What is that red key button for?

[InsuranceBoxster]

Hi fellow boxsters,

Does anyone know what the console button that has a key on it is for? I've searched for a function for it time and time again and every time I hit it the horn honks twice and the doors lock (?) so Im guessing its a security button?

thanks ahead of time!

[tony_fury]

Originally Posted by InsuranceBoxster

Hi fellow boxsters,

Does anyone know what the console button that has a key on it is for? I've searched for a function for it time and time again and every time I hit it the horn honks twice and the doors lock (?) so Im guessing its a security button?

thanks ahead of time!

It indicates the doors are lock when the ignition is on.

See owners manual, page 21 or so, Central locking switch

[tonycarreon]

in case you're missing your owner's manual:

the button is the lock / unlock button. press the "key" and it locks the car. press the red light and the door unlocks.

if you're getting two honks, there's a problem with your central locking system and you should get it checked out. one honk indicates something is not closed - such as the center console lid, or one of the trunk lids.

[tony_fury]

Originally Posted by tonycarreon

if you're getting two honks, there's a problem with your central locking system and you should get it checked out. one honk indicates something is not closed - such as the center console lid, or one of the trunk lids.

To add what tony said, I found that if you fail to ground the wire connected to the stereo (in my case after market stereo) it will do as described above.

[tanque55]

From what I read in the owners manual it allows you to set up the way you lock and open the doors. You can have the doors lock automatically upon motion, you can program how the doors open from the inside also. When the light is on it is using the program you've set up. I haven't gotten to how to set that up yet.

[tonycarreon]

tanque55: to change the way the CLS operations requires programming with the porsche computer. not something you can do with the button itself.

there are 4 ways to program the CLS
1) automatic lock after the ignition is switched on
2) automatic lock after 3-6 mph is exceeded
3) automatic lock after the ignition is switched on and relocked after 3-6 mph
4) no automatic lock

[dbear61]

Okay, this forum is more fogiving than some where people rant at newbies to "rtff" before asking questions, but I've done my search on the CLS and looked at the posts going back to 2010 w/o seeing this specific issue.

New purchase in May, and I know the ignition switch is starting to wear out. Every start requires a slight left push to set everything to normal. But even prior to that, from day one, lock button on the fob produced a single beep on activation.

So just in the past three weeks, the CLS button on the center dash started occasionally flashing if I went to speeds over 65 mph. After reaching destination and restart, the light was and stayed off. When it did come on, pressing the button shut it off for a few seconds, but it would then start flashing again.

Today I noticed in came on steady state somewhere during a 20 mile drive that varied from stop to 50 to 20 to 75 to 60 to street driving. After an hour rest, the drive home varied from street to rush hour stopn-n-go to 60 to street driving over a total of 6 miles, and the light never came on.

[tony_fury]

Originally Posted by dbear61

Okay, this forum is more fogiving than some where people rant at newbies to "rtff" before asking questions, but I've done my search on the CLS and looked at the posts going back to 2010 w/o seeing this specific issue.

New purchase in May, and I know the ignition switch is starting to wear out. Every start requires a slight left push to set everything to normal. But even prior to that, from day one, lock button on the fob produced a single beep on activation.

So just in the past three weeks, the CLS button on the center dash started occasionally flashing if I went to speeds over 65 mph. After reaching destination and restart, the light was and stayed off. When it did come on, pressing the button shut it off for a few seconds, but it would then start flashing again.

Today I noticed in came on steady state somewhere during a 20 mile drive that varied from stop to 50 to 20 to 75 to 60 to street driving. After an hour rest, the drive home varied from street to rush hour stopn-n-go to 60 to street driving over a total of 6 miles, and the light never came on.

That is a weird symptom with the CLS flashing..

Almost sounds like something is loose and vibration causing some micro switch to make or break contact...

[tonycarreon]

Originally Posted by dbear61

Okay, this forum is more fogiving than some where people rant at newbies to "rtff" before asking questions, but I've done my search on the CLS and looked at the posts going back to 2010 w/o seeing this specific issue.

New purchase in May, and I know the ignition switch is starting to wear out. Every start requires a slight left push to set everything to normal. But even prior to that, from day one, lock button on the fob produced a single beep on activation.

So just in the past three weeks, the CLS button on the center dash started occasionally flashing if I went to speeds over 65 mph. After reaching destination and restart, the light was and stayed off. When it did come on, pressing the button shut it off for a few seconds, but it would then start flashing again.

Today I noticed in came on steady state somewhere during a 20 mile drive that varied from stop to 50 to 20 to 75 to 60 to street driving. After an hour rest, the drive home varied from street to rush hour stopn-n-go to 60 to street driving over a total of 6 miles, and the light never came on.

replacing your ignition switch might cure a lot of issues. sometimes the switch causes problems that might not appear related but after replacement they are resolved. my suggestion is to replace the switch and see if the flashing light issue is resolved.

as an aside, a single beep when locking indicates something is not secured - usually the center console, but could be on of the trunks, a door, etc.

it might be possible one of the doors is not being picked up as closed by the CLS and on bumps or road vibration might make the CLS think the door is open, causing the light to turn on and off... just a thought.

[jcb986]

Mine operates the ejection seat...passenger side of course.:dance:

[dbear61]

Originally Posted by tonycarreon

replacing your ignition switch might cure a lot of issues. sometimes the switch causes problems that might not appear related but after replacement they are resolved. my suggestion is to replace the switch and see if the flashing light issue is resolved.

Definitely plan on that ... from some of the "surprises" others on the forum have had with older Boxsters (mine's MY 01), being the 4th owner, I'm considering pulling things apart to see if it is the original part or the newer part.

Maybe I should just order the original part, and if the switch was previously upgraded, try re-assembly of the switch and re-order the newer part.

Bear

[thom4782]

I have a similar two beep problem. Using a Porsche diagnostic computer, I got codes 61 and 47. Does anybody know what those are?

As a first step, I am going to replace the central locking switch and see if that fixes the problem. If not, I'll need to dig deeper. The diagnostics didn't really point more directly where the problem might lie.

Anybody have any other thoughts on this.

Thanks

[tony_fury]

Originally Posted by thom4782

I have a similar two beep problem. Using a Porsche diagnostic computer, I got codes 61 and 47. Does anybody know what those are?

As a first step, I am going to replace the central locking switch and see if that fixes the problem. If not, I'll need to dig deeper. The diagnostics didn't really point more directly where the problem might lie.

Anybody have any other thoughts on this.

Thanks

thom4782:
If you replaced your stereo with an aftermarket. Make sure you DO NOT ground the wire on the side of where the factory stereo was.

This wire is normally open, when the factory radio is removed it then makes contact to ground. Which in turn will cause you alarm system to beep once when armed, and twice when unarmed with the remote.

When replacing the factory stereo out, ensure that wire is just taped up and not connected any longer.

Hope this helps
T

[dbear61]

Ignore this post; it was done prematurely, and I can't see any "delete" option in the edit mode.

[dbear61]

Well, I think I have this mostly fixed. I ordered TWO ignition switches from NAPA ($11.49 each) last week and picked them up last Saturday.

Using the replacement steps from Pedro's Garage, I scooted into the footwell and removed the A/C duct and pulled the wiring harness. That's where I came to an impasse.

I honestly don't know how ANYBODY with arms longer than 30" could do this. No matter how I positioned myself, I could not get my arm in a position to reach a screw driver up to the set screws.

I had to enlist my daughter to do this. This mornining I showed her the procedure on Pedro's site, she crawled in, and after much complaining, aggravation, etc., got the screws loose to the point of being able to pull the switch out about 1/4", and it stuck. Wouldn't go back in, either. I figured the worn switch had rotated a bit when released from the notch in the housing and was now out of alignment.

I had her loosen the screws a bit more, and out it came! The replacement slid right in, I put everything back together, and what a difference in the feel of the startup.

I still get the single beep when locking the vehicle. Everything is closed up, so I'm not sure what else is amiss, but it doesn't seem to be creating any problems at this point. Plus, I feel better with that audible confirmation that the vehicle is locked.

The PO had an aftermarket radio installed "professionally", so maybe the grounding wire wasn't handled properly.

My non-mechanical daughter now gets the bragging rights that she fixed my Boxster.

Bear

[thom4782]

Tony Fury:

If the new switch doesn't work, I'll look into your suggestion. I did replace the stereo many years ago. Perhaps the insulation came off the wire and it intermittently grounds itself.

Thanks

Thom

[Topless]

Originally Posted by jcb986

Mine operates the ejection seat...passenger side of course.:dance:

+1 So your blind date talks too much?? No problem, Porsche has you covered.

[tony_fury]

Originally Posted by thom4782

Tony Fury:

If the new switch doesn't work, I'll look into your suggestion. I did replace the stereo many years ago. Perhaps the insulation came off the wire and it intermittently grounds itself.

Thanks

Thom

(Radio Alarm Detection Tab)
I doubt that the insulation would come off. If anything, when the new stereo was installed you may of left it connected.
The new stereo may not be depressing the tab like the factory stereo did.
It's designed to be normally open when the factory stereo is inserted. There is a metal tab that bends open from the factory stereo being slid in position. When removed the tab releases making contact to ground.
If the wire is still connected and clearance between the tab and the new stereo may be allowing it to switch to ground.

The top right picture shows the radio detection wire and ground tab.
(Picture courtesy of Pelican Technical Article) Pelican Technical Article: Changing Your Boxster Stereo Head Unit / Installing Boxster Ipod Integration - 986 / 987