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steved0x · 08-30-2016, 06:44 AM

#9 is what I am calling LCA (Lower control arm, also called coffin arm). That ball joint can be a b**** to remove. You may be able to only remove the #12 bolt to lower the wheel carrier (and leave the ball joint connected) to remove the strut, since you are going to have to do an alignment anyway due to the lowered springs. #12 bolt is what sets the neg camber for the rear wheels. This #12 bolt needs to be tightened with the wheels on the ground, ramps, or a lift.

#8 Is called rear track arm or trailing arm, you will remove the #10 bolt and slide it up the LCA to free the LCA and allow it to move.

#17 is the toe rod, that eccentric bolt #18 is what controls the toe alignment settings. That bolt gives a very small range of possible adjustment, and when Boxsters are lowered sometimes it doesn't provide enough range to give the desired toe setting, and so the neg camber setting has to be compromised (I'm not sure in which direction, too much or too little, and keep in mind that this neg camber setting also has a limited range as well, maybe .5-.7 degree range of motion) in order to get acceptable toe. If this happens, you need something like this to give you more toe adjustment: http://www.rennline.com/Adjustable-Rear-Toe-Arm/productinfo/S62/ or this more expensive version with bump steer correction: http://www.rennline.com/Rear-Toe-Control-Arm-W_Bump-Steer-Kit/productinfo/S70.10.41/

Edit: there is another less expensive way to get more rear toe adjustments, combine these two parts:
http://www.rennline.com/Inner-Adjustable-Rear-Toe-Arm/productinfo/S64/
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/porsche-steering-tie-rod-end-911-boxster-cayman-43943026381

Note that my terms may not match the "correct" terms but hopefully this diagram helps to clear up what I am saying.

When Pelican says "Chassis mount" when referring to the suspension I believe they mean bolts 12 and 18.

Also let me add a disclaimer - when I did my strut replacement I also did wheel bearings at all 4 corners and so I removed everything from the strut and also completely removed the axles. If I wasn't doing the wheel bearings I "think" I could have gotten away with only disconnecting the axles at the transmission side and removing bolts 10, 12, and 18 in order to drop the hub down. Since I removed the axles completely I didn't have to drop the mid pipes from the exhaust, but I think if the axle was left connected on the hub you would have to drop some of the exhaust. It is a good time to install 2nd cat delete pipes

08-30-2016, 06:44 AM	#11
steved0x Registered User Join Date: Dec 2012 Location: FL Posts: 4,143	#9 is what I am calling LCA (Lower control arm, also called coffin arm). That ball joint can be a b**** to remove. You may be able to only remove the #12 bolt to lower the wheel carrier (and leave the ball joint connected) to remove the strut, since you are going to have to do an alignment anyway due to the lowered springs. #12 bolt is what sets the neg camber for the rear wheels. This #12 bolt needs to be tightened with the wheels on the ground, ramps, or a lift. #8 Is called rear track arm or trailing arm, you will remove the #10 bolt and slide it up the LCA to free the LCA and allow it to move. #17 is the toe rod, that eccentric bolt #18 is what controls the toe alignment settings. That bolt gives a very small range of possible adjustment, and when Boxsters are lowered sometimes it doesn't provide enough range to give the desired toe setting, and so the neg camber setting has to be compromised (I'm not sure in which direction, too much or too little, and keep in mind that this neg camber setting also has a limited range as well, maybe .5-.7 degree range of motion) in order to get acceptable toe. If this happens, you need something like this to give you more toe adjustment: http://www.rennline.com/Adjustable-Rear-Toe-Arm/productinfo/S62/ or this more expensive version with bump steer correction: http://www.rennline.com/Rear-Toe-Control-Arm-W_Bump-Steer-Kit/productinfo/S70.10.41/ Edit: there is another less expensive way to get more rear toe adjustments, combine these two parts: http://www.rennline.com/Inner-Adjustable-Rear-Toe-Arm/productinfo/S64/ https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/porsche-steering-tie-rod-end-911-boxster-cayman-43943026381 Note that my terms may not match the "correct" terms but hopefully this diagram helps to clear up what I am saying. When Pelican says "Chassis mount" when referring to the suspension I believe they mean bolts 12 and 18. Also let me add a disclaimer - when I did my strut replacement I also did wheel bearings at all 4 corners and so I removed everything from the strut and also completely removed the axles. If I wasn't doing the wheel bearings I "think" I could have gotten away with only disconnecting the axles at the transmission side and removing bolts 10, 12, and 18 in order to drop the hub down. Since I removed the axles completely I didn't have to drop the mid pipes from the exhaust, but I think if the axle was left connected on the hub you would have to drop some of the exhaust. It is a good time to install 2nd cat delete pipes Last edited by steved0x; 08-30-2016 at 07:03 AM.