slide the shock out?

Pelican says that you should remove this bolt but I would rather not if I don't have to.
http://986forum.com/forums/uploads01...1387769287.jpg

Thanks

The reason why I don't want to remove this is because it will create more work, unless it is necessary then I will have to do it.

You can't retighten this bolt until the car's tires are back on level ground and the suspension is fully loaded.

You have to loosen the lower control arm bolt (not remove), and lean on the arm to lower and swing out the strut. It's very close, so pad the wheel well lip! I recently did a complete ROW M030 retrofit, so this is from experience. When you're ready to tighten, there are pointer marks on the control arm and subframe-jack under the strut till the marks align, then torque the bolt.

This is the correct method to install . you will still have to push the arm down manually after loosening the bolts. no worries because you will need an alignment after the install is complete . the rear is a little more difficult .

When I am ready to tighten the lower control arm bolt and torque it the car needs to be on level ground with the full weight of the car compressing the suspension right?
So how would I tighten the bolt if I cannot crawl under and fit?
I was thinking about placing 2x4s under all 4 wheels.
Thx for the tips and what is the best way to go about removing the rear shock?

I will need an alignment and corner balance.
After how long should I go get the alignment?
The new suspension must settle before I get it aligned?

It should take about a week or two for it to settle.

I went with springs, and used this guide:
Boxster Hacks and Instructions
Very useful!

It's not exactly coilover but it may have some useful pictures/instructions.

I used a spring compressor on the front and rear to compress everything enough to roll the strut out from under the fenders.

The rear is a royal PITA.

The good news is that coilovers go back in much easier as you can wait until they are in place to raise the spring collar.

If you want to do it right, set the desired ride height first using the spring collars, then get final adjustment of corner weights at a good race shop before getting alignment.

Personally, I wouldn't go to all this trouble without putting in camber plates or GT3lower arms in the front to fix the camber problems this car has.

You are right - how do you tighten the suspension bolts with the car lowered on its wheels and not enough room underneath?
2x4's will work OK but still tight to use a torque wrench. I didn't have any 2x4's handy when I was installing my PSS9's and it was Sunday evening. So when everything was assembled but not tightend up, I jacked the individual wheel up untill the suspension was loaded (simulating the cars weight was on the suspension) and then tightend up the suspension bolts.

I would put the car on ramps, so you can have a little extra room

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