05-10-2009, 07:40 AM
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#1
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Bastrop, TX
Posts: 705
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Ok, I guess all of this talk about premature engine death had me worried about the temp.
I want to thank all of those who helped, this was not a wasted venture, I cleaned the radiators and flushed the coolent, so not bad.
Also I drilled a 1/2 inch hole through the plastic cover so I would not have to remove the cover just to remove the drain plug.
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2002 S
Pedro rear stabilizer bar, CF strut braces, Maxspeed headers with 100 cell cats, Fabspeed cat bypass pipes, H&R springs with M030 setup, TRG rear links, EVO air intake, B&M Short shift kit, Raby IMS upgrade, Raby underdrive pulley
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05-10-2009, 11:04 AM
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#2
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Guelph, Ontario
Posts: 131
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mine fluctuate around that area too. You might need some gas too
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01 Boxster - Lapis Blue - Aerokit II Daily Driver.
98 Pontiac sunfire - Winter beater- TRADED IT IN FOR 200 DOLLARS
2010 Honda Civic Coupe - Gunmetal Grey - Lease ended and returned
2011 Mercedes Benz GLK350 - Gunmetal Grey
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05-10-2009, 11:38 AM
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#3
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Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: It's a kind of magic.....
Posts: 6,617
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jhandy
Also I drilled a 1/2 inch hole through the plastic cover so I would not have to remove the cover just to remove the drain plug.
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Sorry, but putting a hole is the belly pan is somewhat of a waste of time, as you still need to pull it to disconnect the foward hoses and drain the radiatiors as well. No sense in doing half the job once the car is in the air................
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05-10-2009, 05:45 PM
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#4
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Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Illinois
Posts: 147
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The disparity is that in the engine there are areas that will have higher localized temperatures. It would appear they read the temperature somewhere that is more stable and the OBD2 provides a temperature that more easily deviates from the baseline. I've seen the OBD2 read 240F when the dash said only 215F when I had a HUGE airlock in the cooling system impeding cooling).
__________________
Charles Navarro
President, LN Engineering and Bilt Racing Service
http://www.LNengineering.com
Home of Nickies, IMS Retrofit, and IMS Solution
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05-10-2009, 05:49 PM
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#5
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Porsche "Purist"
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 2,123
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Get rid of that EVO intake since your intake air is 141 degrees.....
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1998 Boxster with 7.8 DME, 2005 3.6 liter/325 hp, Variocam Plus, 996 Instrument panel
2001 Boxster original owner. I installed used motor at 89k.
1987 924S. 2002 996TT. PST-2
Owned and repaired Porsches since 1974. Porsche: It's not driving, it's therapy.
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06-06-2009, 02:51 PM
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#6
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Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: uk
Posts: 1
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New owner, needs a little advice
Hi, noticed this thread and thought you'd be able to help. I picked up my 2004 Boxster s this week and haven't stopped grinning. However this week has been unseasonably hot in the UK and I've noticed the temp. needle move more than I'd think was normal.
My question relates to the rad fans, do they come on together? or sequentially?
If sequential which one comes on first, I noticed below that you say the passenger one comes on first. My car is RHD so assume the drivers side one should come on first.
I've not noticed the left rad fan working on my car and was wondering if this may be why the needle moves more than expected. Could I simply crosswire the fuses for a while to see left hand fan spins up.
Thanks in advance for any help you can provide.
Phil
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06-06-2009, 07:48 PM
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#7
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Bastrop, TX
Posts: 705
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start the car, and turn on the AC. Both fans should start up. more or less together.
Now, turn off the ac and drive, the fans should both turn on at 210-215ish. Mine turn on at 214-215. They both start more or less the same time. The fans are known to go out, so if the AC or high temp does not turn them on, replace.
If you have not done it, take off bumper and mobilize the first radiators. You will be amazed what is in between the two radiators. Buy redline water wetter. 5$ it can only help.
if all seems normal, look to the thermostat or water pump. Pumps seems to go slowly them BAM, overheat.
if you are going to replace the thermostat, might as well get the low temp one from flat6inovations. and if you are going that far, take off the pump and look at the cheap impeller, spin the bearings, replace it if concerned.
And if you are going through all of that, might as well change the fluid. Texaco extended or OEM fluid are great.
How hot does it get?
__________________
2002 S
Pedro rear stabilizer bar, CF strut braces, Maxspeed headers with 100 cell cats, Fabspeed cat bypass pipes, H&R springs with M030 setup, TRG rear links, EVO air intake, B&M Short shift kit, Raby IMS upgrade, Raby underdrive pulley
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