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Old 12-19-2004, 08:36 AM   #1
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Experience with Stoneguard Headlights Protector?

Does anyone has them on? I just got mine and they're a pain to install properly without getting any bubbles underneath them

I was tempted to try the soap/water method which worked perfectly for all my car stickers. However, as this was not mentioned in the instructions, I did not try it. Figured it may leave marks since this stuff is clear and not opaque like stickers.

I'm surprised at how thick they are. I'm just worried the headlights will overheat with them on. I know Porsche does NOT recommend them.

Any comments on this overheating issue? I know I should've asked here before I bought them

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Old 12-19-2004, 02:27 PM   #2
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I used to get fix-it tickets all the time in the past from having my front windows tinted. I quickly learned from the tint shops how to remove and apply tint. If the Stoneguard stuff is the same then here's how I would do it...

1. Mix in a spray bottle 3-4 pea-sized drops of Palmolive dishwashing detergent with about 16 ounces of water. The detergent acts as a lubricant and keeps the water from evaporating too quickly.

2. Clean window thoroughly.

3. Spray film with detergent/water mix.

4. Spray window with detergent/water mix.

5. Use a Bondo spreader as a squeegee. Work from the center out and you should be able to get rid of all the bubbles.

6. Let it sit in the sun so the detergent/water under the film can evaporate.

If there's a water-activated adhesive on the Stoneguard film like it is on tint, then I'm guessing it's shot since you've already tried applying it once.

About the overheating issue...
I highly doubt it. Otherwise it would be happening to all of the Stoneguard lens covers. Porsche halogens don't get any hotter than other makes and if you have Litronics I believe the HID's run a bit cooler.
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Old 12-19-2004, 07:42 PM   #3
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If your adhesive is gone, look into using something like 3M Spray-77 or its big brother Spray-90. 3M claims it is transparent. The 77 is similar to the post-it note stuff but in a spray form and more tacky. The 90 is similar only much more tacky. I'm not too sure how this stuff handles water, I've seen it loose tack when wet on occasion.

Lux, is there something like this that is waterproof or specifically for automotive uses? The things I do similar to this (appliqué installation) usually remain inside and live in a much friendlier environment than the front of a car.

If nothing else Spray-77 is one of those million and one household uses things. It is just about as useful as duck tape. If you have a can at home you'll find yourself using it for all sorts of stuff. I believe there is also a cheap Elmer’s Glue knock off that is not as toxic and less tacky.
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Old 12-20-2004, 07:51 AM   #4
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I was told HID although it uses less power (35W) actually generates more heat than conventional halogen. Oh well, we shall see in due time

On the subject of using soap water, I think I may just give it a try on the other side. I've only tried sticking 1 side on Think soap water should be transparent and not remain visible after it dries. Come to think of it, that's how the guys here apply heat shielding to my windscreen of my previous car. Plenty of soap water on the inside of the windscreen and some squegee and heat with a hair dryer

The Stoneguard instructions actually says if there's air bubbles present, the Stoneguard can be peeled off and reapplied. Let's hope it's true...
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Old 12-20-2004, 12:31 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally posted by QporscheQ

Lux, is there something like this that is waterproof or specifically for automotive uses? The things I do similar to this (appliqué installation) usually remain inside and live in a much friendlier environment than the front of a car.

3M has a variety of PSA (pressure sensitive adhesive) that should meet your needs. They range from the very low tack (e.g. Post-It notes) to fastener replacement strength (e.g. mounting spoilers on cars, etc.). A PSA that I use a lot is 3M's VHB (very high bond). It's essentially permanent once it cures. If you go to 3M's website, there's a bunch of product spec sheets that you can look at. You can also call them up and speak with an applications engineer that can guide you to the correct product for your application.
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Old 12-20-2004, 12:53 PM   #6
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Thanks. I figured there was something. Most of the stuff we lay down comes prelaminated with some sort of adhesive already on it. I dont really know what it is, but I would guess it is a 3M PSA like you mentioned. We use the 77 and 90 when stuff looses its tack for some reason and needs to be put back down.
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Old 12-20-2004, 02:03 PM   #7
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They came with my used Boxster. as well as full stone guard for the bumper hood, mirrors and gas tank lid.
Make sure to use Plexus to clean the plastic film.
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Old 12-21-2004, 08:31 AM   #8
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Lux thanks for the info. I've been looking for some reusable panels for Autocrossing. Behind and in front of the wheel wells
front fenders, Full hood (I only have partial hood coverage) and maybe even really big pieces for my doors.
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Old 12-22-2004, 07:49 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally posted by Lux
I used to get fix-it tickets all the time in the past from having my front windows tinted. I quickly learned from the tint shops how to remove and apply tint. If the Stoneguard stuff is the same then here's how I would do it...
cooler.
Damn it!! The Stoneguard thing is NOT the same ( I'm not blaming you Just thought I'll let everyone know. Read your post, remembered the local guys here doing exactly what you described for the window tint on my previous car and figured "What the hell, if it works for the window tint, it'll work for Stoneguard". And I'm WRONG

Stoneguard is a lot thicker (about 2mm) than the standard window tint film. For some reason, the soapy solution caused more micro bubbles to form than the other side which I applied dry.

I'll just have to wait for it to really dry out before passing any final judgement. But I'm not hopeful...
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Old 12-22-2004, 09:15 AM   #10
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It can be done without the soap and water, you just really really need to take your time. Is it repositionable? Or are you stuck with what you have? I was looking at a similar product the other day in a catalog that said it was removable and repositionable.
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Old 12-22-2004, 09:19 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally posted by QporscheQ
Is it repositionable?
Yes, it can be peeled off. Tried today without much difficulty. Just that I'll need to be really careful not to leave any fingerprints on it. But I seriously doubt I can get rid of the micro bubbles. You gotta see them to appreciate the situation.

I had the headlight on the table to do this and took about a good half hour per headlamp. But maybe I'm just bad in these things
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Old 12-22-2004, 10:58 AM   #12
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If you are worried about fingerprints go get some latex surgical gloves.

Good Luck. I feel your pain, believe me.
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Old 12-22-2004, 11:04 AM   #13
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I think I recall someone telling about using a hair dryer to get out airbubles with the squeegee thingy. I think they were putting racing stripes on a Miata. The stripes were made of 3M vinyl.
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Old 12-23-2004, 10:56 AM   #14
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I've seen that too. It came out looking really really good. They used a special hot air gun though. Id be really carefull with a normal hair dryer, as some of them are very hot.

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