Control Arm Blues

[AUDIOGUY]

Just curious, why did you have to replace them again? Was the car pulling or not able to take an alignment. I was wondering if my ball joints are worn... I feel like my front end has too much play in it. When I hit some bumps here and there, the wheel shudders or the car bump steers. I dont think I have a bad strut, but I havent inspected them. Unfortunately, you cant just replace the ball joint.
Any insight?

[insite]

the ball joint is made of steel and the control arm is made of aluminum. between the two, there is a nylon bushing that prevents squeaking. it wears out and the arm squeaks like crazy.

randall - with regard to race-bread versions, the GT3 control arms are race-specific, but i don't think the ball joints are different (just the mounting point / shimmable length).

[RandallNeighbour]

Audioguy, it's the squeaking. It's horribly loud and really embarassing to boot.

Moreover, if left as it is, it can wear other parts out and cause a dangerous situation while driving, so I gotta get it fixed asap.

[RandallNeighbour]

My replacement control arm is somewhere in the UPS system and I would like someone with some knowledge to tell me if I can do this myself. Looks like three bolts to remove and to replace it.

I have a floor jack, I'll buy the tools if I don't already own them, and I have lots of energy... can I do this or could I cause substantial suspension problems by not being experienced in trying to replace it myself?

My mechanic will want 2 hours labor to do it and I'll gladly pay it, but if it's a no brainer and I should attempt this, someone should let me know one way or another.

[insite]

it's cake, but i HIGHLY reccommend purchasing a ball joint press (NOT a pickle fork). you can find them on ebay for around $25. without it, you run a high risk of tearing the ball joint boot (which may be why yours failed again so quickly).

basically, you undo the upper control arm bolt from the center of the lower control arm. then, loosen the bolt that fastens the lower arm to the suspension cradle. press out the ball joint. remove the lower control arm bolt. reverse to install.

when installing, the ball joint will want to turn in the steering knuckle. you can use a torx to hold it, but this is a pain. since the ball joint pin is tapered, if you tap the ball joint into the steering knuckle with a hammer, it will stop turning so you can tighten it.

also, if you're replacing a rear, mark the location of the eccentric bolt before you loosen the lower control arm, otherwise you'll need to have your camber adjusted by an alignment shop. fronts are easer since the drive shaft's not in the way. you CAN replace the control arm WITHOUT removing the drive shaft.

the fronts take about 30 min. rears, 45min - 1hr.

[RandallNeighbour]

Because of the tools required, I chickened out and took the car to Hans, my trusty mechanic. He swapped out the control arm in 40 minutes for $80. The part was $273.00 with shipping, so I got it fixed for 353.00.

Not cheap but not nearly the $880.00 my dealer quoted me last time it went out... 4 hour book rate @ $100 an hour and $480 for the part! Absurd.

Hans did use a special tool to break the ball joint free of the hub, and when putting it back on, he took a second floor jack and lifted the control arm up and bolted it in. (Insite, it did require him to turn the wheel a little and wrestle it to get it to go into place properly.) You can tell he's done it a hundred times or more.

I noticed this job requires two sets of the same sized wrench... so buying all the wrenches needed to get it done right plus that tool makes it an expensive learning experience.

On the way home, I drove it nice and hard to enjoy my newfound HP and torque and lovely exhaust note, something I have not felt the freedom to do with a worn control arm squeaking as loudly as the radio at times.

Hans says he did not move anything that would require me to get an alignment. Should I do it anyway just to be safe?