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Old 05-03-2007, 09:49 PM   #1
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What is 'bench bleeding'? The Bentley Manual says that after replacing the Master bled the slave for at least 30 seconds to ensure that there is no air. The Manual also states to bled the Slave after it is replaced as well.
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Old 05-04-2007, 10:16 AM   #2
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I found that the replacement part # is 8EO.721.257.F BUT it says that I could need the updated line and union,anyone know what that is about?

Here is a pic;
https://www.************************************************************/secure/PartImages/8E0721257F.jpg

It looks easy to do,so I will drive the car as is till I have the time to change it out.
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Old 05-04-2007, 11:46 AM   #3
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I took this pic just in case anyone is going to bleed their own clutch in the future, all other pics or drawing I've seen are craptastic. This is what the bleeder nipple and valve looks like,enjoy.
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Old 09-15-2007, 11:56 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blinkwatt
I took this pic just in case anyone is going to bleed their own clutch in the future, all other pics or drawing I've seen are craptastic. This is what the bleeder nipple and valve looks like,enjoy.
Thank you!!! Found the photo half way through flushing the brakes and it saved me a ton of time trying to decipher a cryptic schematic.
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Old 05-04-2007, 11:51 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blinkwatt
What is 'bench bleeding'? The Bentley Manual says that after replacing the Master bled the slave for at least 30 seconds to ensure that there is no air. The Manual also states to bled the Slave after it is replaced as well.

Thats what bench bleeding it, its an older term for bleeding the air out of cyclindars before you isntall them. Basically have the parts suck up fluid and force out the air.
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Old 05-04-2007, 12:50 PM   #6
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Hi,

The hydraulic line will have a Flare Nut fitting on it. The ones on the Calipers are 10mm, so I assume it's the same.

The change in Line and Union probably notes a change to whatever Nut is currently used and you most likely have to swap them all out...

Happy Motoring!... Jim'99
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Old 05-04-2007, 01:03 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MNBoxster
Hi,

The hydraulic line will have a Flare Nut fitting on it. The ones on the Calipers are 10mm, so I assume it's the same.

The change in Line and Union probably notes a change to whatever Nut is currently used and you most likely have to swap them all out...

Happy Motoring!... Jim'99
Jim,

It looks like my hydraulic line is held in by a push pin,see my pic,that's my exact one from my car. I was told that there are two types of hydraulic lines,the push pin and from what you say a flare nut fitting. The pic looks like a push pin design,please correct me if I'm wrong.

This is the part I will be changing it out with;
https://www.************************************************************/secure/PartImages/8E0721257F.jpg

Why in the world does Porsche use several different parts for the same application?
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Old 05-23-2007, 01:27 PM   #8
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Hi, Last weekend i visited a friend who is the proud owner of a 2003 Boxster S and a 1999 base model, he went for a ride in my car and noticed that the clutch needed a little more effort to push down compared to his 2 cars.

Has anyone compared the 1997 to the other years and notice any difference or is there maintenance to be done on my clutch.

Thanks

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Old 05-23-2007, 01:31 PM   #9
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The clutches are different from 97'-99' compared to 00'+,so I would think they would feel a little bit different. How many miles are on your clutch,perhaps it's getting old(but not to the point of replacement)?
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Old 05-23-2007, 01:38 PM   #10
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Thanks Blinkwatt, My car has 64000 KM, what made you change those parts out
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Old 05-04-2007, 12:54 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blinkwatt
What is 'bench bleeding'? The Bentley Manual says that after replacing the Master bled the slave for at least 30 seconds to ensure that there is no air. The Manual also states to bled the Slave after it is replaced as well.

Hi,

Bench Bleeding is just what it says. With the Master on a Bench (usually held in a vice), you bleed it by adding fluid to the reservoir (in this case a line) and push the Pushrod until all the bubbles come out of the Line end. These things usually come with plastic caps and once you have done this, you replace the plastic caps to hold the fluid in. You still have to bleed the thing again to purge any air from the Line once it's installed, but if you haven't previously bled the air from the bore, it isn't alays possible to do so after installation because of orientation, or height vs the height of the Slave, which is what I suspect. Hope this helps...

Happy Motoring!... Jim'99
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