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Old 03-10-2013, 01:17 AM   #1
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IMS bearing install

All the parts are in the shop and the car is torn apart so it looks like I'll be doing the IMS bearing either today or tomorrow. I've read through all the guides a few times but am still a little nervous. Does anyone have any last minute advice or pitfalls for a total Porsche noob like myself?

The bearing and install tool are currently sitting in the freezer and will likely get transfered into a cooler of dry ice just prior to insertion.

I've also seen where guys use dead blow hammers instead of something more solid which gives them fits.

Any suggestions?
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Old 03-10-2013, 04:35 AM   #2
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Hey guys, a couple more quick questions:

1) Why do we release the tensioners when doing the IMS bearing? Couldn't they just stay in place and keep all the timing components effectively locked together (or am I missing something)?

2) Where does everyone get the camshaft end covers to replace the old ones that get pulled out? I see them on ebay but for later model cars. I have a 99.
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Old 03-10-2013, 05:15 AM   #3
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Hello Sam.
You can get the cam plugs from pelican parts or your local dealer.
I believe it is nececery to remove the tension from the shaft in order to be able to remove the IMS cover, and keeping the shaft centered.
If there is tension on the chains, the shaft might move, and you can loos timing.
For some tips you can read about my expiriance here:
winter project
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Old 03-10-2013, 10:16 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sam c. View Post
Hey guys, a couple more quick questions:

1) Why do we release the tensioners when doing the IMS bearing? Couldn't they just stay in place and keep all the timing components effectively locked together (or am I missing something)?

2) Where does everyone get the camshaft end covers to replace the old ones that get pulled out? I see them on ebay but for later model cars. I have a 99.
Meir is correct it takes the tension off the IMS. Also very important is to lock the motor at top dead center. Looks like you are thinking that if you are looking for cam end caps. Good luck!
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Old 03-10-2013, 10:56 PM   #5
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Thanks guys and thank you Meir for that write up. I def have more confidence now than I did before reading your post.
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Old 03-11-2013, 06:54 PM   #6
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OK, I'm a little confused... I'm pretty sure I have a single row bearing but I don't have a clip. Wth?!? The clip should be obvious but its not there. Ideas or advice?
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Old 03-11-2013, 07:13 PM   #7
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I believe there were two types of clips, one that is obvious like mine was, pictured here:


The other not as obvious that you just pull the bearing out with the removal tool and the clip will break loose. I will see if I can locate the information on this type clip.
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Old 03-11-2013, 07:20 PM   #8
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See the paragraph that lists "Figure 86, 87, & 88" the last sentence in that paragraph says some of the double row bearings have an internal snap ring that will snap-out when you pull-out the bearing.

Pelican Technical Article: Boxster Intermediate Shaft Bearing Replacement and Upgrade (IMS) - 986 Boxster (1997-04) - 987 Boxster (2005-06)

Looks like you have a double row bearing Assembly.
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Old 03-11-2013, 07:52 PM   #9
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Also look at the same article posted by jäger, for the 2 two types of IMS covers. (figures 14&15)
Deep cover= single row, shalow cover= double row.
You can also compare the part number on the covers.

Last edited by Meir; 03-11-2013 at 07:56 PM.
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Old 03-11-2013, 09:43 PM   #10
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First I do apologize for over posting about something that's prob pretty straight forward to u guys that have done it a time or two.

What I found: a two row bearing without a clip. The bearing is in great shape but wasn't installed far enough into the shaft to see/install the c clip. Also, the tensioners on both sides looked the same. Different diameter threaded base but the tensioners themselves looked identical. I expected the driver side to have a spring like the one in other people's posts... is this normal? I expected a single row bearing and a spring on the DS tensioner since the car is a 99.
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Old 03-11-2013, 09:50 PM   #11
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Haha. Well, I didn't see your guys post but your info pretty much answered my questions.. I did a little reading and looking over the problem and ultimately decided that everything looked safe enough to forge ahead. Thanks for the posts tho and for filling in all my info gaps!

Last edited by sam c.; 03-11-2013 at 10:04 PM.
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Old 03-12-2013, 05:11 AM   #12
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If your car is a 99 you don't have a single row, you have a dual row. This explains why the retention clip is not visible as it is an internal lock that must be compromised to extract the bearing from the housing.
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Old 03-12-2013, 04:30 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sam c. View Post
First I do apologize for over posting about something that's prob pretty straight forward to u guys that have done it a time or two.

What I found: a two row bearing without a clip. The bearing is in great shape but wasn't installed far enough into the shaft to see/install the c clip. Also, the tensioners on both sides looked the same. Different diameter threaded base but the tensioners themselves looked identical. I expected the driver side to have a spring like the one in other people's posts... is this normal? I expected a single row bearing and a spring on the DS tensioner since the car is a 99.
sam,
Double check your tensioners, look at the head/top you should see a different ring count on them identifying the position they belong.
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Old 03-12-2013, 08:14 PM   #14
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Yeah, I kept them in separately labeled bags and the head sizes are different too so its not so much a problem as having them mixed up. I was just surprised to see them different then the ones Meir removed in his winter project thread. Pictured below are mine cleaned and ready to go back in. I see where a lot of guys are replacing these though... is there a test that can be performed on them to verify functionality?

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Old 03-12-2013, 08:17 PM   #15
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Meanwhile, I didn't get much time to work on it today, put here's what I did get accomplished..

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Old 03-12-2013, 08:26 PM   #16
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New bearing and spacer installed and timing all visually verified. I froze the **** out of it before installation and it tapped right into place. Also, to avoid the nut stuck on the shaft down inside the tool nightmare that someone on here endured, I used a tight fitting rubber bushing/donut down in the tool to hold it all together. Once done, I just pulled the tool off by hand without having to worry about trying to remove the nut or anything.
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