986 roof stuck open. - 986 Forum - The Community for Porsche Boxster & Cayman Owners

Greeny · 05-06-2010, 03:49 AM

Hi can anyone help? The roof on my 1998 boxster is stuck open, does anyone know how to manualy put the roof back up? Also there is a red elbow bracket broken off does any know the name of this so i can order one?

Thanks

Greeny

schoir · 05-06-2010, 04:24 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Greeny

Hi can anyone help? The roof on my 1998 boxster is stuck open, does anyone know how to manualy put the roof back up? Also there is a red elbow bracket broken off does any know the name of this so i can order one?

Thanks

Greeny

Greeny:

If the plastic ball cup on one of your front pushrods is broken, you can pop off the plastic ball cup on the other side of the car and the canvas roof will then be capable of operating manually, assuming that the clamshell can still be operated with the electric motor, via the transmissions and V-levers.

If that is not the case, to operate the top manually, you will also have to disconnect the black "hydraulic pushrods" from the other side of the V-levers.

If you want to try to get the top working electrically again, post more specifics and how and when the roof got stuck and in what position, previous symptoms, etc., and we might be able to figure it out without the need for a dealer $$$ visit.

The fact that you still have red plastic ball cups on your '98 means that they are original. There is an "improved" version of the ball cups, made of stronger and less brittle plastic which is not as susceptible to breaking with age.

Porsche only sells the complete pushrod assembly (not the plastic ball cup by itself). The part number for a 986 is 986.561.279.02.

If you want to buy just the plastic ball cups, there is a guy in the Netherlands who has had them manufactured. Send me a PM and I'll give you the info.

Make sure that you verify that your foam drain tray has not gotten ripped or torn by the broken, dangling pushrod. If there is a tear or rip, you run the risk of getting water intrusion into the cabin, where it will promptly fry your central alarm computer (which is under the seat). Since you are in Wales, that may be more a risk than someone in Arizona!

Regards, Maurice.

Frodo · 05-06-2010, 04:48 AM

Regarding the cause...don't know if this is it or not, but mine stopped working at one point shortly after buying the car (it's a 2001). There's a switch (or whatever) in the hand brake that has to be activated (by engaging the brake) before the roof mechanism will do it's thing. Sometimes it goes bad, and the roof transport won't operate. (Basically, the car "thinks" the car may be moving, so it refuses to open/close the roof.)

I can't give you any other details---I had a CPO warranty, so I didn't even try to fix it. Just took it into the dealership.

nylart · 05-06-2010, 09:04 AM

This happened to me just last night. You can tell if it's a bad handbrake switch by seeing if the parking brake light comes on on the dash. No light = switch not operating.

I was able to make it work just by quickly raising and lowering the handle with the release button depressed.

Good luck.

Art

kabel · 05-22-2010, 03:13 AM

Common first posts, and both common problems, Welcome to the forums

Polly, one of the two cables (one on each side) that drives the top mechanism has broken. The same advise Maurice provided for Greeny can apply to your situation:

Quote:

Originally Posted by schoir

If the plastic ball cup on one of your front pushrods is broken, you can pop off the plastic ball cup on the other side of the car and the canvas roof will then be capable of operating manually, assuming that the clamshell can still be operated with the electric motor, via the transmissions and V-levers.

If that is not the case, to operate the top manually, you will also have to disconnect the black "hydraulic pushrods" from the other side of the V-levers.

ARModen · 05-06-2010, 09:14 AM

Best bet it to do what these guys said and determine if it's a mechanical or electrical problem. I couldn't get mine up one day when it looked like it was going to rain because the hand brake switch is sort of touchy. I used Pedro's guide and changed the relay around so that it goes up regardless of speed or parking brake position. It's actually fairly nice, I can put the top up now while I'm waiting in line at a toll booth (been caught there twice now!) or put it up/down as I'm puttering in and out of the parking lot.

Polly · 05-22-2010, 01:00 AM

My roof went down fine but upon trying to raise it on one side tries to move! I can hear the motor trying but as i say only on one side!

Help

schoir · 05-22-2010, 04:02 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Polly

My roof went down fine but upon trying to raise it on one side tries to move! I can hear the motor trying but as i say only on one side!

Help

Polly:

As Kabel says, one of your drive cables is not driving the transmission (and corresponding V-lever) on that side.

You didn't state the year of your Boxster, but the problem you describe is fairly common with 1997 to 1999 Boxsters...those with the smooth-sided black vinyl sheaths that cover the inner (speedometer-type) drive cables.

In that case, the outer sheath tends to stretch, effectively causing the inner cable to partially 'retract". When that happens, the inner cable on that side is no longer being driven by the electric motor. That means that the V-lever on that side's transmission will not turn and the result can be somewhat catastrophic when the other side starts to move, the clamshell on the driven side starts to go up and promptly gets "tweaked". If you are now aware, the clamshell will end up with a deep crease, front to rear.

The fix is to replace the cable, or to cut the outer black vinyl sheath on that side so that you end up with 3/4 of an inch of the inner cable sticking out (so that it can be inserted back inside the side of the electric motor).

The ferrule on the end of the cable is a little difficult to remove and re-install because of the three barbs that hold it in place, but it's doable.

Start by pulling the upside-down U-shaped clip from the side of the electric motor (just in front of the third brake light in the convertible top well) and pulling out the cable (outboard pull) to examine it. If you find that there is less than 3/4" sticking out, you have found the problem.

If you have trouble sticking the cable back into the side of the electric motor, turn the inner cable by hand by 1/32nd of a turn and try again.

If there is enough sticking out, then most likely that cable has frayed or broken apart inside the outer sheath and must be replaced.

Regards, Maurice.

Polly · 05-24-2010, 01:41 PM

Many thanks for your help with this guys.

I've sussed out its a cable problem and now i know where the motor is and what to look for i will investigate furhter.
i was wondering if anyone had any cable fitting guides?
oh and your right its a 97 986 in primrose yellow!
Thanks guys, look foward to any help and advice,
Polly

schoir · 05-24-2010, 08:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Polly

Many thanks for your help with this guys.

I've sussed out its a cable problem and now i know where the motor is and what to look for i will investigate furhter.
i was wondering if anyone had any cable fitting guides?
oh and your right its a 97 986 in primrose yellow!
Thanks guys, look foward to any help and advice,
Polly

Polly:

If you still have the original "A Version" transmissions (those with the half-moon gear inside) on your '97, the cable is difficult to remove from the rear of the transmission. The inner drive cable is a very tight press fit in the worm gear, and , while it is possible to get it out, it's not easy. You can try by clamping a vise-grip on the square part of the cable then use a pair of diagonal side cutters against the vise-grip to press against and lever off the worm drive.

The inner cable is shaped on each end with four sides, and in between it's round so that it can spin freely inside the black vinyl sheath. One end of the cable goes into the side of the motor. The other end is connected to a worm gear that is located on the inside the transmission. That worm gear then is connected to and acts on a half moon gear with 50 teeth.

Here is a photo of the innards, courtesy of Tool Pants:

I would first check to see if one or both of the cables are actually driving the V-lever on each side, and whether the only problem is that the outer sheath of the cable has stretched so as to effectively "pull" the inner cable out of its intended spot inside the side of the electric motor.

To do that, once you pull out one of the cables from the side of the motor, insert the inner speedometer-type cable into the chuck of a cordless drill (on its lowest torque setting) and spin it in either direction, while observing whether the V-lever is turning. If the V-lever is not turning, then either the cable is broken or frayed on the inside of the sheath, or the transmission has gone past the 50th tooth of the V-lever.

BEFORE you start spinning the transmission via the cable, be sure to mark the exact position of the V-lever so that you can bring it back to that exact position. This will facilitate the re-synching of the transmissions once you are done.

The drive cable is a very tight press fit in the worm gear but you can get it out. Clamp a vise-grip on the square part of the cable then use side cutters against the vise-grip to lever off the worm drive.

Regards, Maurice.

MN 986 · 05-30-2010, 08:43 PM

I think I have this same issue with my 2002. I put the top up but the clamshell would not close completely. I was able to pop off the black pushrods so I could lower the clamshell, but the top won't go up or down (I can't get to the red ones with the top up). I noticed that one of the cables seems to be trying to work (I can feel it trying to move) but the other cable is not doing anything.
Does this sound like the same problem?
How does the repair differ on a 2002?
Any help is appreciated because I am out of town and I don't have my service manual with me.
Thanks!