05-06-2011, 06:57 AM
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#1
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Redmond, Wa
Posts: 369
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If you're paying a shop to change them, change just one, there is no discount for changing more then one, ie if 1 bearing change costs 500$ to replace (seattle prices) two bearings will be 1000$
If you're changing them youself, might as well change both, bearing is cheap and after you've done it once, second bearing is a lot easier.. plus you'll have to do an alignment if you're doing rears so might as well get it all done.
Thanks
Sasha
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05-06-2011, 07:19 AM
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#2
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Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Houston, Texas
Posts: 7,243
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bearing changes on a wheel hub opened a real can of worms for me. To get to it, you have to take off most everything from that corner of the car suspension-wise.
It's a wonderful time to replace a strut, tie rod, control arm or two (or three in the case of the back wheels) because there's no additional labor to take out an old one and put in a new one.
The can of worms is that you should not replace just one strut and they aren't cheap.
You may want to invest in a new lower control arm on that one corner and have the mechanic put that in when he takes the old one off. These wear out way too prematurely on our cars and cause some nasty-loud squeaking when you go over bumps or turn the wheel hard and go into a driveway. It's caused by the steel bit wearing through the rubber gasket and rubbing against the aluminum.
I will say this though... I had all four wheel bearings and most of the suspension swapped out on my car a couple of years ago and it now drives like a brand new car and it's QUIET. I had no idea how noisy worn suspension parts (loose, clanking, and random squeaking that was hard to pinpoint) and nearly-worn out bearings made the car.
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05-06-2011, 07:36 AM
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#3
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Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: It's a kind of magic.....
Posts: 6,645
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As Frodo has the SIR tooling, he will not need to pull the suspension apart to change the wheel bearing.
__________________
“Anything really new is invented only in one’s youth. Later, one becomes more experienced, more famous – and more stupid.” - Albert Einstein
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05-06-2011, 12:58 PM
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#4
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Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Ohio
Posts: 2,029
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JFP in PA
As Frodo has the SIR tooling, he will not need to pull the suspension apart to change the wheel bearing.
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Bingo. Actually, not quite yet...but it's on it's way. (Since I smacked the right rear as well as the right front, that may be the next one to go. Figured I should go ahead and spring for the kit now.)
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05-06-2011, 02:22 PM
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#5
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Queensland, Australia
Posts: 1,522
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What exactly does the SIR tools consist of.....
__________________
2001 Boxster S (triple black). Sleeping easier with LN Engineering/Flat 6 IMS upgrade, low temp thermostat & underspeed pulley.
2001 MV Agusta F4.
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05-06-2011, 02:51 PM
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#6
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Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: It's a kind of magic.....
Posts: 6,645
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SIR produces a broad selection of specialty tools that allow the removal and installation of both front and rear bearing assemblies without the use of a conventional bearing press. This allows the bearings to be changed with the suspension components still in the car rather than removing them and taking them to the press; big time saver for shops.
Their websiste http://www.sirtools.com
__________________
“Anything really new is invented only in one’s youth. Later, one becomes more experienced, more famous – and more stupid.” - Albert Einstein
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05-06-2011, 07:46 PM
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#7
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Bastrop, TX
Posts: 705
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Drawing from my memory of changing out my springs, how exactly can you take the bearing out without taking the whole thing apart?
IE: How do you get the bearing out without removing the axle....How do you remove the axle without removing the hub/spindle.....How do you remove the hub/spindle without unhooking everything?
Trying to learn tricks, because changing the springs was an easy job.....but it took me every bit of 4 hours per corner.
__________________
2002 S
Pedro rear stabilizer bar, CF strut braces, Maxspeed headers with 100 cell cats, Fabspeed cat bypass pipes, H&R springs with M030 setup, TRG rear links, EVO air intake, B&M Short shift kit, Raby IMS upgrade, Raby underdrive pulley
Last edited by jhandy; 05-07-2011 at 04:35 AM.
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05-09-2011, 09:04 AM
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#8
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: O.C. CA
Posts: 3,709
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Frodo
Bingo. Actually, not quite yet...but it's on it's way. (Since I smacked the right rear as well as the right front, that may be the next one to go. Figured I should go ahead and spring for the kit now.)
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I would clean & inspect the wheel carriers for damage & cracks also!
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05-09-2011, 09:06 AM
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#9
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Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Houston, Texas
Posts: 7,243
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Oh, and don't forget to buy new caliper bolts. They one-shot use pieces according to Porsche and should not be reused. Fortunately, they're a typical in-stock item and not terribly expensive.
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