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Old 10-15-2018, 10:53 AM   #6
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Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: FL
Posts: 4,079
Originally Posted by Starter986 View Post

Should I be concerned about that "air" compromising any brake modules or whathaveyou... necessitating bringing it to a mechanic to clear any codes associated with ABS or other brake technology?
I don't think so, I think the ABS modules and TC/PSM are "upstream" of the brake lines. I think those get air if folks let the brake fluid reservoir get too low when bleeding/flushing and push air down into the lines from the top. Also can happen when changing the master cylinder.

Originally Posted by Starter986 View Post

My approach will be to prepare the car... have all the tool(s) in order and ready... then removing the existing rubber lines... installing the SS lines... then bleeding. When installing the new lines should I start from the furthest line working forward? Anything which I should consider or otherwise be aware of before I commence? I'm not a fan of surprises.

Thank you!
I think you could change the lines in any order. Then when done bleed/flush from the furthest working to closest.

I tried to do mine way back using some cheap amazon flare wrenches and they didn't inspire confidence. I then got 2 used snap-on flare wrenches from ebay covering 9-12 mm and have had better luck with those.

Some of the fittings are probably going to be on there very tight so be aware of that.

I put on stainless lines a few years back, and both fronts subsequently failed right above where it joined to the caliper hardline (one failed in my driveway, and the 2nd one failed in the parking lot at the hotel when I was at Road Atlanta, thank goodness it didn't fail when I was on track), I think because I had twisted them to get the flared ends that hold it in place to line up. So loosely test fit your lines, I thought they were symmetrical but there might just be "one way" that they go one. It may have been that I just had a cheap/wrong brand, I bought them from someone that never installed them, so who knows what brand they were, how old they were etc... I have since got back to ATE brand OEM style rubber lines They have been working out for me.

I think I must have gotten some bad/wrong ones or I somehow installed them very wrong, as I don't know of anyone else that had this problem. So don't let that scare you, but if something feels wrong or you have to twist the line a lot to get it to line up, stop and see if there is a different way.
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