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Old 02-22-2011, 01:16 PM   #1
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Accusump Installed this weekend...

It was a pretty straightforward install. The hardest part was the plumbing of the line. I DO NOT LIKE BRAIDED STEEL HOSE!!! Looks good but a ******************** to work with. I noticed that some folks did a connector at the firewall but I just drilled a hole through the firewall and ran the hose through a grommet. I wired the electric switch into the rear wiring harness in the trunk and mounted the toggle switch in the trunk as well. I used the sandwich adapter and spin-on filter adapters from LN. They were really simple and seem like a good solution to me. The trade off is the much smaller filter, but I am going to buy them in bulk and change frequently. I also went with the LN oil pan extension and their magnetic drain plug. If this SOB blows up again, it won't be for lack of oil!!!

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Old 02-22-2011, 01:18 PM   #2
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Is the deep sump spacer still required when you have the accusump installed? How much work is involved for the install?
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Old 02-27-2011, 10:47 AM   #3
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Track related M96 engine failures are not entirely dependent upon high speed cornering and the associated G forces.

Oil that cannot take exceptionally high temperatures without losing its ability to maintain pressure is the single biggest element that we have seen. Oil temperatures of m96 engines can exceed 250F and at that point off the shelf oils lose their ability to maintain pressure. In this scenario the G forces further aggrevate the pressure issues and appear to be the culprint, when they are really just a part of it.

All the issues we have experienced with the M96 failing on the track due to oil pressure issues have been experienced at the end of sessions when the oil is heated exceptionally. I haven't talked to a single person who experienced a failure in the early laps of a DE or track event, only after the oil is heat soaked and thin. In my personal 996 equipped with an accusump I noted this with my data acquisition system on track at Road Atlanta where turn 1 and turn 7 were the worst for oil pressure, but only after the oil temps were eleveated and the session was 3/4 over. That was with coilovers all around and sticky tires.

Just something to consider.. The accu-sump does help a lot. We do not have on- track issues these days, even without an X 51 pan and other measures that are commonly applied to overcome what appears to be the root of the issue.
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Old 02-27-2011, 12:28 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jake Raby
Track related M96 engine failures are not entirely dependent upon high speed cornering and the associated G forces.

Oil that cannot take exceptionally high temperatures without losing its ability to maintain pressure is the single biggest element that we have seen. Oil temperatures of m96 engines can exceed 250F and at that point off the shelf oils lose their ability to maintain pressure. In this scenario the G forces further aggrevate the pressure issues and appear to be the culprint, when they are really just a part of it.

All the issues we have experienced with the M96 failing on the track due to oil pressure issues have been experienced at the end of sessions when the oil is heated exceptionally. I haven't talked to a single person who experienced a failure in the early laps of a DE or track event, only after the oil is heat soaked and thin. In my personal 996 equipped with an accusump I noted this with my data acquisition system on track at Road Atlanta where turn 1 and turn 7 were the worst for oil pressure, but only after the oil temps were eleveated and the session was 3/4 over. That was with coilovers all around and sticky tires.

Just something to consider.. The accu-sump does help a lot. We do not have on- track issues these days, even without an X 51 pan and other measures that are commonly applied to overcome what appears to be the root of the issue.
Thank you VERY MUCH for this explanation
So for people like me who track their cars regularly what oil and probably more important what oil weight would you reccomend
Especially for people who live in hot climates in the summer and don't have to worry about cold temperatures (I am happy to put in a different oil during the off-track (cold) season)
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Old 02-27-2011, 05:07 PM   #5
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The only oil we have experienced that will stay alive at these temperatures has an additive package thats depleted after only 750 miles of service.. It has to be changed every 750 miles, or generally after just one track weekend.

Thats the problem.. True race oils are exactly that, they have no lifespan.
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Old 02-27-2011, 08:32 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jake Raby
The only oil we have experienced that will stay alive at these temperatures has an additive package thats depleted after only 750 miles of service.. It has to be changed every 750 miles, or generally after just one track weekend.

Thats the problem.. True race oils are exactly that, they have no lifespan.
OK, so I'll add an oil change to the list of things (bleed brakes, change pads, install rollbar, etc.) to the list of things before a track day - I can live with that
What oil is it?
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Old 02-28-2011, 10:24 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jake Raby
The only oil we have experienced that will stay alive at these temperatures has an additive package thats depleted after only 750 miles of service.. It has to be changed every 750 miles, or generally after just one track weekend.

Thats the problem.. True race oils are exactly that, they have no lifespan.

Jake. Very interseting stuff. Is there a theory as to what exact mechanism is causing the loss of oil pressure at elevated temperatures? It is not entirely clear me unless it has to do with oil pump efficiencies/effectiveness under less viscous conditions. Would your transducer placement potentially play a role in the trends you see ?'
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Old 02-22-2011, 01:20 PM   #8
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I was seriously considering getting the Accusump, until I saw that LNE recommends changing the oil every 1200 miles. That's about $800 a year in oil changes.

Is that the Corvette oil filter, or does it have to be a smaller one due to the size of the adapter? Does it hang down as low as the oil pan with the LNE deep sump?
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Old 02-22-2011, 01:35 PM   #9
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If I recall it right, they recommend to change the oil FILTER not the oil every 1,200 miles. If you have the spin on adapter from LN engineering you probably lose 1/2 a quart (but it's still messy)
That's why i went with the B-K deepsump which adds 1/2 quart of oil to the sump
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Old 02-22-2011, 01:53 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ChrisZang
That's why i went with the B-K deepsump which adds 1/2 quart of oil to the sump
But don't you still lose that 1/2 quart?
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Old 02-22-2011, 07:10 PM   #11
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No, the deep sump oil pan was not required for the accusump. The shorty filter does not hang below the standard pan. You do lose a little oil in changing just the filter, but I think less than 1/2 quart.
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Old 02-23-2011, 06:45 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike_Yi
But don't you still lose that 1/2 quart?
I meant that I installed the deep sump kit instead of the accusump
The additional 1/2 quart in the wet sump is supposed to give you enough oil to safe you from oil starvation as long as you're not on full slicks, then you will need the accusump
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Old 02-23-2011, 12:50 PM   #13
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Nice installation.....I like the cylinder off of the floor!

The Mantis sump is really deep. Would it do the same job as the accusump apart from nice oil pressure on start-up?

Would I be okay with just a sump on a skid pad and DE stuff. I don't think I will have slicks on my current street car
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Old 02-23-2011, 03:08 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike_Yi
I was seriously considering getting the Accusump, until I saw that LNE recommends changing the oil every 1200 miles. That's about $800 a year in oil changes.




haha nooo! you read that wrong. they recommend changing the oil FILTER every 1200 miles. this is because there is no filter bypass for this style of accusump; if the filter gets clogged, the accusump won't be able to discharge properly.
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Old 02-24-2011, 05:30 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by insite
haha nooo! you read that wrong. they recommend changing the oil FILTER every 1200 miles. this is because there is no filter bypass for this style of accusump; if the filter gets clogged, the accusump won't be able to discharge properly.
I did read that wrong. That's going on my list of wants. I'd love to be able to mount that somewhere underneath though rather than in the trunk.
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