should I buy this 1997 Boxster? - Page 2 - 986 Forum - The Community for Porsche Boxster & Cayman Owners

ekam · 07-23-2010, 12:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Pat

How does "doing shocks" equate to $2,000? Buying OEM units and paying to have them installed?
The whole RoW kit can be had for $1,100 at your door.

$1100 plus installation and 4 wheel alignment? Maybe he's going for PSS9? Perhaps he also needs new drop links as well?

Pat · 07-23-2010, 12:55 PM

He just said shocks. Doesn't make much sense to me, but I suppose with really nice shocks and labor it could be that much.

backman_z · 07-23-2010, 01:22 PM

My 2 cents.

The question you need to ask yourself is "Am I a gear head?" Do you fix, repair and do your own maintenance on your current cars? Do you like getting your hands dirty and greasy? Do you like scraped knuckles? If not, run, because paying someone else to fix this will be far more expensive then the price you paid for the car.

I can and like to work on my own cars, but with young kids and a wife, I choose not to work on them (when the kids are old enough to lean, I will re-start). I waited until I got a good Boxster, and it was checked out at a Porsche dealer before I bought it. I am very happy that I did. I have not had any problems, except for a recent problem with the ignition switch (the dealer I got it from is going to pay for the repair).

Perfectlap · 07-23-2010, 02:12 PM

OEM S Shocks, springs, alignment (spec) and labor.. my indy quoted $1900.
Rate is $80 per hour. I don't see the point of doing that much labor and not puttin in new springs.

Pat · 07-23-2010, 02:34 PM

What's wrong with the springs? How many miles are on them?

Blue-S · 07-23-2010, 03:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Perfectlap

OEM S Shocks, springs, alignment (spec) and labor.. my indy quoted $1900.
Rate is $80 per hour. I don't see the point of doing that much labor and not puttin in new springs.

I have a spare set of 2003 S 6-speed shocks and springs wth only 27,000 miles on them. They were removed for the installation of an M030 kit. I'll sell them to you way cheaper than that!

dirkdiggler · 07-24-2010, 09:33 AM

Thanks guys for all the help

my buddy said he could do the rms and Ims and clutch for $500 + cost of parts.

I think if the guy will come down to $3k for it I will buy it.

Worse case ...... The motor blows and I part it out

I assume there is a decent market for used parts from this car?? Even body panels gotta sell for decent money?

husker boxster · 07-24-2010, 12:41 PM

It's not so much if the motor blows that will be the issue. It's the $250, $500, and $1000 expenditures that it needs for each and every little item in order to make this car roadworthy. These "little things" are going to turn you upside down in a hurry.

Before you buy it, sit down and make a list of all the things it needs that you know about. Be sure to include O2 sensors. Do the windows work? How do the CV boots look? Those are items that generally need replacing. How bout the brake fluid, an antifreeze flush? Doesn't sound like this car had much maintenance done to it. Better throw those things in too. Price out the parts at Suncoast or Pelican. Add the labor that your friend will be charging. See what it costs. You'll be shocked.

This car has such a long list of known issues I can't imagine what unknowns are lurking.

At least do yourself a favor and test drive any other Boxster you can. There have to be garage queens available in your area that you can bargain down to the total cost of this mut.

Mauiboxster · 07-24-2010, 02:52 PM

The first thing I would look at is why this guy is willing to sell the car so cheap. I am guessing he knows it is a money pit and knows you are in for a real pain in the ass. I was in the same spot your in. I could have bought a 1998 for 6k. and decided to go with a 99 that was in mint condition for 12,000. I could not be happier because I get to drive the 99 and not just work on the 98.

dirkdiggler · 07-24-2010, 05:40 PM

I am curious what it means when the check engine light flashes for a little while and then stays on solid??? anyone know??

also..... assuming the rear main-seal leak is the cause of the decent size oil leak.......... can i just check the oil very often and add as needed untill I get it fixed?? asking becasue I dont want the motor to blow on the drive home with it or something. Pretty much what can occur if the rear main-seal is leaking besides a little oil drippage?

I am willing to get dirty and work on the things I can myself ...... I generally only take my cars to buddies shop if there is no way I can possibly do it in my garage. I actually hate asking friends that own shops to do work for me. I use to rebuild sportbikes in college so I am pretty mechanically inclined .... not saying a sportbike is anything like a Porsche though.

I am also not one of those guys that needs everything on his car to be mint so some of the issues on this particular porsche dont bother me ..... such as the top being sorta message up. I have no problem getting out of the and putting it up and down carefully.

The guy is selling it so cheap becasue he is very very wealthy and moving out of the state very soon....... he really said he just needs it gone and doesnt really care. He is not a auto dealer or anything like that
My Girlfirend works for a automobile auction company and ran the car through for him already last week and the bidding got up too $6k for the car...... at that time the seller was hoping to get $7k-$8k out of the porsche so he declined the offer. Now as time has been getting closer to when he has to leave and the issues the car has have been brought to his attention he just has been letting it go for less and less. Now that I am interested in it my GF has been able to negotiate with him and pretty much giving me first crack at it at this point.

He obtained the car 2 years ago to help a friend of his out of a financial jam. He is very good friends with my Girlfriend but ..... the guy knows nothing about cars so isnt much help regarding the issues or maintenance.

Issues I know of?

keep in mind, car seems to run good and shift through gears normally.

- computer under seat got wet ... may be able to save but not sure.
- Flashing and then solid check engine light
- Autozone code scanner says missfire on couple cylinders and O2 sensor
- Rear main seal leak I think?? will change clutch regardless so these can be done then too
- 2 new tires needed
- converts top needs little work .... not a issue for me to fix this janky style
- Brakes soon

Can the the computer getting wet cause the check engine light and miss-fire issues?

If I can get it for $3k, I feel it will be a pretty good deal ........ worst case, motor blows and it becomes a $3k piece of garage eye candy I guess!!

JTP · 07-24-2010, 06:16 PM

A steady CEL is telling you there is a problem but you can drive on. A flashing CEL indicates there is a problem that could cause catastrophic damage to the engine and it means pull over and stop the engine ASAP. You should seriously look into this problem before going any further with the deal.

husker boxster · 07-24-2010, 07:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dirkdiggler

also..... assuming the rear main-seal leak is the cause of the decent size oil leak.......... can i just check the oil very often and add as needed untill I get it fixed?? asking becasue I dont want the motor to blow on the drive home with it or something. Pretty much what can occur if the rear main-seal is leaking besides a little oil drippage?

Yes, many just keep an eye on the oil level when RMS first appears as a little drip. If the issue is more than just a drip (which it sounds like this one is), be aware that you're dumping $5-$6 a quart oil into your engine / onto the ground. You don't want to do this for very long from an expense stand-point.

hosickjg · 07-24-2010, 07:09 PM

Dirk, its seems very obvious that your not actually asking for advice about whether you should buy this car or not, you have already decided to buy this car.
With that said, here is my 2 cents, DON'T BUY THIS CAR!
A month ago I was in a similar situation with a 1999 Boxster. I bought it, I regret it EVERY DAY and I do all the work myself. I can't IMAGINE having to pay a shop to do work on it. EVERYTHING on a Boxster is OVERPRICED and these engines are FULL of major problems. The only reason I have not sold mine as parts is because I LOVE the Boxster look and drive and am willing to sink HUGE amounts of money into my engine to upgrade and improve it so I can enjoy it (at a high yearly cost) for years to come.
Dirk, if you don't believe me you will, I have only been heavily involved in Boxsters for a little over a month and have already experienced a D-chunk #3 cylinder on the one I bought(81K). Then went to buy a used block that had a slipped sleeve I was not told about(67K on it) (refused the block after driving 12 hours to pick it up). Then bought another used block that I have now discovered has a catistrophic IMS bearing that has done damage to the IM Shaft main sprocket(81K)(drove 9 hours for this one). Luckily now I have 2 blocks that I can build into 1 and keep my bearing carrier with a good block to avoid RMS issues (fingers crossed).
Doesn't it seem strange to you that I have found THREE low mileage Boxster engines that have CATISTROPHIC DAMAGE? Its not strange, these engines are GARBAGE and unless you like this car enough to drop more money into it then its worth in the first place, walk away. I have to replace my piston rings after splitting my block, they are $900 for the set and there are no aftermarket rings available!!! I've never spent more then $300 on a set of piston rings in my life! Just another expense that you will soon be taking on (if your lucky and thats all you have to do) if you buy this car.
I am an experienced mechanic and this is not a simple little engine to do work on and it WILL need work done on it!!
Unless your willing to buy this car for $3000 and then send it to Innovative 6 and spend an additional $15k to have the motor built the way Porsche should have in the first place, don't do it!
Okay, I feel better, Ive said what I need to say..... I need a cigarette and I don't even smoke!

GTA_G20 · 07-25-2010, 08:32 AM

hey Peterborough, wanna build a second motor while you're at it lol

hosickjg · 07-25-2010, 11:15 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GTA_G20

hey Peterborough, wanna build a second motor while you're at it lol

HA, very funny. My block comes back from the machine shop Monday and then I can start re-assembling. Talk to me after I've scraped and cut my knuckles for a while and you might have a deal. LOL

dirkdiggler · 07-25-2010, 02:12 PM

The more replies I read, the more nervous I am becoming. :-(......

I do really love the way the car looks, drives and sounds ...... and now that I am older and too much of a sissy to drive sport-bikes any-longer ..... I really need a convertible sports car.

Anyone else ever had the check engine light flash for a little while and then stay light solid??

Is it possible that the water logged failing Computer under the seat can cause the check engine light to flash.

Im just trying to see what has caused this to happen on other peoples bosxters??

If I do get the car.....which at this point is a 50/50, I will be having the RMS, IMS and clutch replaced asap ........ Thinking that may cost $1500-ish? Buddy said he can do the labor for around $700-ish.

is the IMS bearing part itself real expensive??

JTP · 07-25-2010, 05:20 PM

Go read about IMS failures, Retrofit kits and installation instructions on LN Engineering and Flat6Innovation's websites. I don't recall exactly but I think it's around $650 for the retrofit kit.
If I was to do it over, I would not have bought my Boxster knowing what I know now even though my car has been relatively trouble free. There are just too many issues with it. I do love how the car drives and looks though.

hosickjg · 07-25-2010, 06:01 PM

I just bought an IMS bearing from LN Engineering for the engine I'm building. It was a double row bearing which should be the same as the 1997. It cost $595 plus tax and delivery.

Also yes, a waterlogged OBC under the seat can cause a CEL to come on. Go buy a code reader from any automotive store and plug it in to the Porsche, it will tell you why the light is on. And after your done with it, return it or keep it. I guarentee you will use it again. I bought ones a couple years ago and have used it countless times on countless vehicles.

husker boxster · 07-25-2010, 06:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dirkdiggler

I do really love the way the car looks, drives and sounds ......

Anyone else ever had the check engine light flash for a little while and then stay light solid??

Is it possible that the water logged failing Computer under the seat can cause the check engine light to flash.

There could be a myriad of reasons for the CEL. You can be certain you'll need to replace the computer (not impressive to your date when you pull out a hair dryer to start it). You could also have bad O2 sensors messing things up. Or it could be something else that will manifest itself after you've done these two replacements. The thing is, you can spend a pile of bucks chasing it.

You keep saying you love the way this box looks, drives and sounds. Other boxs will give you that same feeling without having that sucking sound of money flying out of your wallet.

Let me ask you - what are you able to afford? Is your budget only $4K so you think you can afford this box on a budget? Check out past posts about maintenance and you'll find wise owners of older boxs annually put $1500 into a maintenance fund. Spending your entire allotment for a problem child box is really going to send you upside down. If you can't afford a $9K box, you better wait or become friendly with a banker. If you think this $3K box is going to be cheap, you're in for a surprise. By the time you get done fixing everything, you'll have at least $7K invested. If you repair as you can afford it, you'll be driving this box in a couple of yrs but by then nice boxs will be worth $7K.

dirkdiggler · 07-25-2010, 07:39 PM

The autozone computer scanner said the check engine light was on due too O2 sensor and miss-fire on some of the cylinders. I guess it could be saying it has a miss-fire becasue the computer under seat is wet ...... this is assuming the little computer under the seat controls the ignition.......

The aftermarket better IMS bearing cost $550?? ..... gezzz $550 for just a bearing seems nuts?? or are there other parts included?

I see what everyone is saying about it being a money pit but what if i find nice bosxter for $8-$9k and it still needs a new updated IMS bearing and clutch and other odds and ends.

At least if i can get the car for $3k, put money into it and know for sure all the necessary parts have been replaced .... VS ..... buying a nicer boxster for $9k and end up having to replace some of the same expensive stuff anyways ......

I think I may just flip a coin to make my decision and let fate decide for me ...... Im Torn now