Clutch adjustment?

[seningen]

Put in a LWFW and an aftermarket clutch in my car.

The clutch pedal has the same travel as before. However beyond a point (1" from the floor?), the clutch no longer engages.

I have good engagement to a point, then if the clutch pedal travels beyond that, the clutch doesn't engage.

Is there an easy adjustment to either adjust the pedal travel, or slave cylinder engagement?

thanks,

Mike

[Bmalin]

Hey everyone. Just bought a 98 Boxter. Love it. The interior needs some work.. Any suggestions where to get new trim around stereo, console etc...? Also looking to add k&N filter for a little more performance at a low cost. Any suggestions here?

Thx!

[seningen]

Originally Posted by Bmalin

Hey everyone. Just bought a 98 Boxter. Love it. The interior needs some work.. Any suggestions where to get new trim around stereo, console etc...? Also looking to add k&N filter for a little more performance at a low cost. Any suggestions here?

Thx!

Don't add a K&N -- the Boxster MAF typically doesn't love it. Your low cost won't stay that way.

I'd argue there are no low cost performance mods..... One that is not too costly is a smaller crank pulley.

Mike

[JFP in PA]

Originally Posted by seningen

Put in a LWFW and an aftermarket clutch in my car.

The clutch pedal has the same travel as before. However beyond a point (1" from the floor?), the clutch no longer engages.

I have good engagement to a point, then if the clutch pedal travels beyond that, the clutch doesn't engage.

Is there an easy adjustment to either adjust the pedal travel, or slave cylinder engagement?

thanks,

Mike

Hi Mike.

There is no real adjustment on these hydraulic systems. Is it possible you either have a problematic slave cylinder, or perhaps the clutch pivot is not properly engaged?

[seningen]

Originally Posted by JFP in PA

Hi Mike.

There is no real adjustment on these hydraulic systems. Is it possible you either have a problematic slave cylinder, or perhaps the clutch pivot is not properly engaged?

I know the slave cylinder is new -- so I suspect that is not the issue.
I didn't do the install on the clutch -- so I can't speak specifically to the clutch pivot.

I had the clutch custom made -- is there anything there that might have made it act similar to the clutch pivot issue.

I really don't want to disassemble everything -- I have too many other more pressing projects to invest that amount of time.

The only reason to not just physically stop the clutch pedal travel is to engage the starter switch. That might be a better short term solution if there isn't an adjustment.

Mike

[Timco]

I don't get it. As you push the clutch in, at about an inch from the floor is where it disengages? Why stop the travel? I have to go back into mine in a few weeks. It's the only real fix.

Any change in clutch thickness or height, or flywheel thickness will directly change the pedal travel or engagement point. For me, I changed the pivot stud to a inch longer one that came with the kit. Wrong move. Now it engages a couple inches from the top with not much travel past engaged. I don't trust its fully engaged even though no slipping.

[thstone]

Mike, to answer the question directly: There isn't any adjustment at all. As Tim explained, the engagement point is a function of the height buildup of the components and the lever arm length. Once it is all assembled, you get what you get, and the only way to change it is to pull it all apart and either find what was wrong or change the components.

My **guess** is that the custom clutch plate might have a slightly different thickness than stock and that is causing the change in engagement point.

[Silver']

When you say 'the clutch no longer engages', do you mean that it starts transmitting torque again?

i.e. Push clutch 3/4 of the way to the floor and you can change gears ok, but push it all the way to the floor and it grinds gears. Is that right?

[seningen]

Originally Posted by Silver'

When you say 'the clutch no longer engages', do you mean that it starts transmitting torque again?

i.e. Push clutch 3/4 of the way to the floor and you can change gears ok, but push it all the way to the floor and it grinds gears. Is that right?

Exactly. Which makes it difficult to start car then engage gear -- or when on track,
when downshifting.

Mike

[Silver']

Cool, got it. I could be wrong, but I think it's conventional to say a clutch is engaged when your foot is off the pedal, and disengaged when you have depressed the clutch pedal.

It's hard to imagine how that's happening unless the pressure plate assembly is incorrect?