No problem man, that's what this board's all about (and my only short time here).

Now get off your computer, get that broken bolt fixed, and go enjoy the boxster!

That big list still didnt say anything about heat. Generally anytime you mess around with exhaust bolts you need heat. I know you dont want to blow up but just a thought. You will never see an exhaust shop say "Hey bring that car in for 3 days I need to let the bolts soak" Lol

Lol!!!!!!
 

That big list still didnt say anything about heat. Generally anytime you mess around with exhaust bolts you need heat. I know you dont want to blow up but just a thought. You will never see an exhaust shop say "Hey bring that car in for 3 days I need to let the bolts soak" Lol


That's freakin' hilarious...great point!!! LOLOLOL!!!! Let me edit that list. Actually, as I sit and wait for the wrap for the AC line, I am still feeling the guilt of not finishing it myself. :chicken:

But yeah, ...like I said in the lost thread...I was totally inspired by some of the threads, especially your supercharger install! That was very cool!! This is probably meant for another thread,......but that install would be on my "dare to do" list :)

Now get off your computer, get that broken bolt fixed, and go enjoy the boxster!

Yeah, I know.............but I have to wait for the freakin' wrap! I know you will believe me when I say I can't sit still :dance: thinking about it!!!!!!!!I have to be just a LITTLE BIT more patient :(

Dont feel guilty, exhaust work is a pain and the bolts always break.

The AC line was zipped tied to another line of some sort about 5 inches above the header area. This moved it away from the header by about 2 inches, enough to keep it rubbing up against it. Then, some heat-resistant silver tape was added to the line.

I watched the mechanic do this on my car.

I'm sure just heat wrapping the AC line would work, but moving it away from the source of the heat would give you a lot of peace of mind and keep the ambient heat of the AC line down. No sense in making your AC work harder than it should or risking an AC line from deteriorating over time due to the constant heat.

I'd get under it and photograph it for you, but it should be fairly easy to see what it can be tied to to keep it off the header.

As far as general heat from the new headers is concerned, I don't feel they are any hotter than the original headers and the interior of the car (using the right elbow thermostat against the carpet between the seats) does not seem to be any hotter than it was before... possibly a little cooler.

Che's muffler (or most any other smaller, two chamber aftermarket muffler, for that matter) sure is a lot cooler than the factory muffler though... you could bake a pizza in my trunk before and now it's warm, but not hot in there, even after a 4 hour drive in warm South Texas temperatures.

driver's side AC hose waiting for wrap
 

Hey Blinkwatt,
Here's one for you. This is the driver's side AC hose (top left) that's waiting to be wrapped. At least I opened up the garage to let some light in. I was doing some cleaning up so I decided to take this picture.

And btw, in the lower left hand corner of the picture...this is where the single bolt sits for the plastic cover that was hitting my head (re: see #8 on the list of silly things). I didn't put it back on yet. I'll do that after the shop fixes the broken bolts and studs.

Hi Randall,
Thanks for the info. I made the previous post before I had the chance to read your reply. Well, I guess it was meant to be that I take the picture to let others see what we're talking about. Thanks again!

I'm still some ways away from doing the cats and exhaust. But I certainly am looking to do it sometime in the near future. But, when that time comes I'll be sure to look back at all the useful info that you and the other guys were good enough to tell me about. Hopefully, I can make Ohio proud that I was able to proficiently use his torch heating technique on those darn bolts and studs. :)

Pictures from earlier today....
 

Just a few more pictures from today with more lighting. :)

They look nice, so is this at the exhaust shop or did you keep going?

Hey Ohio,
Thanks! No, these pictures were taken in my garage. I took the pictures while lying on my back (ouch!!). I was thinking about it, but I decided to wait for the next install (re: cats and exhaust) to take on your suggestion with the torch technique. Basically, I caved in :chicken: and made an appointment with my Porsche mechanic for tomorrow at 10am EST. When I called him, he told me that he had a 944 turbo just the other day with the same problem. Too bad I didn't know. I would have watched and learned. :(

Just got back from the shop....
 

Well, unfortunately my guy can't take care of it until the 26th! :( So, I will have to be even more patient. It's all good. Some good FYIs came out of it though:

(1) Of course, Ohio was right! Apparently, those studs on the flange are heat-pressed. He's gonna have to take a torch to 'em.
(2) The new bolt that I managed to get back on the passenger's side flange (re: the one where the dremel did it's job) was a bit too long. Because of where it sits, after some time, I could easy end up puncturing the cover right above it.....and imagine oil all over the place...boy, would have been real bad!!!! Good to know!
(3) One of the bolts that I managed to break in the block is too far in, so he will have to drill it out and possibly retap it. And fiinally, the last bolt ( I just added the picture on the first post for this thread) can probably be taken out without having to drill it out.

So, I have learned a lot! :) I will certainly make sure that any future installs will be inspected by him just to make sure I have covered all my bases. 'Til then folks! Have a good holiday and take it easy!! :dance:

Been awhile...
 

Hey Folks,
Sorry, it's been awhile. After all that time, it was ONLY TODAY (re: 5-10 Degrees in New York) that I finally completed the job with my porsche mechanic. The holidays were hectic and I didn't get a chance to finish everything on my last visit with him so the car basically sat this whole time. But, TODAY I FINALLY have my car WITHOUT THE EXHAUST LEAK!! WHEW!!!....and I have to say that it sure sounds and feels great! :dance:

Other NEW issues:
(1) I do have to take care of a CEL :eek: that came on prior to my last visit to him. It was pretty damp and foggy that day. It came on when I went through a puddle of water. Ever since then, it's been on. So, I'll have to take care of that issue before I take my ride out for a REAL TEST DRIVE. Looks like I will be purchasing an OBD II reader as well.

AND

(2) I have some vibration :confused: that I have to take care of. It sounds like it's coming from the ???firewall /heat shields/ baffles??? from on the driver's side. I have yet to search our site for some solutions other than removing them.

Would certainly appreciate any input from you guys! :cheers: (Nevermind, thanks anyway...found all the info from previous posts!)

Update..
 

Well, the CEL issue is fine now. My brother cleared the codes for me and we took it for a test drive the other night. So far so good! Thanks bro! :)

Now for that vibration....after using hose clamps on just about anything that was close to where the vibration was, I did find out where the biggest vibration was coming from. Wouldn't you know it, the passenger side header. :mad: ***So Blink, if you are reading this, I would highly suggest purchasing headers from someone else. At least, a company that provides a warranty of sorts***There are two areas that come very close together. Starting from the 1st pipe closest to the front of the car...so far, I have just finished wrapping a portion of the first pipe and it seems decent enough. (re: I guess this is where my tennis racket wrapping experience came in handy). Now I need to get to the local hardware shop to buy a few more hose clamps (even though I suspect I will need just one more, but just in case).

***On a side note: Just wanted to say thanks to Randall for the post on how to fix the front and rear truck lid. The other day they both stopped working, but THANKS TO THIS FORUM and Randall's post, it's back in working order.**** :dance:

Nope. I don't like the way it looks! Looks pretty ghetto! (re: I hope I don't offend anyone by saying that, but it really does look like crap). I will have to take it down and wrap the entire #1 collecting tube. Sorry, my picture was too blurry, so I'll post it another time. Anyway, it's starting to get too freakin' cold...I was in Home Depot and I forgot to buy a portable heater. :mad:

Huh? Are you sure that was me? I don't remember posting anything about front and rear trunk lids not working :confused:

Hi Randall,

Yup, it was you unless you have a twin! :D

Here you go and I quote, "Also, if the car sits idle for over a week, the key remote is not "seen" by the car and you'd have to put the key in the door, turn on the car, turn it off and then push your rear trunk release button."

This actually works to release the inside latches (on the driver's side) for both the front and rear lids too!

I found this under a thread dated 12-13. :cheers:

Header installation formal write-up
 

Hey Folks,

I had some time today so I did a formal write up for the DIY section. Unfortunately, when I tried to upload the file it was WAY TOO BIG :(

I have also saved it as a webpage, but then again, I wouldn't know how to put it out there in cyberspace. :confused:

For those of you who are interested, at this point, I can probably ONLY email the file to you. So let me know. :)

Thanks in advance. :cheers:

The saga continues....
 

I took my car out today for a sweet long ride...and "by the seat of my pants" indicator, I would have to say "WOW"!!! Very, very, very nice!! I can only imagine what it must feel like with sports cats and a new exhaust!!! :dance:

From what I have read, some have mentioned that there's a price to pay for getting more up top, which is losing some down low. Probably the only way to really find out is to run it on a DYNO....but, just from driving today, I didn't feel too much of a difference down low.

Anyway, as many of you guys might have guessed the CEL light reset did NOT work. :( I figured I would continue posting it in this thread since it appears to be related to the header installation that was done.

Anyway, here are the codes: :ah:
P1124
P0134
P0154
P1115
P1119
P1126

Can I get some help here from some of the more knowledgeable folks out there? After reading all the postings here and on Renntech I am pretty certain that it points to the MAF and O2 sensors?? Is this correct?? Is there anything else from these codes that I should be concerned about?

Thanks in advance!

check engine light codes can be found on this page. Bookmark it!

http://www.iwantaporsche.net/BoxsterCheckEngineLightCodes.htm

When your MAF goes or a O2 sensor goes out, it can throw a bunch of extraneous codes from what my mechanic showed me about my own car. I had one oxygen sensor out and he said the PST tool was showing the MAF not working either. We changed out the O2 sensor and voila! the MAF functioned perfectly and did not need replacement.

How many miles do you have on your boxster?

Hey Randall,

Thanks for the reply. My box just hit 60K. So, I know I have to do the 60K maintainence. Since it's not my daily driver I figure I would just do that in the Spring.

Anyway, what do you think if I just went ahead and ordered the sensors, changed them, and then, reset the CEL. If the lights goes on again, then I might try changing the MAF? Since I don't have an Ohm meter available right now to see if the readings from the sensors are within range, I think I would rather just go ahead and switch them out.

BTW, the MAF is in the compartment behind the seats? Is this correct? Or is it accessible from underneath the car? I have a hardtop on and it's a PITA to remove....that's why I'm asking. I read that to troubleshoot the MAF, I would have to remove it and see if the car runs better. And if it does, then the MAF is the culprit. Did I understand this right?

Ah, 60k... lots of boxster owners start having problems with sensors at this mileage it seems.

If you replace the O2 sensors (all four), it might solve your CE problem. They may not need it yet, but will need it before the car hits 75k miles most probably. This will cost you about $450 and an hour of your time change them out yourself from under the car (I did it and if I can do this, ANYONE can).

When I did mine it was like I got an instant tune up. Purrs like a kitten at idle, gave me better acceleration and fuel economy, and my bald spot disappeared. OOOPS. Went just a little too far there... I'm still balding. :cheers:

The MAF is located just after the air filter, which is located directly above the intake hole on the driver's side of the car in the engine compartment. So yes, the hard top will have to come off, the top raised to the service position, etc.

I would not try to clean the MAF though... some have found temporary success with this, but it is still a gremlin that comes back to haunt them.

www.oxygensensors.com has a good deal on Bosch O2 sensors with the correct square plugs on them, by the way.

Thanks Randall! I went ahead and bought all four including the tools. It cost me $480 and apparently with free shipping :) I'm sure I could have bought the tools in the local shop, but it was quick, it was easy, and they were all on the same website...so, poof! Money gone...hopefully, this takes care of the issue. Will let you know. They should be coming in the next 3-5 days.

BTW, I read about the universals and also asked my mechanic about it awhile back when I was in the shop to get my exhaust leak fixed from my headers. From what he says and from my readings, splicing universal is not a good idea unless one is electrically inclined. I am NOT so good with it and this is one place IMHO that saving a buck will cause more problems than it's worth....boy, am I learning fast!

Addition 3-6-2007 - My post-cat O2 sensor installation instructions for a 1999

http://986forum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=9880

Addition 3-14-07- My pre-cat O2 sensor installation for a 1999
(1) The only additional information for this install is that I purchased a 3/8" drive flex head rachet handle at CarQuest for $10.
(2) Also, I needed to remove the diagonal cross braces and the triangular aluminum pan to get to the pre-cats.
(3) Once those have been removed, I followed the same instructions as per post-cat removal (see above link). Exception: no black rubber hubs. Instead, these were a straightforward removal from a wire harness that was secured via clips. Once installed, just reattach / secure back onto clips.

After each install, reset computer via OBDII reader.

Oh....
 

BTW, about the balding....it's not an issue...that is, unless it started happening after you bought your boxster and began doing mods! Then, I would start to worry...LOL. :D

The balding began when I was in my early 20's and only dreaming about owning a Porsche! Maybe all that concentrated dreaming is what caused it! :confused:

Ahhhhhhaaaa, I see.
 

Well, hair or no hair you're still an alright guy! :cool: I hate to mention this, but....uhm.... just don't do the "comb-over" thing.... :) :cheers:

Don't worry. The wife would kill me before I'd be allowed to walk out of the house with that "mod!" She just takes a #2 guard on the Walmart trimmer we bought years ago and levels it all out on the back porch once a month. No style whatsoever!

That's awesome! LOLLL!!!!! :D

BTW, for the MAF, do you have a quick link for a reasonably priced one just in case I need to order it later on? I would definitely appreciate it. It would save me from having to do another search.

Thanks in advance.

I don't have a good cheap source for a MAF other than my trusty factory source for Pcars, Sunset Porsche in Oregon. Their prices are really quite reasonable compared to your local stealership.

No problem. That's fine. I remember those names from the Renntech forum when I did my search the other night. I forgot to write them down. Thanks! But I sure hope I won't need them! I recall Toolpants and others commenting on how quickly the price shot up from one day to the next! :eek: Pretty amazing!!

Update regarding MAF (3-26-07): just went through some of the paperwork / receipts that the previous owner provided me with.....MAF was already changed! :D


NOTE: SEE UPDATED INFORMATION BELOW ON O2 SENSOR INSTALLS. :cheers:

Hi,

Should have thought of making this DIY a PDF sooner. I had a good number of folks ask me for it so here it is for whomever else is interested.

Hope this helps future installs!

Enjoy!! :cheers: