Do It Yourself Brake Pad Change?

[More]

One of my front Brake Pads is gone and with the amount of money I have spent recently on new wheels and tires + Registration I really can't afford another expense for a while.

It will be a lot cheaper for me to buy the pads and do it myself but is it a hard job for someone who has minimum mechanical experience?

[Spinnaker]

The hardest part will be jacking up the car and taking the wheels off, unless you have to do the rotors too.
Lots of DIY for this on many sites.

[jb92563]

Originally Posted by More

One of my front Brake Pads is gone and with the amount of money I have spent recently on new wheels and tires + Registration I really can't afford another expense for a while.

It will be a lot cheaper for me to buy the pads and do it myself but is it a hard job for someone who has minimum mechanical experience?

Replacing the brake pads is one of the easiest things you can do.

Tools needed are Lug wrench from the spare to remove the tire, and a screw driver
to carefully push the pads away from the rotor, and needle nose pliers to remove the pins that holds the brake pad retainers off.

Once the wheel is off its probably 10 minutes or less to replace the brake pads.

If they are worn down to the brake sensors you may need to replace them as well. which adds maybe 1 or 2 minutes to the task.

So easy your 12 year old could do it!!!!

[More]

I read something about flooding the brakes afterwards?
What's that about??

[jb92563]

Originally Posted by More

I read something about flooding the brakes afterwards?
What's that about??

Flushing the brake fluid is likely what you are referring to.

It basically bleeds the brakes until new brake fluid is in the lines.

I think the Manual says to flush every 3 years but racers do it much more often.

I use a "Power Bleeder" and it adds another couple minutes to the brake job.

I did a Youtube video to show how easy it is. You alternate brake fluid colors and it greatly simplifies the process.

Google "Brake Flush" and you will get plenty of hits.

The Boxster S has 2 bleed valves so you open one to do most of the flush and open the other for a second or 2 after and it will drain the old fluid as well.

Easy when using a Power Bleeder.

[More]

Is the flush %100 necessary?

[jb92563]

Originally Posted by More

Is the flush %100 necessary?

No, just every 3 years is fine, or if you have squishy brakes.

Brake fluid absorbs water which causes squishy brake feel, corrosion in the lines and pistons and the water lowers the boiling point which is dangerous when racing and really heating your brakes up.

[BruceH]

Originally Posted by More

Is the flush %100 necessary?

Several of us got together yesterday to flush ours. It was pretty obvious that mine had not been done in some time(I just bought it last summer). It would be worth it to do, just to know you have fresh fluid.

[PaulE]

Originally Posted by More

I read something about flooding the brakes afterwards?
What's that about??

If your pads are worn down and the brake fluid reservoir on the master cylinder has been topped up to compensate for the pad wear, when you push the caliper pistons back in to accommodate the new pads that will be much thicker, the extra brake fluid that will be going back into the reservoir may cause it to overflow, make a mess and possibly cause some paint damage (it did in the old days anyway). You need to keep and eye on the fluid level and maybe use a clean turkey baster to remove some from the reservoir if it gets up to the maximum full line. Not sure if any of the videos or links already posted mentioned the already. You may also need a 1 inch wide putty knife to free the pads from the backing plates that go into the caliper pistons and are glued together. That may only be on the S models and not the base cars.

[teleski]

Thinking of tackling the brakes myself, which I have never done before. One thing that is not clear to me is whether using some kind of anti-squeal grease (copper of whatever) is necessary and if so what do you use? Will a shop always use some or they just stuff the new pads in there?

[jb92563]

Originally Posted by teleski

Thinking of tackling the brakes myself, which I have never done before. One thing that is not clear to me is whether using some kind of anti-squeal grease (copper of whatever) is necessary and if so what do you use? Will a shop always use some or they just stuff the new pads in there?

The pads I bought online had the squeal muffling pad on them already, so just drop them in place and all will be well.

Rotors are replaced when they get to the minimum thickness or get scored.

Scoring only occurs if you wear the pads down to the rivets or metal backink plate. but your sensors and brake light will come on before that happens if your sensors are still attached and working.


once the Wheel is off you remove 2 pins and the brake pad retainer is released and the pads come right out once you push the pistons in a bit.
Just yank the sensors out first with pliers.

[ilikeching]

Great DIY 996/986 brake calipers and rotors, step by step:

part 1
DIY - changing front brakes on a water-cooled Porsche - YouTube

part 2
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=--6HLa3Vays&feature=relmfu



and rear calipers and handbrake.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9DpC0lXHP5o

[KevinH1990]

Here's another article:
Pelican Technical Article: Replacing Boxster Brake Pads - 986 / 987

I used this along with the one on Pedro's site and it went smoothly.

[BoxsterHtownTX]

I cant remove my wheel lug bolts off with this factory socket wrench even if I step on it. Any recommendations?

[husker boxster]

Get a can of Aerokroil and liberally spray it around the edges of your lug bolts. Let it sit / soak for 24 hrs. Then use a 19mm long socket on a breaker bar.

All of these items can be purchased at an auto parts store if you don't have them. Remember, it isn't a project unless you have to buy a new tool.

[MrBen]

A couple suggestions. Go to like a hf and pick up an electric impact. Handy thing to have. Second don't do what I did and put the pad in backwards. Always put the ware material against the disk

[MikeMcMo]

[QUOTE=husker boxster;578547]Get a can of Aerokroil and liberally spray it around the edges of your lug bolts. Let it sit / soak for 24 hrs. Then use a 19mm long socket on a breaker bar.

All of these items can be purchased at an auto parts store if you don't have them. Remember, it isn't a project unless you have to buy a new tool.


#1) I once heard a Car Talk show where one brother said, "Remember, every project is an excuse to buy a new tool," and the other brother said, "Every project is an excuse to buy a WHOLE LINE OF TOOLS!"

#2) glad to see I'm not the only one reading every word of a 6 year old post.

[robdelorenzo]

You are correct about it not being a project without having to buy some tools!
I have just about everything ready to go for doing rear rotors, pads, flush, clutch bleed.
One thing I don't see mentioned are the brake dampers.
https://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/SuperCat/1049/POR_1049_BRKPAD_pg3.htm#item13
Apparently there are two different sizes for each piston on each caliper.
I'm replacing the hardware as well, but wasn't sure about the dampers.
I bought them and will replace them as well, so everything is new.
This doesn't look too difficult at all.
The video below was quite helpful, too.
It's just odd that the dampers don't seem to be mentioned much.
Do people reuse them or not use them at all?

[PaulE]

You can never be too rich, too thin or have too many tools!

I was talking about brake pad dampers in my earlier post, I didn't know that's what they are called. They are different on the S model front brakes, both on one sheet of something and they go deep into the caliper pistons and are glued onto the back of the pads. They look like this -

https://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/SuperCat/1052/POR_1052_BRKPAD_pg3.htm#item13

Originally Posted by robdelorenzo

You are correct about it not being a project without having to buy some tools!
I have just about everything ready to go for doing rear rotors, pads, flush, clutch bleed.
One thing I don't see mentioned are the brake dampers.
https://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/SuperCat/1049/POR_1049_BRKPAD_pg3.htm#item13
Apparently there are two different sizes for each piston on each caliper.
I'm replacing the hardware as well, but wasn't sure about the dampers.
I bought them and will replace them as well, so everything is new.
This doesn't look too difficult at all.
The video below was quite helpful, too.
It's just odd that the dampers don't seem to be mentioned much.
Do people reuse them or not use them at all?

[Stroked & Blown]

Htown - slip a piece of pipe over the red handle for extra leverage and re-orient it 180* so you can pull UP with your legs - Think doing squats at the gym.