Water Pump Failure Process

[Gelbster]

If you find the impeller blades have broken off, try to find all the missing pieces.
One place to look is the oil/water heat exchanger on the top of the engine. The debris will plug it. You will need 2 new pairs of "O" rings.The other place to look is in the large hoses near the w/p. If you can not match up and account for all the pieces ,check back with us for more suggestions.

[911monty]

Originally Posted by Gelbster

If you find the impeller blades have broken off, try to find all the missing pieces.
One place to look is the oil/water heat exchanger on the top of the engine. The debris will plug it. You will need 2 new "O" rings.The other place to look is in the large hoses near the w/p. If you can not match up and account for all the pieces ,check back with us for more suggestions.

You will need 4 "O" rings. 2 for oil side and 2 for water side. They are different sizes.

[Duezzer]

I have a thought on these failures. I store my vehicle most winters for some time. I am thinking I will be removing the serpentine belt during these periods - wondering if the tension exerted on the one side of the bearing is what causes some of the failure issue - Thoughts?

[jb92563]

Steel bearings withstand 350,000 PSI and you belt may be tensioned to ~30 lbs exerting a pressure of perhaps 1000 lbs on a square inch of bearing.
No, removing the belt wont help the bearings at all.

In fact not having the belt on the engine will prevent you from starting the car up periodically, which is definitely good to help everything get some fresh lubrication throughout the winter.

You are much better off leaving the belt on and running the engine for a while (20+ minutes to allow the oil and radiator to get nice and hot) each month With the garage door wide open and your house door completely shut so you don't succumb to carbon monoxide poisoning.

[Calmg0d]

Well, I spoke too soon it appears. I posted earlier about the waterpump/thermostat replacement and all of it going very well; until today. I had thought I bled the system the way it was intended as yesterday and this am the needle was solid steady between the 1 & 8 in 180. Then at 1230 today driving back from lunch the car goes up to the far side of the 0. Checked the coolant and all was in the allowable ranges but after sitting for 4 hours I was about 3/4 of a gallon low. The gauge went back to normal for a bit and then it won't stop climbing now.

Did I not bleed it enough? I've been reading as much as I possibly can to see if I need to keep bleeding and I've found very little. Some say one and done; others say run with bleeder valve open for 3 days or more.

Can any of you chime in here?
Thanks for any help as you guys & girls have some phenomenal advice.
Cheers.