Paint Correction - Help? - 986 Forum - The Community for Porsche Boxster & Cayman Owners

OldBlevins · 10-28-2007, 07:39 AM

I've been working to correct a paint problem that's only visible when the light is reflected at just the right angle. I've stripped the wax, claybarred the car, and am using Menzerna Intensive Polish with my Griots Orbital polisher (orange cutting pad).

It has helped a little, but the spots are not coming out. I believe the previous owner may have let the car get rained on without any wax and these are water spots, but I'm not certain. I can keep polishing and hope I don't go through to the primer (arg), accept it, or try another approach. Any suggestions?

Reynard · 10-28-2007, 11:43 AM

This is gutsy, but it has worked for me.

Lightly color sand the area with 2000 grit and water.

Rubout with a light liquid rubbing compound using your obital.

Then seal and wax with your obital.

You should see positive results as you rubout and then use step 3.

Process can be repeated ... remember to use light pressure during sanding, plenty of water and sand only in one direction.

Good luck ... let me know the result.

fatmike · 10-28-2007, 01:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by OldBlevins

I've been working to correct a paint problem that's only visible when the light is reflected at just the right angle. I've stripped the wax, claybarred the car, and am using Menzerna Intensive Polish with my Griots Orbital polisher (orange cutting pad).

It has helped a little, but the spots are not coming out. I believe the previous owner may have let the car get rained on without any wax and these are water spots, but I'm not certain. I can keep polishing and hope I don't go through to the primer (arg), accept it, or try another approach. Any suggestions?

Manzerna IP is a moderately agressive polish. I would certainly consider a more agressive polish and pad combo (and more time on the Orbital on a higher speed) prior to wet sanding.

I am not familiar with the Griots buffer -- can I assume its a multi-speed device that you are running on high enough speed?

Good luck. Let us know how it comes out.

OldBlevins · 10-28-2007, 01:47 PM

Thanks Reynard and fatmike. I've been running the Griots at top speed, but went back and kept at it with more polish and a little less pressure for more pad-speed. I've also sprayed water on while I've been polishing. It's taken a couple of hours, but that's gotten most of the spots out of the front trunk and fender tops. The paint's not perfect, but it's a heckuva lot better than it was, and I still have several other things to do on it (applying Werkstatt Prime Strong, then Acrylic Jett Trigger to seal the paint. Then tomorrow I'll start waxing. Then it'll be time to pull out the lawn chair.

It's kind of weird. I'm pretty sure these are water spots since they're only on the horizontal surfaces and not on the sides of the car. But on the back trunk, there are only the normal swirl marks that I shouldn't have any trouble with. It's like half the car was under cover or it was only half-waxed.

fatmike · 10-28-2007, 04:56 PM

[QUOTE=OldBlevins]Then tomorrow I'll start waxing. Then it'll be time to pull out the lawn chair.

QUOTE]

I prefer Zaino Z-5 sealant to a traditional wax. It has some "hiding" properties to it. Search this forum for the steps I followed to detail my basalt black. I posted some pictures of the results recently. Z-5 is particularly effective on darker paint.

People have had a hard time using it after Manzerna IP. I used both with no problem. Just wash your car in-between.

Also, I hope you didn't get any polish splattered on your top...

OldBlevins · 10-28-2007, 05:17 PM

Thanks for the tip - I've heard a lot of good references to the Zaino. I've been following a procedure recommended by Perfectlap although, being married, I now know there's more than one right way to do things. :dance: I've finished the polishing, and am now working it over with Werkstatt Prime Strong to clean it (two applications) and it's looking really good. Tomorrow I'll seal it with Acrylic Jett Trigger and after that's cured overnight, I'll start waxing.

Interesting you should remark on the polish and the top. This was my first experience with an orbital polisher. Immediately spattered polish on the top, a tire, much of the rest of the car, my pants and my shoes - then realized I need to start and stop the polisher while it's in contact with the surface of the car.

I Very Quickly wiped it off the top with a damp rag and it came right off. Probably fortunate the top was well-treated with RaggTopp protectant.

Perfectlap · 10-29-2007, 06:20 AM

I think that's about as good as its going to get with the Griots. You might try a red cutting pad and apply moderate pressure, the sides of the pad should bulge around the backing plate, give that shot before you throw in the towel. Even with my PC 7424 which has more torque than the Griots or Ultimate detailing machine, I have to work it VERY slowly, taking at least an hour+ to do the whole car. And does that PC shake, my forearms are numb for a day.
It all depends on the maximum torque of the buffer. I think the Cyclo has the most torque of an orbital without having to step up to a full on rotary. I'm going to trade in my PC for a Cyclo.

Getting out Swirls video (make sure to watch the 'what causes hazing' clip, shows common errors by newbies.

OldBlevins · 10-29-2007, 09:10 AM

Thanks, Pefectlap - It took me about 6 hours with the Griot's to get the results I wanted, but I feel like it was worth it. Last night I finished cleaning the polish and crud off with the Werkstatt Prime Strong and the car looks spectacular. Tonight I'll seal it and once that's cured it's time to start waxing.

In fairness to the Griot's, it was the water spots that took the bulk of the time - ordinary swirls came out pretty fast.

Since this is my first experience with an orbital polisher, it's probably just as well I got one without a lot of torque. That probably limits the damage I can do. As I get better, I may move up to the Cyclo.

I really appreciate your taking the time to share the step-by-step info on how to tackle this job. It was kind of daunting at first, but you provided enough detail I felt comfortable going for it. I'll post a picture or two when I'm done.

Perfectlap · 10-29-2007, 09:51 AM

Not sure if I mentioned this but in case anyone else is reading... try this method for waxing, helps reduce friction, elbow grease and give a better result imo.

1- spray the surface with a quick detailer (I like FK1 425)
2-apply your paste wax of choice with a foam applicator, spread the wax evenly (not in circles). The quick detailer sort fo "melts" the wax evenly.
3-let it dry while you start the 2nd panel.
4-respray the 1st panel
5-using speed, not pressure, buff out.

try using a super soft buffing towel if you have one. Or use the short (non-furry) side of a microfiber towel. Waffle weave is great too. If your layering, let it cure for at least 6 hours.