IMS Fix

[blofish]

Found a IMS kit from European Parts Solutions at 449.00 with oil feed and cylindrical bearings sounds to good to be true. Fairly new on market. I have 2000 boxster S 3.2 with dual row IMS, their info states its bearing replaces both dual and single row bearings. It seem there would have to be spacers or a different end cap for the 2 types of bearings. Have e-mailed the Co. with this question no response yet. Anyone know how this could be true. Thanks:dance:

[Gelbster]

If you had bothered to Search ,you would have found your answers
Does anyone have information on the EPS roller bearing IMS Solution? - Rennlist Discussion Forums
BTW, the RND kit is better .Please SEARCH for details

[78F350]

I don't like to waste money, but critical engine parts that require lots of labor to replace are not where I look to save money. My first IMS replacement was the Pelican Parts kit. I was happy with it, but for the next car I chose the LN bearing for PROVEN reliability and peace of mind. The many discussions on the forum may dissuade you from choosing the type of oil feed used on the EPS and question the long term reliability.
Looking for a cheap replacement that many have been happy with? Get the Pelican Parts IMS Bearing kit.
Want to experiment with your own solution? Get the Pelican Parts kit (for the accessories) and find a bearing that you like better.
Want proven reliability with a guarantee? Get the LN Engineering kit.

Search ----> Read ----> Decide. All of it has been discussed at length.

[kk2002s]

There is SSSoooo much discussion on this subject that it is going to make your head hurt
AND
your probably not going to get much actual direction towards what solution to use.
There are several options and recommendations including - not doing anything.
About the only money saving option that could be thought of for a fix like this is building your own tools. And even that is highly debated.

Good luck and welcome

[Gelbster]

Tool diy? There are some Threads on this.
- Or rent/borrow a pilot bearing puller like Burner did in his inconclusive ,vague video ? After he broke the center bolt.
Really- if a pilot bearing puller worked adequately, why would Jake/LN gone to the trouble of developing a tool kit? And why would so many of us have bought these expensive special tools for a one-time(hopefully !!) job ?

[Smallblock454]

The why?

Well it's a story of fear and making money out of it.

Not saying there are a lot of problems with this engines, but i really wouldn't put 3K in a car worth 9K or maybe 15K just for not have that fear and than have the engine failing by another part.

So, don't buy cheap stuff just because it seems cheap. Buy stuff that works. And if you don't know how things work, go to a professional or go into to topic and learn everything about it.

And please don't use Youtube videos as a proper install guide. In general they lack of different details.

Just my 2 cents
Markus

[PaulE]

Somewhere on this forum is the story of the member who had his IMSB replaced by a Porsche dealer service department and they screwed it up. Luckily for him the dealer made good on it and fixed it properly. My point is if it is beyond your ability and comfort zone just have a professional do it with a good quality bearing like the LN bearing or a good oil fed upgrade like the IMS solution.

[BFeller]

What is this IMS everyone is talking about?


A little early for April Fool's day pranks? And if that upsets you..... The first guy started it with his question.

[Lapister]

Blofish, Check out Burners Cars videos on this subject. Very informative/entertaining, he covers it all on YouTube.

[fanguy]

it's sounds expensive, but installed, lifetime guarantee(yours), and service checks. Downside, ownership is non-transferrable. I know there are grumpy bears in the woods but who cares.

[Qmulus]

I had a feeling that I would regret looking that up... Nice to know the option is out there should the need arise. Or not arise, as the case may be.

[PaulE]

Looks like the AMS 700 is a dual row solution. Too bad I can't unsee that!

[Tweedboru]

Hi, I replaced my IMS bearing as a precaution, it was still in excellent condition after 167,000 KM, both seals were intact and in place, longlife grease long gone having been replaced with plenty of engine oil (splash from crankcase)
The bearing was NSK double row ball race W5204 20x47x23.8 wide, this bearing is very hard to find (Porsche sell it with the shaft, mega bucks ) so I used similar spec NSK Double row ballrace 5204 20x47x20.6 with a 3mm washer spacer, both seals removed.
The tool to remove it is easily made using steel exaust tubing 50mm dia x100 long
split it with trusty angle grinder, open it out a few mm (spread ) to an easy sliding fit through the crankcase hole and internal dia greater than the bearing 47 O/D the rest of the puller is a sleeve joiner ,internal thread to suit bearing bolt, the joiner can be welded to a 12mm or larger threaded draw bolt about 100mm long , a 6mm + thick end plate and 12mm hex nut for the draw bolt, total cost about $10 from hardware store

[Gelbster]

Correct bearing ? even Amazon sell it.
Removing BOTH (??) seals is not recommended.You will fill the IMS tube with oil= bad !
Remove only the outer seal to allow oil into the bearing but not into the tube.This has been discussed many,many times here.
Better to buy a kit because you need the stronger center bolt, new MEC bolts etc.If you source all these items separately it would cost more than a complete kit. Pelican sell the RND kit which is a fair benchmark to compare all others with.

Originally Posted by Tweedboru

Hi, I replaced my IMS bearing as a precaution, it was still in excellent condition after 167,000 KM, both seals were intact and in place, longlife grease long gone having been replaced with plenty of engine oil (splash from crankcase)
The bearing was NSK double row ball race W5204 20x47x23.8 wide, this bearing is very hard to find (Porsche sell it with the shaft, mega bucks ) so I used similar spec NSK Double row ballrace 5204 20x47x20.6 with a 3mm washer spacer, both seals removed.
The tool to remove it is easily made using steel exaust tubing 50mm dia x100 long
split it with trusty angle grinder, open it out a few mm (spread ) to an easy sliding fit through the crankcase hole and internal dia greater than the bearing 47 O/D the rest of the puller is a sleeve joiner ,internal thread to suit bearing bolt, the joiner can be welded to a 12mm or larger threaded draw bolt about 100mm long , a 6mm + thick end plate and 12mm hex nut for the draw bolt, total cost about $10 from hardware store

[mikefocke]

You are thinking of doing something to limit your risk.

Why would you not then go with the most used product, the one with instructions which have been improved multiple times (in contrast to some others where some of us have had to bludgeon the author to correct even the most egregious error), and one with a tool kit that has again been improved given experience and which can be sold after use?

Good luck in your choice.

[Tweedboru]

Thanks for the Amazon source, could not find one at the time.
AS i mentioned the old bearing was in great shape and the shaft had about 1/2 cup of engine oil in it even with both seals in place.The car runs great .
Regarding the tool I thought it may be of interest for those who like to tinker DIY

[particlewave]

Originally Posted by Tweedboru

Hi, I replaced my IMS bearing as a precaution, it was still in excellent condition after 167,000 KM, both seals were intact and in place, longlife grease long gone having been replaced with plenty of engine oil (splash from crankcase)
The bearing was NSK double row ball race W5204 20x47x23.8 wide, this bearing is very hard to find (Porsche sell it with the shaft, mega bucks ) so I used similar spec NSK Double row ballrace 5204 20x47x20.6 with a 3mm washer spacer, both seals removed.
The tool to remove it is easily made using steel exaust tubing 50mm dia x100 long
split it with trusty angle grinder, open it out a few mm (spread ) to an easy sliding fit through the crankcase hole and internal dia greater than the bearing 47 O/D the rest of the puller is a sleeve joiner ,internal thread to suit bearing bolt, the joiner can be welded to a 12mm or larger threaded draw bolt about 100mm long , a 6mm + thick end plate and 12mm hex nut for the draw bolt, total cost about $10 from hardware store

Nice
Some people will act like replacing this tiny bearing is rocket science and that the replacement must cost $1000 or more. Many DIYers have proven that as incorrect, so pay them no mind.

This board is full of those brainwashed by the IMSB-fear-mongerer-for-profit bunch.

[Glasgow 911SC]

Some more opinions from across the pond.

911uk.com - Porsche Forum, Specialist, Insurance, Car For Sale, Finance, Parts & Service : View topic - IMS upgrade

[Gelbster]

Tweedboru;525943]
Thanks for the Amazon source, could not find one at the time.
You are welcome.
" the (IMS)shaft had about 1/2 cup of engine oil in it even with both seals in place."
But that was when you still had a bearing with both seals. Now you have no seals so it will be at least 1/3 full of oil.
"The car runs great ." Glad to read that. But it does not prove that an IMSB with no seals is a good choice. No IMSB deep-groove kits supply bearings with no seals. Most have one seal.
Yours will be an interesting experiment. One difficulty is purging the old oil from the IMS when you drain the engine oil. Park it draining with the front high for a few days?
Hope it works out well for you

[WorkInProgressK]

Fastest way to purge is to run the car on a slight uphill or at the track at a higher RPM. Centrifugal forces would force the oil out faster then letting it sit.

Why not do both .

Tweedboru, I love your solution. I would have kept it sealed with grease. In the end, all of the "lubrification in the bearing" is mostly used as corrosion protection and cooling. Splash will work fine. Bearings deteriorate when they pit so when people stop driving their car.

Maybe Porsche intended people to let their car sit a long time? All their anti-friction bearings are sealed one even those in the gear box where lubrication is plenty.