Something broke when I tried to put the top down. What happened?

[schoir]

Originally Posted by chaudanova

Kavlono, Maurice's recommendation worked out brilliantly for me, and should for you as well.

Thanks again Maurice!

Glad it worked out!

Regards, Maurice.

[jcb986]

Go here and get the one's that are all metal: http://www.klaindustries.net/

[clickman]

Originally Posted by jcb986

Go here and get the one's that are all metal: http://www.klaindustries.net/

Interesting.

This company says "There have been instances of this piece breaking possibly causing some major damage to the tonneau cover. I've heard reports of up to $2000 damage."

Others have said that they're plastic for a reason - as a cheap break point in case of an issue.

$70 seems like cheap insurance if I have a chance of a $2000 problem.

Maurice, would you opine, please...

[schoir]

Originally Posted by clickman

Interesting.

This company says "There have been instances of this piece breaking possibly causing some major damage to the tonneau cover. I've heard reports of up to $2000 damage."

Others have said that they're plastic for a reason - as a cheap break point in case of an issue.

$70 seems like cheap insurance if I have a chance of a $2000 problem.

Maurice, would you opine, please...

Norm:

You don't have to spend $70 because you can buy just the plastic ball cups from the guy in the Netherlands.

They are indeed plastic for a reason. The biggest concern with using the aluminum or metal ball cups that someone has had manufactured is because of the FORCE of that little electric motor. If there is a top malfunction, the plastic ball cups are designed to give way before any further damage is caused. The $2,000 quote is on the lower end of the cost of possible damage if one of the lugs at the base of each B-pillar (onto which a steel ball is mounted to accept the plastic ball cup) breaks. The convertible top frame is made of magnesium and the individual parts are astronomical.

In addition, if only one side lets go and you are not paying attention, you run the risk of tweaking the clamshell and that's not a cheap fix either once it gets really tweaked.

If you want to get an idea of the force of that electric motor, consider that there are instances where the V-lever is bent at a right angle. If you examine the thickness and ribbed design of the V-lever, you will be amazed that anything connected with the top can bend it.

Stick with the plastic ball cups, whether you buy the complete pushrod assembly from Porsche or get just the cups by themselves.

Regards, Maurice.

[clickman]

Thanks, Maurice.

Just to make sure we're on the same wavelength, the maker of the steel ball cups is saying $2000 damage because of the plastic cups breaking. Ergo his justification for the steel cups.

But I hear you; I won't be installing them.

And BTW, thanks for your excellent contributions to the forum (and others) on the subject of the convertible tops. Knock on wood mine's been fine so far, but I know the day will come, and having all of this ref info available as well as you to ask questions of makes me feel a lot more warm and fuzzy.

[schoir]

Originally Posted by clickman

Thanks, Maurice.

Just to make sure we're on the same wavelength, the maker of the steel ball cups is saying $2000 damage because of the plastic cups breaking. Ergo his justification for the steel cups.

But I hear you; I won't be installing them.

And BTW, thanks for your excellent contributions to the forum (and others) on the subject of the convertible tops. Knock on wood mine's been fine so far, but I know the day will come, and having all of this ref info available as well as you to ask questions of makes me feel a lot more warm and fuzzy.

Norm:

We are on the same wavelength... but I haven't been able to come up with a scenario that would justify that claim (about the damage to the "tonneau cover" a/k/a clamshell) because if only one ball cup were to break during either the close or the open cycle, the top would still usually operate...almost normally. The only noticeable difference would be that one side of the canvas top would either lag behind or lurch forward, depending on whether you are in the process of opening or closing the top. If both ball cups broke, the canvas portion of the top would no longer be driven, but the clamshell would continue to operate (because the black "hydraulic" pushrods are separate components and would not be affected).

I guess if the top was closed, and you were in the middle stage of opening the top and both ball cups broke at that moment, the continuing clamshell would close on top of the still not completely closed top and, if the top did not "collapse" into the closed position, the clamshell might get bent around the canvas' frame. Never heard of it happening, probably because there is not much tension on the ball cups at that stage, but I suppose it's theoretically possible.

The severe tweaking of the clamshell usually occurs only as a result of either a broken/frayed drive cable on one side, or a malfunctioning transmission or V-lever, when there is continued operation of the motor which is then only driving one side.

A more realistic possibility of causing damage after a plastic ball cup breaks is that caused by the newly dangling remnant of the pushrod digging into the foam drain tray as the V-lever continues to turn. The foam drain tray gets torn or ripped and, if not repaired promptly, that can result in water intrusion into the cabin...where it will quickly fry the central alarm computer under the driver's seat.

Thanks for the kudos. I get a lot of help from these forums (fora?) as well and I'm glad to be able to contribute.

Regards, Maurice.

[kavlono]

I could not wait to get the parts from overseas so I went to the dealer and bought the two assemblies which cost $70 each or $140 total. I unscrewed the white plastic end caps from the parts and put them on my car. Then hooked to the corresponding balls and, whalla!, the top works perfectly now. Even though it cost me $140 I think of all the money I saved by not having the dealer put on the whole assembly.
Thanks to everyone for their help. I could not have done it without you.

[chaudanova]

Originally Posted by jcb986

Go here and get the one's that are all metal: http://www.klaindustries.net/

I believe the consensus is that these metal ones are not recommended. The plastic ones are designed to be a weak point, and to break when there is some sort of an obstruction or problem. The plastic is cheap and easy to replace (relatively speaking), versus everything else down the line that could break instead, when there is an error in opening/closing the top.