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Old 04-03-2013, 01:26 AM   #1
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You've most likely put in a new Throw Out Bearing, Have you replaced the Guide Tube?

Pelican Parts - Product Information: 996-116-087-01-M100

JFP would be the member I'd contact / PM if it were me.
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Old 04-03-2013, 03:13 AM   #2
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Originally Posted by coreseller View Post
You've most likely put in a new Throw Out Bearing, Have you replaced the Guide Tube?

Pelican Parts - Product Information: 996-116-087-01-M100

JFP would be the member I'd contact / PM if it were me.
+1

If the piston is pushing against the outer seal of the housing, then it is not traveling at the correct angle to the clutch arm.

Any wear on the tube for the release bearing will change the how the arm and piston move together, and if enough wear has occured (like from being used with a cracked/failed arm) then it could absolutely cause your issue.

Ufortunately, if you replaced the clutch arm before, you know what it takes to replace the release bearing guide tube.

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Old 04-03-2013, 07:22 AM   #3
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Sam, when you put the slave in - did you leave the bleed nipple "open"?

Bentley says to install it and then bleed. I have heard some just push it in there against the pressure? I was able to get my slave in, unbled. There was NO pressure on the pedal, it would not even come off the floor, when it did it was erratic. Whether it is enough to break the seal or fork I don't know.

I ended up taking the slave out again. Opened the bleeder valve and, while being squirted by brake fluid, installed it in the "open" position and then bled all the bubbles out. It was a PITA but the pedal worked much better. Just a thought…
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Old 04-03-2013, 07:38 AM   #4
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I didn't replace the guide tube. It seemed fine. No appreciable wear and all the little ridges seemed fine. I just cleaned it really good, greased it, and assembled everything. That's a good thought tho... In this case, I'll just install the new slave and monitor it for leaks. If it start leaking again, I'll prob go back in and do the guide tube.
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Old 04-03-2013, 07:45 AM   #5
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Homeboy, the slave actually isn't really that big of deal (or I'm just getting pretty proficient at changing them). I just push it in against the piston pressure/spring pressure and click it into place on its boss. There's a ridge on the backside of its mounting boss that will hold it while u thread the 13mm head bolt in. In my case, the system is already depressurized as soon as I removed it.

Thanks for the tip tho.

What's funny is I can do a slave cylinder in about 10 minutes and that includes putting the car on jack stands and removing the left rear wheel. I should be on a race team pit crew... While everyone else is throwing new tires on and whatnot, I could be charging around doing slave cylinders. Lol
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Old 04-03-2013, 08:33 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by sam c. View Post
Homeboy, the slave actually isn't really that big of deal (or I'm just getting pretty proficient at changing them). I just push it in against the piston pressure/spring pressure and click it into place on its boss. There's a ridge on the backside of its mounting boss that will hold it while u thread the 13mm head bolt in. In my case, the system is already depressurized as soon as I removed it.

Thanks for the tip tho.

What's funny is I can do a slave cylinder in about 10 minutes and that includes putting the car on jack stands and removing the left rear wheel. I should be on a race team pit crew... While everyone else is throwing new tires on and whatnot, I could be charging around doing slave cylinders. Lol
Took me 4 hours to put mine back in. No joking. However, that was the first time I did it.
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Old 04-03-2013, 07:53 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sam c. View Post
I didn't replace the guide tube. It seemed fine. No appreciable wear and all the little ridges seemed fine. I just cleaned it really good, greased it, and assembled everything. That's a good thought tho... In this case, I'll just install the new slave and monitor it for leaks. If it start leaking again, I'll prob go back in and do the guide tube.
i don't remember any ridges on the guide tube.
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Old 04-03-2013, 08:02 AM   #8
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They're very shallow and run the length of the guide tube. Act as a keyway that fit into the TO bearing.
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Old 04-03-2013, 08:07 AM   #9
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You've most likely put in a new Throw Out Bearing, Have you replaced the Guide Tube?
Yep, new TO bearing, clutch, LWFW, ims bearing, UD pulley, thermostat, and a couple other things. I did discover 4 out 6 of my plug tubes are leaking so I need to go back in anyway.

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