04-20-2021, 06:17 AM
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#1
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Motorist & Coffee Drinker
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Oklahoma
Posts: 3,935
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Great choice for your situation. The Pelican kit has the same bearing that your car came with originally and comes with an improved center bolt. Take your time and follow the correct procedure and it should be good for another 235k miles.
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I am not an attorney, mechanic, or member of the clergy. Following any advice given in my posts is done at your own peril.
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04-20-2021, 08:06 AM
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#2
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2018
Location: North Cali
Posts: 833
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 78F350
Great choice for your situation. The Pelican kit has the same bearing that your car came with originally and comes with an improved center bolt. Take your time and follow the correct procedure and it should be good for another 235k miles.

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Just a side note, I`m not sure which Pelican kit you mean, but the one I remember is a single row bearing that is good for 40k according to Pelican and it`s nowhere near to the robustness of the original dual row. It`s a usable alternative but won`t last 235k probably. Or have they come up with another one?
EDIT: oh, looks like it`s actually a single row originally. Pretty impressive mileage! Yes, in that case there`s no reason to think why it would not last that long
Last edited by Homeoboxter; 04-20-2021 at 08:11 AM.
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04-20-2021, 08:41 AM
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#3
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Motorist & Coffee Drinker
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Oklahoma
Posts: 3,935
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In reply to Homeoboxter...
Honestly in most cases, I'd opt for an LN dual row or IMS solution. Years ago I put the Pelican Parts bearing in an '01, replacing what had been a good, but grease-less dual row bearing. I still wish I had gone with a better option while I was in there.
In this case, if the single row got it to 235k miles, I doubt that the equivalent replacement will be a problem. At that point, ~$850 just for a bearing wouldn't make sense to me unless it's part of a more extensive rebuild.
__________________
I am not an attorney, mechanic, or member of the clergy. Following any advice given in my posts is done at your own peril.
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04-20-2021, 10:10 AM
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#4
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Orange County, CA
Posts: 1,981
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After locking the cams I would remove the chain tensioners as well to keep the IMS shaft from moving to the side..
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04-20-2021, 10:33 AM
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#5
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2018
Location: North Cali
Posts: 833
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 78F350
In reply to Homeoboxter...
Honestly in most cases, I'd opt for an LN dual row or IMS solution. Years ago I put the Pelican Parts bearing in an '01, replacing what had been a good, but grease-less dual row bearing. I still wish I had gone with a better option while I was in there.
In this case, if the single row got it to 235k miles, I doubt that the equivalent replacement will be a problem. At that point, ~$850 just for a bearing wouldn't make sense to me unless it's part of a more extensive rebuild.
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Yes, I agree. (If that`s indeed the original single-row bearing at 235k that also corroborates the idea that the failures might be due to some sort of misalignment issues of the engine halves or not perfectly lined up bearing bores in the factory which add some minor stress to the bearing eventually leading to premature failure. But I don`t want to hijack the thread and start another IMS debate, hence the paragraph)
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04-21-2021, 06:24 PM
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#6
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: Tucson,az
Posts: 758
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Maybe the RMS leaks and just accumulates around the IMS Bearing cap,.in any event you have gone this far so why not replace it..and 235 K that's Great !!
PS how long did it take to pull the engine ? Thanks Frank
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04-24-2021, 09:05 AM
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#7
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Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2020
Posts: 11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flmont
Maybe the RMS leaks and just accumulates around the IMS Bearing cap,.in any event you have gone this far so why not replace it..and 235 K that's Great !!
PS how long did it take to pull the engine ? Thanks Frank
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Took me about 4 hours to drop the transmission, not including an additional 2 hours to drill out the rusted exhaust flange bolts that connect the headers and the cats.
Really wasn't bad at all. The Burner's Cars youtube videos were a big help, as was the 101 projects book.
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04-27-2021, 02:58 PM
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#8
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: Tucson,az
Posts: 758
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That's Great info..Just 1 more question car lift or jack stands ? Thanks Frank
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