Winterizing a Boxster???

[boxsternut]

Thanks to all who replied. I am changing the oil this weekend, adding stabilizer to a full tank, raising psi's to 50 and plugging in the trickle charger after cleaning the car and putting it's cover on for hibernation!

[blue2000s]

Originally Posted by boxsternut

Thanks to all who replied. I am changing the oil this weekend, adding stabilizer to a full tank, raising psi's to 50 and plugging in the trickle charger after cleaning the car and putting it's cover on for hibernation!

Sounds about right, except you don't want to use a trickle charger, use a battery maintainer like the battery tender jr. And disconnect the battery from the car.

[Dave S.]

That sounds like a good plan. I usually also set up a couple of mouse traps around the car as added protection.

[JFP in PA]

Originally Posted by blue2000s

And disconnect the battery from the car.

Not necessary, particularly if you use a maintainer (like the OEM units) that plugs into the cigarette lighter……………

[blue2000s]

Originally Posted by JFP in PA

Not necessary, particularly if you use a maintainer (like the OEM units) that plugs into the cigarette lighter……………

My battery tender gets hot enough to melt the plastic casing if I leave the battery connected. Current draw can be too high for some maintainers. If you can figure out how to reset the clock, there's no benefit to leaving the battery connected unless you use the cigarette lighter maintainer, which then you have to stay connected of course.

It's actually safest to completely remove the battery from the car in case the maintainer or battery have problems while charging.

[JFP in PA]

Originally Posted by blue2000s

My battery tender gets hot enough to melt the plastic casing if I leave the battery connected. Current draw can be too high for some maintainers. If you can figure out how to reset the clock, there's no benefit to leaving the battery connected unless you use the cigarette lighter maintainer, which then you have to stay connected of course.

It's actually safest to completely remove the battery from the car in case the maintainer or battery have problems while charging.

If that is the case, something is definitely wrong with the car or the maintainer. I have been storing Porsches for more than 30 years, both for myself and customers; none of the maintainers (OEM, CTEK, Deltran, etc.) ever gets more than very slightly warm to the touch when first connected, after which they are nearly room temperature. Sounds like you have an excessive current draw problem…………….

[blue2000s]

Originally Posted by JFP in PA

If that is the case, something is definitely wrong with the car or the maintainer. I have been storing Porsches for more than 30 years, both for myself and customers; none of the maintainers (OEM, CTEK, Deltran, etc.) ever gets more than very slightly warm to the touch when first connected, after which they are nearly room temperature. Sounds like you have an excessive current draw problem…………….

No indication of any other problems. I can leave the car for a month+ and it starts right up.

[boxsternut]

The trickle charger I bought from the Porsche dealer came highly recommended. It plugs into the cigarette lighter and only charges when necessary. They told me in the 987's, there's no need to remove the battery anymore. It cost $80 and has a long cord, which is great for the garage.

[JFP in PA]

Originally Posted by blue2000s

No indication of any other problems. I can leave the car for a month+ and it starts right up.

I just went into the storage area where there are currently 6 cars with maintainers on them. Room temp is 58.5F; non-contact pyrometer check of the maintainers averaged about 68F. Porsche early OEM unit (black box unit) was 68.5F, late model OEM (Ctek type) 68F, and Deltran unit (four car bank) was 69F. If yours is getting hot to the touch, it is because there is a drain in the car's electrical system it is trying to keep up with. Like I said, something is not right.....

[JTP]

Originally Posted by blue2000s

And disconnect the battery from the car.

If you disconnect the battery, make sure the window glass will clear the soft top rail prior to removing battery power, such as leaving both doors open when disconnecting the battery. Seal the open space between the glass and top with foam, cloth or tape.

[boxsternut]

It's done...put away for the winter, resting on a sheet of plastic. Didn't disconnect the battery, as I bought a trickle charger (cigarette lighter)from Porsche. As for the tires, my Michelin Pilot Sport PS2's say max. pressure of 51 psi's, so that's where they are now. Can't wait for spring!!!!!

[Harold_Callahan]

I found a great overview for storing your Boxster. Just a great list.

If you live in an inclement weather area, winter storage of a Porsche Boxster is a major part of your yearly maintenance schedule. You need to learn the correct methods to Winterize Your Porsche Boxster.

-Callahan-

[Flavor 987S]

Originally Posted by boxsternut

Thanks to all who replied. I am changing the oil this weekend, adding stabilizer to a full tank, raising psi's to 50 and plugging in the trickle charger after cleaning the car and putting it's cover on for hibernation!

Check your Owner's Manual. Tires should be 58 PSI.....not 50 PSI. At least this is what mine says.

[boxsternut]

Thanks for the headsup with the PSI's...I'm going to check my tires for their max. pressure rating....they're Michelin Pilots PS2's.

[oriley]

I'm up in Erin, not far from Caledon.
I've stored my 01 Boxster for last 5 years each winter for 6 months.
I fill car to brim with Ultra 94, increase tire pressure to 60psi
I have a cover for the car.
Also park on a large sheet of plastic.

I remove the battery and place a large cloth so the hood cannot close.
I take the battery home, put on a wooden workbench and do not touch until couple days before I'm due to bring car out of storage end of April.
I, too, asked many people about changing oil before or after.
My trusted independent said as soon as it comes out of storage change oil for the driving season. I usually do about 6,000k per season.
Andy

[Flavor 987S]

Originally Posted by boxsternut

Thanks for the headsup with the PSI's...I'm going to check my tires for their max. pressure rating....they're Michelin Pilots PS2's.

I have 19" PS2's and overfill to 58-60 PSI prior to winter storage with Nitrogen.

[boxsternut]

Thanks Andy for your input. Why do you store on a plastic sheet? I just changed my oil yesterday and will winterize this weekend. Will fill tires up to 58psi's. Do you move the car a few inches each month like others have suggested? Also, do you add fuel stabilizer before hibernation? Thanks.
Scott

[Flavor 987S]

^Plastic sheet keeps moisture away from the car's underside, possibly preventing any undue corrosion. I park on plastic too. Buy at Home Depot- painter tarp 3-4 mil.

Yes, use a fuel stabilizer, like Sta-Bil. Run-in the product a few minutes, prior to shut down- so it gets into the entire fuel system. Make the tank as full-full as possible, as this keeps out air and potential condensation/moisture.

I move my car a few inches, at the beginning of each month. One month forward, next month back. Then I do this weekely, the last month of hibernation. Very easy to do. Necessary.....? I don't have any flat spots, so I'll continue to do so. Some tire brands are VERY prone to FS. Mine, are Michellin, and not known to have this issue. But, like I said easy to do, so I'll continue.

[oriley]

As Falvor said, plastic is good.
Unfortunately I cannot store my vehicle at home. It is stored at a commercial facility that stores hundreds of cars/campers/boats, etc.
I never notice flat-spotting after storage with 60psi (obviously reduced when taken from storage); but I do notice flat-spotting for a couple of km if I don't use the car for a week in the summer.
I stored my Miata before Boxster and in 10 years of winter storage have not had any issues.