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Old 08-01-2006, 07:47 AM   #1
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Check Engine Light - Secondary Air Pump

Hey guys,

Took my Boxster in to get a check engine light diagnosed (I reset it a couple of times but it would usually come back on within 5 minutes of driving it), and they told me it's a secondary air pump problem, printed out the fault sheet - basically had a couple of these sets of errors:

Boxster (986) DME Fault memory
Number of faults: 3
108 Supply voltage
80 Secondary air injection system
Cylinder (1-3)
208 Secondary air injection system
Cylinder (4-6)

They explained it could be the pump, or wiring. The pump is $1501 CDN and they say no returns. So I purchased a used pump for $200, figuring I could always resell it if that doesn't fix it, and am going to book it back in - however, I was just wonder is it something I could tackle myself or is it definately something they should do? He quoted me 1.5 hours to change the pump, so it doesn't seem too overly involved...

I'm also having an issue were every so often it will hesitate and occationally backfire in 1st or 2nd gear. It's almost like the fuel isn't getting through (chugs a bit) and then it all goes through. Never does it in reverse (I can start it up, back it out of the garage onto the road, put it in 1st and it will do it). I have had it when the engine is hot as well, but it's not as common. Unfortunately there are no faults for this, I was hoping maybe just a crappy plug or something but I would think that would register in the fault list.

Any thoughts or suggestions?

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Old 08-10-2006, 04:47 AM   #2
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The secondary air pump is very easy to access on the top side/passenger side. It will take about 10 minutes to change out. It is mounted with 3 10mm nuts.
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Old 08-11-2006, 05:06 PM   #3
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Thanks, I swapped it out, still have the problem.

Check engine light came back on after 70 km's with same error about Secondary Air Pump. Pump runs a lot of the time, sometimes it doesn't. This Porsche shop I took it too thinks it may be a valve? They say the heat from the engine can cause it to screw up. Any idea what valve it would be? Or a p/n or something so I could try and source a used one? They said it would be 4 hours to take off the intake to get to it, plus $400 for the valve, plus the time to put it back together, and no guarantee's that would fix it. So I decided before I drop a grand on it, I'm going to research it a little more and try and do it myself.

Any info/advice would be great!
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Old 08-11-2006, 05:15 PM   #4
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Does the air pump make a whining sound almost like a high pitched vacuum?
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Old 08-11-2006, 05:26 PM   #5
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I have heard that since I owned the car maybe 10 times on random start-ups... Never heard it on the new pump.

Just found this on RennTech.org that may be what I'm looking for:
----
"I had a problem with my secondary injection and it turned out to be the change over valve was not working."

This is by far the most common cause, especially if you can hear the air pump working. The change over valve has a vacuum diaphragm which goes bad. You'll find this valve under the intake manifold on back 1-3. You can test it by applying a vacuum and seeing if it holds. If not, you need a new valve. However, usually the change over valves failure is a symptom and not the real problem. A lot of times what happens is the non return valve (which prevents exhuast from the cylinder head going up stream to the secondary air pump) has failed and the exhuast has burnt up the change over valve. If you see corrosion or scorching on the one end of the change over valve, it would be very wise to replace the non return valve.
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Old 08-11-2006, 05:29 PM   #6
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This would be interesting to find out what it is. My car makes the vacuum sound at start up and turns off as the car reaches the normal operating temperature. Its annoying but I'm the only one that notices. I was told mine could just be a bearing as it turns off after the car reaches normal operating temperature.
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Old 08-11-2006, 05:49 PM   #7
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I'm thinking my problem is one of these 2 valves (air change-over valve or cut-off valve), but I'm not exactly sure:
http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=1132&hl=

Your problem is sounds for sure like the bearing in the pump, the pump's don't look hard to take apart, only 5 or 6 torx holding it together, and 3 #10 bolts and 2 wires plugged into the car. I took it out in about 15 minutes today (as it didn't fix my problem), the shop I had originally taken it to to have it installed charged me for 1.5 hours, so I'm assuming their 4 hours to take the intake off is over rated. I'm also wondering if I'll need new gaskets for the intake if I remove it to change this valve, and what the torque specs are...

My original pump makes that noise occationally, but it is only once a month or so, and it only lasts a minute or so, so I'm not too concerned about it.

My offer still stands for $200 shipped if you can't replace the bearing & you want to buy the other pump off me..

Thanks for the input guys, I really appreciate it!
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Old 08-11-2006, 05:52 PM   #8
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Also, does anyone have the part #'s for the cut-off valve or change-over valve? I have a 97 Boxster...

Any way to narrow it down between the two? Does anyone know if either can be done without removing the intake on the passenger side (1-3)?
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Old 08-11-2006, 06:24 PM   #9
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Anyone have a picture of where the air pump physically is? Does anyone know if I can order the bearing(s) for it seperately?
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Old 08-11-2006, 06:36 PM   #10
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I should have snapped a pic today, but it is literally right on top of the engine, off on the passenger side right behind the intake to cyl 1-3. It literally only takes 15 minutes to take it out even if you have limited technical knowledge. I can take a picture of the spare pump I have out of the car if that would help...
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Old 08-11-2006, 07:11 PM   #11
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For anyone else who is interested or for future reference, I found the part numbers:

996.113.249.01 - cut-off valve
996.605.123.01 - change-over valve
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Old 08-11-2006, 07:23 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flyride
I should have snapped a pic today, but it is literally right on top of the engine, off on the passenger side right behind the intake to cyl 1-3. It literally only takes 15 minutes to take it out even if you have limited technical knowledge. I can take a picture of the spare pump I have out of the car if that would help...
Yes that would be very nice and helpful of you.
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Old 08-18-2006, 12:10 PM   #13
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For future reference for anyone else that encounters similar issues, the change-over valve did fix my problem, and it only cost me $27 from Porsche. They were estimating 8 hours to install it (4 hours to remove intake/injectors to get to it, 3 hours to reinstall, 1 hour to swap valve).

I was able to do it in around an hour by purchasing a set of long needle nose pliers, and squeezing my hands in around the intake. If it wasn't for this one hose that is fairly short I could have done it in about 30 minutes.

Thanks be to the dealer for wanting $1000 for labour.

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