Giving Up.... :(

[macyfilms]

Originally Posted by blue2000s

Yes. You can just disconnect the leads to the switch and short them by running a wire between them. It's actually better for the engine to not press the clutch in while starting anyway so I've got my switch bypassed on all my cars.

Just make sure you don't have the car in gear when you start it.

Okay, I'm going to bypass. If this is not my problem, is there anything else you can think of? I'm running out of ideas. I'm wondering if my immobilizer is shutting me down and I just don't see any damage. Perhaps after sitting so long w/o any battery juice, the system no longer recognizes my key?

sam

[blue2000s]

Originally Posted by macyfilms

Okay, I'm going to bypass. If this is not my problem, is there anything else you can think of? I'm running out of ideas. I'm wondering if my immobilizer is shutting me down and I just don't see any damage. Perhaps after sitting so long w/o any battery juice, the system no longer recognizes my key?

sam

Have you tried bypassing the ignition and running power directly to the starter? Easy test with a set of jumper cables.

[macyfilms]

Originally Posted by blue2000s

Have you tried bypassing the ignition and running power directly to the starter? Easy test with a set of jumper cables.

I connected the posts at the starter/solenoid and the engine cranked like a champ.

The history:

Battery: replaced AND charged for 24 hours.
Ignition switch: replaced.
Clutch switch: checked, appears to be going in and out and clicking accordingly.
Fuses: all appear good.
Relays: seem okay. switched out relay with same #, still no crank.
Immobilizer: opened box under seat; no obvious sign of any damage of any sort.
Starter: tested, spins fast.
Solenoid/Starter: Cranks engine hard and fast.
Analyzer readout: no problem codes.
Key: appears good; "capsule" inside appears fine.

[blue2000s]

Originally Posted by macyfilms

I connected the posts at the starter/solenoid and the engine cranked like a champ.

The history:

Battery: replaced AND charged for 24 hours.
Ignition switch: replaced.
Clutch switch: checked, appears to be going in and out and clicking accordingly.
Fuses: all appear good.
Relays: seem okay. switched out relay with same #, still no crank.
Immobilizer: opened box under seat; no obvious sign of any damage of any sort.
Starter: tested, spins fast.
Solenoid/Starter: Cranks engine hard and fast.
Analyzer readout: no problem codes.
Key: appears good; "capsule" inside appears fine.

Sorry I missed that part. Sure sounds like an immobilizer problem.

[Paul]

Bypassing the switch will at least disable your cruise contol. Bypass it to test or use a VOM, if bad replace it.

[Paul]

I assume this problem started BEFORE you replaced the ignition switch?

[macyfilms]

Originally Posted by Paul

I assume this problem started BEFORE you replaced the ignition switch?

Yes, the problem started before i replaced the switch. The switch was very sticky and stubborn, so I was hopeful that this was the problem. An fyi for other readers, while Porsche would only sell me the whole assembly for $160, Audi sold me just the switch for $40.

A silly question I imagine, but can the immobilizer be tested? can it be by passed? Or am I stuck going to the dealer on this one?

sam

[blue2000s]

Originally Posted by Paul

Bypassing the switch will at least disable your cruise contol. Bypass it to test or use a VOM, if bad replace it.

I never noticed, shows how much I use the cruise control.