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Old 05-15-2013, 12:13 PM   #1
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How well do you trust the mechanic who did your PPI? Personally, I think the rad flush is a make-work on these cars unless there is a need to replace the waterpump (see the related thread below). If they could see that it was sitting, why? Were the brake calipers seized? Were there signs of corrosion on various parts from lack of use? If so, what parts?

Are there any signs of oil leaks? If none, was it checked after a good, hard run? If not, it should have been.

You say the owner claims to have done yearly oil changes - does he have bills for the oil and filters? If not, how can you confirm this. Did the PPI include an oil change? If not, it should have. If so, what did the oil look like? If not like new, I don't believe the owner about having done the required annual oil changes in spite of such low mileage. Were there metal or other particles in the oil/oil filter after it was cut open? If the mechanic did not cut open the filter, shame on him.

Did he do a compression test? Did he do a drip-down test? Both of these are important on any car, but especially one that has been sitting apart from 250 miles a year and which may have had old oil (which often contains water from condensation after long periods of sitting).

If the owner has owned the car for that many years, what records does he have for servicing the car? If none, again I'd be nervous. If so, you can use that to check his mileage claims. It will also be worthwhile in order to see if any of the parts that often start to fail at 60,000 plus miles were replaced. E.g, the waterpump, A/O/S (air oil separator), MAF (mass airflow sensor), clutch, coolant expansion tank, spark plug tubes and coils, ignition switch, suspension arms, etc.

If he has no records, is he prepared to tell you where it was serviced over the years so that you can check to see if they have records on file. If not, why not?

The car may be a great buy, but I would certainly want more information about the car than the owner seems to have given you, especially if he has owned it that long. I would also want to have a comprehensive PPI by a trusted Porsche mechanic who is not connected with the seller.
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Old 05-15-2013, 01:05 PM   #2
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Good questions..

The shop was the largest in the area that specialized in all Porsche models. The tech was the senior Porsche specialist who has been working on new and vintage Porsches for 20+ years. An oil change was completed, the oil looked good, and they found no metal fragments when cutting the oil filter open. He also mentioned they didn't hear any unusual noises indicitive of the IMS/RMS issues.

They did drive the car but not extensively. No oil leaks found. No compression test done either. No mention of corrosion or seizing. The carfax did verify his statements about the number of miles driven. It appears the original owner in Cali put all the miles on the car, but I don't have any records to verify what he did or didn't do.

The seller said he may have the receipts for the oil changes and will check. He has only put 7000 miles on the car since he bought it in 2002 from the original owner, no service history, but it isn't his first Porsche and he doesn't seem like the average dumb dumb owner.


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Originally Posted by southernstar View Post
How well do you trust the mechanic who did your PPI? Personally, I think the rad flush is a make-work on these cars unless there is a need to replace the waterpump (see the related thread below). If they could see that it was sitting, why? Were the brake calipers seized? Were there signs of corrosion on various parts from lack of use? If so, what parts?

Are there any signs of oil leaks? If none, was it checked after a good, hard run? If not, it should have been.

You say the owner claims to have done yearly oil changes - does he have bills for the oil and filters? If not, how can you confirm this. Did the PPI include an oil change? If not, it should have. If so, what did the oil look like? If not like new, I don't believe the owner about having done the required annual oil changes in spite of such low mileage. Were there metal or other particles in the oil/oil filter after it was cut open? If the mechanic did not cut open the filter, shame on him.

Did he do a compression test? Did he do a drip-down test? Both of these are important on any car, but especially one that has been sitting apart from 250 miles a year and which may have had old oil (which often contains water from condensation after long periods of sitting).

If the owner has owned the car for that many years, what records does he have for servicing the car? If none, again I'd be nervous. If so, you can use that to check his mileage claims. It will also be worthwhile in order to see if any of the parts that often start to fail at 60,000 plus miles were replaced. E.g, the waterpump, A/O/S (air oil separator), MAF (mass airflow sensor), clutch, coolant expansion tank, spark plug tubes and coils, ignition switch, suspension arms, etc.

If he has no records, is he prepared to tell you where it was serviced over the years so that you can check to see if they have records on file. If not, why not?

The car may be a great buy, but I would certainly want more information about the car than the owner seems to have given you, especially if he has owned it that long. I would also want to have a comprehensive PPI by a trusted Porsche mechanic who is not connected with the seller.

Last edited by black_falcon; 05-15-2013 at 07:09 PM.
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Old 05-15-2013, 01:38 PM   #3
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The car looks good, runs and idles smooth, drives nice, no leaks, passes PPI with clean oil, clean carfax, what's not to like? Having it sitting around for 6 years is less than ideal but it's 15 yrs old and only $9K. Not much risk exposure really so I would probably buy it.

I might be more uncomfortable if I were shelling out $70K for a clean used GT3 but I see no reason to pee in ones pants over a 15 yr old $9K car. It looks like a lot of car for $9k.
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Old 05-15-2013, 01:38 PM   #4
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My $.02 is that yearly oil changes mean little to nothing if the oil has 1500 miles on it. Again, what makes it look like it's been sitting? Check for leaks, examine all the rubber (belt, hoses, bushings, CV Boots, mounts, and seals). Also pull the trunk carpet and look for signs of coolant stains.

I also second Southernstar's opinion that a coolant flush is make work.
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Old 05-16-2013, 07:11 AM   #5
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Originally Posted by shadrach74 View Post
I also second Southernstar's opinion that a coolant flush is make work.
I might disagree with that in this case. there were two owners, who knows if owner #1 mixed/topped ordinary coolant with the long lasting and owner #2 did nothing about it for all those subsequent years. Once these mix the longevity of the anti-corrosion elements are compromised. Best way to know for sure is to reboot with a fresh fill (of the right coolant and use only that type going forward). BUT if you're going to flush, do it correctly, zero air in the system or just replace the coolant tank because if its not burped right that probably by now brittle plastic tank is going to split and spill that $400 flush right onto the street. No need to pay for that twice. Maybe do the hoses too given that this was a lazy car.
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Last edited by Perfectlap; 05-16-2013 at 07:14 AM.
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Old 05-15-2013, 07:23 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by black_falcon View Post
He also mentioned they didn't hear any unusual noises indicitive of the IMS/RMS issues.

RMS makes no sound. It's just a minor oil seal leak that is typical in these cars. Harmless, for the most part, if you keep your eye on it.

The IMS is different. But, then again if you hear the marbles it's already too late...


How old are the tires? If they are 6 years old or older, they are probably dry rotted. You will need to change the brake fluid and filters immediately too.

I'd buy the car. Just go into it with your eyes open.



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Old 05-15-2013, 07:42 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by fatmike View Post
RMS makes no sound. It's just a minor oil seal leak that is typical in these cars. Harmless, for the most part, if you keep your eye on it.

The IMS is different. But, then again if you hear the marbles it's already too late...


How old are the tires? If they are 6 years old or older, they are probably dry rotted. You will need to change the brake fluid and filters immediately too.

I'd buy the car. Just go into it with your eyes open.

/
Oops I didn't mean to put RMS. But the tires are older and slightly cupped so straight away I'm going to put on new rubber, do a four wheel alignment, sway bar links and complete the 90k service. Then I'll be starting fresh with a car all caught up on maintenance.

Last edited by black_falcon; 05-15-2013 at 07:52 PM.
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