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Old 11-04-2009, 07:12 AM   #1
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Winterizing a Boxster???

Just wondering what tips you have for winterizing a Boxster (987) from Dec-Apr. in Toronto area? Is it better to start and run/move it a few times a month or store it and leave it for 5 months. Pfaff Porsche in Woodbridge said to store it and leave it, but I am doubting this logic. Any suggestions greatly appreciated for this 'newbie' Porsche owner. Thanks!!!

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Old 11-04-2009, 07:56 AM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by boxsternut
Just wondering what tips you have for winterizing a Boxster (987) from Dec-Apr. in Toronto area? Is it better to start and run/move it a few times a month or store it and leave it for 5 months. Pfaff Porsche in Woodbridge said to store it and leave it, but I am doubting this logic. Any suggestions greatly appreciated for this 'newbie' Porsche owner. Thanks!!!

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Thoroughly clean the car inside and out.

Change oil and filter.

Add Stabil to the tank and fill with gas.

Park it, check the electrolyte level in the battery, and attach a battery maintainer (NOT a trickle charger)

Leave it alone until spring…………do not start it unless you are going to drive it for at least 20 min.......
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Old 11-04-2009, 07:59 AM   #3
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I am a firm believer in the store and leave school. I change the oil, fill the tank and add stabilizer, clean the car, add a few more Lbs. of air in the tires, put some mothballs in and around the car( we live in the country and mice are a problem) , cover it and forget it. The biggest strees on an engine is at startup as the oil film has decreased, leaving it for a month at a time and starting it just for a while serves no purpose and by not getting the car up to operating temp and beyond leaves moisture and pollutants in the oil and moisture in the exhaust system , which reduces the life span of both. I have been storing cars like this for the last 35 years and have had no problem. Ed
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Old 11-04-2009, 08:29 AM   #4
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Thanks Ed and JFP...sounds like store and leave is the desired option. The Porsche dealer sold me a trickle charger that plugs into the cigarette lighter and told me to leave the front hatch closed, but ajar, in case the charger's fuse goes for some reason. Apparently you can't get into the battery compartment if the car's battery if dead....interesting! Appreciate the tips and will try. Can't wait for the spring to come as I've only had my car since start of October and loving it!!!!

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Old 11-04-2009, 12:08 PM   #5
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Store it and leave it alone.

I usually remove my battery and place it on a shelf in the basement. I attach a charger to it at least once a month to keep it topped up. I use the advanced one from Canadian Tire ($69 on sale) that checks the condition etc. I have not lost a battery since then.

Also, when picking it up in the spring, there is an external source to connect to the front trunk release in the fusebox if the trunk has been closed ....

Make sure the tires are over inflated and the vehicle is dry. If you need space ... friend has spaces open in the 401 & Birchmount Rd area ... climate controlled and secure.
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Old 11-04-2009, 12:12 PM   #6
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Disconnecting the battery resets the cars ECU to default settings. Your car will need to re-learn it's mapping next spring. You're better off leaving the battery in the car connected to a maintainer. My friend had all sorts of trouble getting his car to pass emissions after removing the battery due to the ECU reset.
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Old 11-04-2009, 04:19 PM   #7
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Throw on a set of winter tires!! It does snow in Germany.
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Old 11-04-2009, 05:21 PM   #8
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What's the logic in changing the oil before you store it? I would think you'd want to do it after you pull it out of hybernation. Wouldn't there be a chance moisture could form on the inside of the block while sitting for a long period of time? If you change oil before putting it away, that moisture would get in your new oil. If you change it when pulling it out of hybernation, the new oil would be free of moisture.

What am I missing?
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Old 11-04-2009, 06:05 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by husker boxster
What's the logic in changing the oil before you store it? I would think you'd want to do it after you pull it out of hybernation. Wouldn't there be a chance moisture could form on the inside of the block while sitting for a long period of time? If you change oil before putting it away, that moisture would get in your new oil. If you change it when pulling it out of hybernation, the new oil would be free of moisture.

What am I missing?
Contaminates an such in the existing oil will cause problems as it sits over the winter. CLEAN oil is what you want sitting in it ...
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Old 11-04-2009, 08:38 PM   #10
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Any other opinion about changing oil before or after hibernation?
It seems they all make sense, how about what the dealer say?
Is not the new oil sitting over winter months will get contaminated with moisture as well? So, new oil again after winter?
I like to be in oil business....
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Old 11-05-2009, 05:53 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by husker boxster
What's the logic in changing the oil before you store it? I would think you'd want to do it after you pull it out of hybernation. Wouldn't there be a chance moisture could form on the inside of the block while sitting for a long period of time? If you change oil before putting it away, that moisture would get in your new oil. If you change it when pulling it out of hybernation, the new oil would be free of moisture.

What am I missing?
Used oil is loaded with acid and other contaminants that are not good for the alloys used in the M96, plus they further accelerate the break down of the oil, leaving gummy varnish like deposits in the engine............ Store it with fresh oil in it.
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Old 11-05-2009, 05:54 AM   #12
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Change oil prior to storage. I want my engine sitting with fresh oil over the winter.
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Old 11-05-2009, 05:54 AM   #13
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Originally Posted by goodman
Any other opinion about changing oil before or after hibernation?
It seems they all make sense, how about what the dealer say?
Is not the new oil sitting over winter months will get contaminated with moisture as well? So, new oil again after winter?
I like to be in oil business....
You do not need to change it after sitting all winter. UoA's show the oil, providing it was a quality oil and fresh in the first place, is just fine after sitting for months.............
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Old 11-05-2009, 04:01 PM   #14
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Thanks again for all the info. Still haven't made up my mind on the fresh oil before or after the winter. Will check with the Porsche dealer and get back. Won't be putting snows on her though, even though it does snow in Germany...have my snows(H-rated) on the '08 Accord Coupe V6 and can go through almost any bad weather.
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Old 11-05-2009, 04:46 PM   #15
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MORE TIPS:

-Tires should be overfilled to 58 PSI (this is in your manual). I use Nitrogen.
-Park on a sheet of plastic- painters tarp from Home Depot.
-Desiccators in the cabin- keeps air fresh and protects leather and wood.
-Block wheels, don't use e-brake.
-Manually turn engine over in the spring by pushing in 5th gear. You will hear the engine turn over and take big gulps of air.
-I move the car the beginning of every month, by hand, about 10 inches. Further prevents flatspotting.
-First drive of the spring is about 350 miles, and then buy fresh gas.
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Old 11-06-2009, 05:21 AM   #16
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I also change my oil before winter hibernation to remove contaminants suspended within, even though I have approx 2500 miles on the current fill. The moisture accumulated over the winter months will burn right off come the first good drive next spring (with the top down, of course!)
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Old 11-06-2009, 05:41 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Flavor 987S
MORE TIPS:
-I move the car the beginning of every month, by hand, about 10 inches. Further prevents flatspotting.
100% unnecessary. One drive will remove the flt spots, if any.
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Old 11-07-2009, 12:57 PM   #18
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Checked with the Porsche dealer and they said to do the oil change in the spring after hibernation. Interestingly, they said "NOT" to put fuel stabilizer in the tank over the winter...doesn't make sense though!
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Old 11-07-2009, 01:57 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Flavor 987S
MORE TIPS:

-Tires should be overfilled to 58 PSI (this is in your manual). I use Nitrogen.
-Park on a sheet of plastic- painters tarp from Home Depot.
-Desiccators in the cabin- keeps air fresh and protects leather and wood.
-Block wheels, don't use e-brake.
-Manually turn engine over in the spring by pushing in 5th gear. You will hear the engine turn over and take big gulps of air.
-I move the car the beginning of every month, by hand, about 10 inches. Further prevents flatspotting.
-First drive of the spring is about 350 miles, and then buy fresh gas.
Wow, I take the tires up to 50 and throw in fuel stabile... and drop the insurance to storage level. And this year I get to put on a used car cover. Maybe I'm not doing enough? I do use a 78% Nitrogen mix for the tires.
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Old 11-07-2009, 02:32 PM   #20
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Your owners manual tells you to change the oil and run the engine for several minutes before storage.

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