03-17-2017, 12:08 PM
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#1
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Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: New England
Posts: 296
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JFP in PA
Actually, the S cooler fits perfectly, and is one of the best upgrades you can do the money. And oil to water coolers are actually more efficient at heat transfer than oil to air, plus you have no place to put an oil to air cooler. Add a 160F stat with the S cooler and your oil temps will drop 25-30F.
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Awesome! Not sure where I read that the S cooler wouldn't fit, but I probably got it wrong anyway. Thanks JFP, that is certainly a really easy solution. I haven't checked Pelican to see if they have any S coolers available. Can I assume that this component is free from wear issues, in which case I can buy a used part (hello Woody)?
Also, there's this, but not sure if it fits:
Large Oil to Water Heat Exchanger Kit - Parts & Upgrades - Products LN Engineering
Am I on target with my analysis that overheating is the primary issue, or should I still consider a deep sump or accusump?
RK, thanks for the article. That is a very elegant solution.
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03-17-2017, 12:25 PM
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#2
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Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Canada
Posts: 3,150
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Need_for_speed
RK, thanks for the article. That is a very elegant solution.
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actually a very inelegant soln, and supports what jfp said if you read the conclusions at the end of the article where he removes the unit - very little room, air/oil is inefficient, and 986S (996) oem air/water cooler a better soln. also note the opportunity for/consequence of leaks once you start bringing the oil external of the engine.
re oiling, i do not think there is one silver bullet. you could decide that without slicks you won't be generating enough g-force to cause starvation, and pop your engine. or, you could put in a 2 litre x51-baffled sump and an accusump and ... pop your engine.
oil temp is a great place to start. still concerned? then replace the oil pressure switch on your engine with a vdo combo pressure switch/sender unit and rig up an oil pressure gauge. you can track temps to by replacing the rear driver head plug (diagonally opposite the pressure sender) with a temp sender and a temp gauge (get a DIN two 52mm gauge plate and install in place of one of the cubbies in your car). watch your temps to see if you need more cooling, watch your pressure in sweeping, banked turns to see if you need sump baffling, accusump, etc.
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03-17-2017, 04:22 PM
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#3
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Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: New England
Posts: 296
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The Radium King
oil temp is a great place to start. still concerned? then replace the oil pressure switch on your engine with a vdo combo pressure switch/sender unit and rig up an oil pressure gauge. you can track temps to by replacing the rear driver head plug (diagonally opposite the pressure sender) with a temp sender and a temp gauge (get a DIN two 52mm gauge plate and install in place of one of the cubbies in your car). watch your temps to see if you need more cooling, watch your pressure in sweeping, banked turns to see if you need sump baffling, accusump, etc.
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This is an excellent approach and I will definitely look into it -- a proper track car would allow you to monitor both oil pressure and temp.
Also agree with you on bringing the oil outside the engine creating the potential for leaks. That's exactly what concerns me with an Accusump. I follow the racing guys on this forum pretty closely (to me, they're the equivalent of test pilots in my previous life...) and I see them talking about how they still have the same overheating issues with third radiators, Accusump, etc. It seems these engines run damn hot, and they're in a tight, hot little compartment behind you with not a terribly effective way for that heat to be released. In my way of thinking, that passenger side vent should be a hell of a lot larger and incorporate a much larger fan to help pull the heat out of the engine compartment. That said, I also wonder if we couldn't have some sort of modified underbody panel with a more effective air scoop to pull more air into the engine compartment. These cars are pretty sealed up underneath, and the existing scoops in the underbody panel seem anemic. I know clearance issues would be a concern, but I think a better design should be possible. Or, I guess, remove the panel entirely...
Last edited by Need_for_speed; 03-17-2017 at 04:41 PM.
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03-17-2017, 12:33 PM
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#4
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Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: It's a kind of magic.....
Posts: 6,645
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Need_for_speed
Awesome! Not sure where I read that the S cooler wouldn't fit, but I probably got it wrong anyway. Thanks JFP, that is certainly a really easy solution. I haven't checked Pelican to see if they have any S coolers available. Can I assume that this component is free from wear issues, in which case I can buy a used part (hello Woody)?
Also, there's this, but not sure if it fits:
Large Oil to Water Heat Exchanger Kit - Parts & Upgrades - Products LN Engineering
Am I on target with my analysis that overheating is the primary issue, or should I still consider a deep sump or accusump?
RK, thanks for the article. That is a very elegant solution.
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We always use new coolers as you have no idea of the condition of used stuff. And we do not use aftermarket coolers like Pelican sells, we have not had any luck with them.
If you intend to do serious track time, you will need a deeper sump, baffles, an Accusump system, and probably a third radiator as well.
That LN unit is not a factory fit system, it is a remote mount system using water hoses and AN lines for the oil.
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