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Old 03-29-2013, 07:47 AM   #1
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First Oil Change with oil pan drop

Getting ready for first oil change since I bought end of Sept 2012. Dealer had done it then. This will be roughly 5000 miles since last change. I plan on every 6 Month doing a change which is approx. every 5k miles.

!!! This is not a what type of oil is best thread !!!

I want to also drop the oil sump pan to do a visual, look for any debris in there. Get an idea if anything is getting chewed up.

Question is - are there things that may pop out or I should be careful to watch for do to gravity when I pull the pan down ?

I'm looking for Loctite 5900 50ml locally but it appears it has to be ordered. It's a pain that everything has to be ordered off the interweb. I'm to weak to go into the dealer.

The torque values for the pan (Deep sump project) about 11 Nm or 8 ft-lbs. Does that sound right? Surprised these values are not in the Bentley manual

The first, for the Boxster, I've done many on all my other cars. The hardest part are the unique tools and parts that need to be gathered the first time
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Old 03-29-2013, 08:24 AM   #2
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Pull the pan straight down so you don't damage the plastic baffle bolted to the pan. Inspect the rubber trap doors & 8 plastic pegs that they attach to. The pegs break very easily & if broken you need to buy a new baffle. Clean the pan sealing surface & the mating surface of the engine case till you are willing to eat off it. As long as its clean & nick free it seals pretty easily. I have used Ultra Grey sealant on the pan.
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Old 03-29-2013, 08:29 AM   #3
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for the cost, you may wish to throw one of these in there while you have the pan off:

Pelican Parts - Product Information: 997-107-243-EBSR-K

comes with the sealant.
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Old 03-29-2013, 09:30 AM   #4
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Don't get brake cleaner on the plastic or rubber parts!!!!! Use Loctite 5900 SPARINGLY to remount/seal the sump plate. Take your time.
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Old 03-29-2013, 11:11 AM   #5
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5900 has a working time of about 5 minutes. Dry fit it, do it again, and when you are sure you can get it up there with bolts started, dry fit one more time before putting any sealer onto the sump pan. If it hardens before you torque it down, an oil leak can occur.

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Old 03-29-2013, 11:49 AM   #6
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Get two long bolts that fit into the sump threads and cut the heads off the bolts. Screw them in by hand at opposite ends of the sump and use them as guide pins to mate the sump plate to the sump. You will get a perfect fit every time.

Less is more with the sealant! Use a tiny 1mm bead continuously all the way around the sump plate. Don't goober the sealant on because it can squeeze out and clog the oil pickup. I'd rather have a sump leak than an oiling failure.
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Old 03-29-2013, 01:05 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by san rensho View Post
Less is more with the sealant! Use a tiny 1mm bead continuously all the way around the sump plate. Don't goober the sealant on because it can squeeze out and clog the oil pickup.
+1 This is one case where less is the right amount. This is what excess sealant looks like in the oil pickup when it causes an engine failure.

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Old 03-29-2013, 05:25 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by san rensho View Post
Get two long bolts that fit into the sump threads and cut the heads off the bolts. Screw them in by hand at opposite ends of the sump and use them as guide pins to mate the sump plate to the sump. You will get a perfect fit every time.
GREAT tip!!!
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