Thinking of buying a Boxster ? - MUST READ !

[recycledsixtie]

I have sent you a pm....and thanks for the interest.

[southernstar]

The incredible variance in the longevity of various mechanical components experienced by members on this site got me thinking about the causes. Some people are able to get almost 200,000 miles out of a water pump, others need multiple replacements in 100,000 miles. Some experience early CV joint failure, whereas many get well over 100,000 miles out of the original ones. Some need clutch replacements at 30 to 40,000 miles, others have their original clutch at 150,000 miles. Some need replacement of their suspension components at 60-70,000 miles, others not until 120,000 or more. Some suffer transmission failures, whereas others have no difficulties for a quarter of a million miles or more! The list goes on and on.

I cannot believe that production variances at Porsche are that extreme and hence, I have to believe that there are other causes. Of course, proper maintenance schedules including more frequent than recommended oil changes are important. However, just as important IMO is the way the car has been driven. There seems to be prevailing, or at least common attitude amongst owners that you should drive your Porsche 'like you stole it'. Hard and without sympathy for the mechanicals. The result, I suggest, is bound to be premature breakages and failures of many components.

High-rev starts and participating in stop-light drag races are not, I suggest, what these cars were designed for. The result is bound to be increased strain on not only the tires, but the CV joints and transmissions. Rapid upshifts are also going to put undue strain on the synchronizers and eventually, the gears themselves. Mis-matched rpms on downshifts are also going to contribute to wear on the CV joints and transmission. Indeed, sloppy shifting can result in hitting a lower gear than intended on an up or downshift and over-revving of the engine. And we know what that can lead to!!!!

Inexpert driving can often lead to curbs being hit. Yes, it contributes to 'road rash' on the rims, but it also puts strain on the suspension and steering components and creates problems with suspension alignment.

Of course, it is not only driving a car 'like you stole it' that can contribute to increased wear and tear on the mechanicals - inexpertly riding the clutch and lugging an engine that is designed to rev is also bound to contribute to early failures in the clutch and engine.

Where you drive is also bound to be a significant factor. Driving regularly over train-tracks and potholes (and especially doing so quickly) will put great strain on suspension and steering components. Using your car primarily for short jaunts to the mall will also contribute to wear to the engine - short runs mean a substantial amount of the use will be prior to the engine warming up. This will lead to condensation in the oil and problems beyond the door knicks and dings which often accompany that type of use.

Prior to driving the car that I ultimately purchased, the 70 year old owner got in the driver's seat and drove the car until it was completely warmed up. He shifted expertly, double-clutching all downshifts and not rushing his upshifts. At one point we crossed some railroad tracks and he slowed to virtually a crawl. He did not lug the engine, but he also did not rev above 3000 rpms until the car was fully warmed up. His takeoffs from stops were smooth and efficient. When we switched drivers, I was almost embarrased at my own efforts to drive smoothly in a car with which I was unfamiliar.

He told me that he drove the car primarily in the country on weekends and that he avoided malls and parking lots like the plague. The COMPLETE absence of knicks, dings or scratches on the doors and fenders provided substantial corroboration for that claim. So too did the complete absence of road-rash on the rims. He claimed that the car was never driven in the winter and that he kept a rigorous maintenance schedule. He had all bills for his years of ownership, showing 6 to-8000 km (4-5,000 miles) a year and oil changes every March or April, when the car was put back on the road. These records and the timing of his oil changes also tended to confirm that the vehicle was not winter driven.

The upshot? Apart from regular maintenance and having to replace my ignition switch, my car has been trouble free during my two years of ownership and 16,000 km. I cannot help but believe that the care and expertise he exhibited during the test drive were representative of how he drove the car at all times. Not like he 'stole it', but as a careful owner who was sympatico with the car's mechanicals and took pride in operating it quickly, but also smoothly and expertly. So yes, I suggest that before you take the wheel, you ask the seller to take YOU out for a test drive.

Brad

[litespeedp]

So very wisely written southernstar! Every point you made is spot on.Sounds like a great car you have.

[TripleTrophy]

I am looking at buying used. I have a Porsche specialist tentatively lined up for a PPI, and possibly oil change and filter cut, depending on the maintenance of the car(s) I end up looking at. Out of curiosity, if someone had done a recent oil change, how long for the chips to show up in a new filter? Should I be suspicious of a very recent oil change? Also, where do I find the serial number on the engine, if I wanted to check if it has been swapped out?

I have visions of driving it to get it inspected and the engine blowing up on me, but that is probably just paranoia.

Right now there is a black 2002 S calling me with 29 K miles on it, I found a 2001 S with 84K miles for $5K less, but I am not sure I like the color or the miles.

Thanks in advance.

[recycledsixtie]

Originally Posted by TripleTrophy

I am looking at buying used. I have a Porsche specialist tentatively lined up for a PPI, and possibly oil change and filter cut, depending on the maintenance of the car(s) I end up looking at. Out of curiosity, if someone had done a recent oil change, how long for the chips to show up in a new filter? Should I be suspicious of a very recent oil change? Also, where do I find the serial number on the engine, if I wanted to check if it has been swapped out?

I have visions of driving it to get it inspected and the engine blowing up on me, but that is probably just paranoia.

Right now there is a black 2002 S calling me with 29 K miles on it, I found a 2001 S with 84K miles for $5K less, but I am not sure I like the color or the miles.

Thanks in advance.

A couple of things I would suggest. I don't have all the answers here. When you test drive a car, before you start it , turn key on before starting to make sure all warning lites illuminate especially the CEL light. If the CEL lite does not illuminate before starting, then I would suggest you walk. Once started all lites should extinguish.

I would think that if the oil filter had been changed and the ims bearing was grinding then there would be more metal. Still a good idea to drop the filter and check it.

Try different Boxsters. In 10k miles my 2001 base Boxster makes a lot more rattles and different noises than when I got it. If the PPI is satisfactory to you and has problems you can either walk or deduct the cost of repairs off the asking price.If you or the owner drives it to the PPI place, if it implodes it still is not your car so you are not responsible except if your are negligent(overrev etc). Others will chime in. Good luck with your purchase. It is a fun car!

[Steve Tinker]

The engine number is on the passenger side of the engine, on the lower block just above the oil pan joint. You will need a flash light and a clean rag or steel wool to see it without removing the R/H/side rear wheel....

[southernstar]

http://986forum.com/forums/general-discussions/48370-would-you-do-again.html

Above is a link to a discussion as to whether current owners would buy another Boxster.. IMO, this is possibly the best way to assess owner satisfaction. Bearing in mind the age of the original 986's, the IMS issues and the cost of maintenance in relation to garden variety cars, the percentage who have no regrets is pretty impressive!

Brad

[recycledsixtie]

to this forum and want to research something before asking the members, I would suggest that you use the search function to look for answers first. It is quite likely if you have a generic question such as which oil, which filter, which tires etc then the answers may already be in past threads. You have to be a member first before you can do a search.

Thanks for reading this!

[358Ron]

Just picked up an 03 Boxster S. Everything was perfect about the car except the tires. They have tread left but they are older tires. A lot of vibration, and very harsch ride. I'm looking to get new tires. This csr has the 18" Carrera wheels on it. Wondering if there was a tire available that would give a softer ride and some performance. Not looking to race car, live in South, not driving in snow........

[BruceH]

Originally Posted by 358Ron

Just picked up an 03 Boxster S. Everything was perfect about the car except the tires. They have tread left but they are older tires. A lot of vibration, and very harsch ride. I'm looking to get new tires. This csr has the 18" Carrera wheels on it. Wondering if there was a tire available that would give a softer ride and some performance. Not looking to race car, live in South, not driving in snow........

I have 18's and put Michelin Pilot Super Sports on. Much quieter and smoother than the tires that were on there. Lots of threads on here about tires. Also, Tire Rack has great comparisons on their web site. Many on here like the Hankooks. Here is a Car and Driver article: Tire Test: Nine Affordable Summer Tires Take On the Michelin PS2 Comparison Tests - Page 10 - Car and Driver

Welcome to the forum and we need pictures or it didn't happen

[recycledsixtie]

good a used Boxster is? I will give you an example using my car as an example.
45k miles, 2001 Boxster base and no CEL.

What could possibly go wrong? CEL light is out as it has been reset. I have changed the oil filter to get rid of the green pieces . Code P1341 I have been assured will come back after a long drive. 100 miles?

I personally could not sell my car in this condition but am sure many could and will.

Guy.

[southernstar]

Guy, that is no different than any other used car from any other manufacturer - it is always a caveat emptor situation unless you know the car and current owner.
Of course, it is another reason that a thorough PPI is so important. I had a PPI conducted on my car and, when all else was positive, paid for an oil/filter change so that we could inspect (cutting the filter in half) for particulate matter.

Brad

[Giller]

Edmonds and Consumer Reports still give props to Boxsters for their reliability, even older ones. That being said, any car that gets into double digits of age are going to have some challenges and expenses. And no matter how well kept a car is - 13 years is 13 years and something could go wrong tomorrow, no matter how much preventive maintenance you do.

[guesswecan777]

What should I look at besides mileage when buying a second hand boxster?

[schnellman]

Lots of horror stories on this blog. I've had my '98 Box for six years now and she's never asked for anything other than routine maintenance.

[roux]

Until I'm still thinking if it is worth buying.

[KyleBus]

2001 Boxster 5spd with 91K miles

2001 Porsche Boxster 5spd

I would appreciate some other peoples opinions on weather I should go for it and buy it, or if there are too many miles on it.

Thanks in advance!

[thstone]

Originally Posted by KyleBus

2001 Boxster 5spd with 91K miles

2001 Porsche Boxster 5spd

I would appreciate some other peoples opinions on weather I should go for it and buy it, or if there are too many miles on it.

Thanks in advance!

To start, 97K miles isn't too many.

What matters is how well the car was cared for during those 97K miles;

Is the owner offering any repair history or receipts? That will tell you that the car was well cared for. Its not a deal killer if they don't have that info, more of a bonus.

Regardless, get a Pre-Purchase Inspection (PPI) from a reputable Porsche specialist (independent or dealer). That will be the best $300 you ever spend. They will be able to tell you exactly what you're getting into.

Despite the affordable purchase prices these days, a Boxster can be somewhat expensive to maintain and repair. The rule of thumb is to budget $2,000 per year for maintenance and repairs. You might not need that much, but better to have it than not.

Also, consider doing some of the maintenance/repairs yourself. Boxster's are not hard to work on and there are tons of instructions on how to do everything from change the oil to rebuilding the engine. You can save quite a bit on costs this way.

Either way, find a competent, reasonably priced local Porsche independent repair shop. They will become your best friend.

Do some searches on this Forum about "PPI" and whatever else you're wondering about and you'll find a lot of good, constructive discussion.

Be sure to do a search on "intermediate shaft bearing failure" or "IMS bearing failure". This failure can affect a small percentage of Boxster engines. There are replacement parts that will mitigate the risk. You'll need to educate yourself on this subject.

A Boxster is one of the best handling cars in the world and it will put a huge grin on your face every time that you get in the car. Guaranteed.

Best of luck and I hope that you join us soon!

[78F350]

The only thing I would add to what thstone says, is that from reading through the ad, it mentions a crack in the paint on the rear quarter: That may be nothing, but to me it implies body work from a collision repair that may have been done cheaply. All the more reason for a good PPI.
Overall it looks very nice and well cared for in the listing.

[KyleBus]

Originally Posted by thstone

Despite the affordable purchase prices these days, a Boxster can be somewhat expensive to maintain and repair. The rule of thumb is to budget $2,000 per year for maintenance and repairs. You might not need that much, but better to have it than not.

Thanks for the response! What type of maintenance and repairs should I be expecting yearly?