Rear wheel bearing replacement without removing carrier?

[Fluellen]

Howdy,

I am getting ready to replace the rear wheel bearings on my 2001 S. All write-ups I have seen have you remove the bearing carrier, and then remove the bearings off-car.

Is it possible to replace the bearings without removing the carrier? I have done it that way on my 951, and it seemed fairly easy to do (I have a bearing removal tool similar to the SIR tools one).

Anyone done it that way on a Boxster? Is it impossible, or is it a lot easier removing the carrier?

Thanks!

Gary

[JFP in PA]

You can do it on the car, but by the time you have everything disconnected to do it on the car, you are a fastener or two from being able to do it on the bench.....

[Fluellen]

JFP, thanks!

I was mainly concerned about separating the ball joint. I thought that if I were able to do it on the car, I wouldn't have to separate the ball joint. Or do I have to do that anyway to get enough clearance?

[jcb986]

Here's the Tech article from Pelican and there was someone here who posted a pretty good article on How To.

http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Boxster_Tech/40-TRANS-Wheel_Bearings/40-TRANS-Wheel_Bearings.htm

[JFP in PA]

Originally Posted by Fluellen

JFP, thanks!

I was mainly concerned about separating the ball joint. I thought that if I were able to do it on the car, I wouldn't have to separate the ball joint. Or do I have to do that anyway to get enough clearance?

From the Pelican article, you can see how the hub is being disconnected (the small insert photo shows the separation tool). At this juncture, the hub is already nearly out of the car........

[986rgt]

Here is the link to my write-up for replacing the front wheel bearing, wich is basically the same as the rear wheel bearing. The major difference is the driveshaft and the strut setup. Hope it helps you...
Boxster Wiki Wheel bearing change

Steve

[Kirk]

Originally Posted by Fluellen

JFP, thanks!

I was mainly concerned about separating the ball joint. I thought that if I were able to do it on the car, I wouldn't have to separate the ball joint. Or do I have to do that anyway to get enough clearance?

I've done both rear wheel bearings, suspension changes, and axles all without separating the ball joint. I think it's easier to just disconnect the control arm at the eccentric bolt that sets camber and leave the ball joint alone.

Kirk

[Fluellen]

Kirk, good to hear! I am assuming you have to re-do the alignment afterwards though?

Thanks everyone for the how-to's!

[JFP in PA]

Originally Posted by Kirk

I've done both rear wheel bearings, suspension changes, and axles all without separating the ball joint. I think it's easier to just disconnect the control arm at the eccentric bolt that sets camber and leave the ball joint alone.

Kirk

This is purely a matter of personal preference; with the car up, it only takes a second to pop the ball joint with the correct tool, which will also not damage the ball joint boot. Once the unit is loose, you use either the specialized tools from someone like Baum on the bench, or a standard bearing press. One of my tech’s leaves the hub ball join connected, another always pulls them; both methods work fine and there is no real difference in the amount of time it takes……………..

[Kirk]

Originally Posted by Fluellen

Kirk, good to hear! I am assuming you have to re-do the alignment afterwards though?

Yes, if you mess with the camber bolt you'll have to align the car.... or you can use a Sharpie to mark the eccentric washer in a couple places and just put things back exactly as they were, then an alignment wouldn't be necessary. Usually if I've got things apart that much I'm also doing other work, setting ride height of coil overs, corner balancing car, etc. so I'll just do an alignment, but I do them myself.

Kirk