New shoes, alignment off

[JayG]

Just had new Hankook V12 Evo2 put on my 04 S all around

They did an alignment check and here are the results

Caster Camber Toe
Left Fr 8.9 -0.1 0.25
Right Fr 8.6 -0.3 0.1
Left Rear -1.6 0.15
Right Rear -1.6 -0.05
Total Toe = 0.35
Thrust angle = -0.1

What should they be.
It is my daily driver and I do some spirited driving.
I plan on a little AX, but mainly want the best setup for DD

Am I ok with the tire shop doing the alignment, or should I seek a shop that specializes in Porsche?

[lkchris]

Unless the alignment was done incorrectly the last time, there's no such thing as an alignment that doesn't require new parts. I'd have a Porsche specialist or someone recommended by Porsche specialist do it.

[JayG]

Originally Posted by lkchris

Unless the alignment was done incorrectly the last time, there's no such thing as an alignment that doesn't require new parts. I'd have a Porsche specialist or someone recommended by Porsche specialist do it.

Sorry, that makes no sense. Unless something is worn out, broken, or bent, parts should not be needed. There are adjustments except for Castor on the stock suspension.

I just want to know what they settings should be by the book and if there are some that would give me better performance than factory settings that I should consider

[san rensho]

The common wisdom for better track handling is to get as much negative camber in the front as possible, as little negative camber in the rear, close to 0 toe in the front and just a smidge of toe in the rear.

get an alignment done no matter what. wrong toe settings will scrub your new tires very quickly.

[JayG]

Originally Posted by san rensho

The common wisdom for better track handling is to get as much negative camber in the front as possible, as little negative camber in the rear, close to 0 toe in the front and just a smidge of toe in the rear.

get an alignment done no matter what. wrong toe settings will scrub your new tires very quickly.

Thanks

What about for "street" driving?

[j.fro]

IMHO, your alignment numbers could be improved:

Left Fr 8.9 -0.1 0.25
Right Fr 8.6 -0.3 0.1

Ideally, you want the left and right numbers to match. These look pretty far apart.
If the left camber is at the negative max, I'd reduce the right to be -0.1 Getting both to -0.3 would be best for handling.
Get the camber set first, then adjust the toe. Zero toe would have both at 0.0, so it looks like you've got a bit of toe in (positive toe) on each side. Toe in is not so good for turn-in response or handling.

Left Rear -1.6 0.15
Right Rear -1.6 -0.05

For the rear, the cambers match, and that's great because rear camber adjustments are more difficult than front.
The toe is a mess, though, as it looks like the left has toe in, while the right has toe out. Your car is trying to pull the back end into the ditch, which may feel like you are being pushed into oncoming traffic. Again, matching is ideal and close to zero is best (street), but for the rear, slight toe in creates stability. Getting both to +0.05 would be good.

Hate to say it, but the factory spec offers a lot of +/- range...your car could be in within "book" spec but not very well aligned.

[JayG]

Originally Posted by j.fro

IMHO, your alignment numbers could be improved:

Left Fr 8.9 -0.1 0.25
Right Fr 8.6 -0.3 0.1

Ideally, you want the left and right numbers to match. These look pretty far apart.
If the left camber is at the negative max, I'd reduce the right to be -0.1 Getting both to -0.3 would be best for handling.
Get the camber set first, then adjust the toe. Zero toe would have both at 0.0, so it looks like you've got a bit of toe in (positive toe) on each side. Toe in is not so good for turn-in response or handling.

Left Rear -1.6 0.15
Right Rear -1.6 -0.05

For the rear, the cambers match, and that's great because rear camber adjustments are more difficult than front.
The toe is a mess, though, as it looks like the left has toe in, while the right has toe out. Your car is trying to pull the back end into the ditch, which may feel like you are being pushed into oncoming traffic. Again, matching is ideal and close to zero is best (street), but for the rear, slight toe in creates stability. Getting both to +0.05 would be good.

Hate to say it, but the factory spec offers a lot of +/- range...your car could be in within "book" spec but not very well aligned.

Thanks

My first read at your respons was "No shyt Sherlock" , I know they are off LOL

I found factory specs and yes, they have a bit of a range. I was hoping to get some good recommendations. Your info is exactly what I was looking for. Thanks again

[j.fro]

Depending on your goal and wallet...
Non-Porsche Alignment shops with the laser machine will just get within the range...
Race shops or Porsche specialists who use Smart Strings or some other string system should be measuring in millimeters and will get the alignment dead-on, but it will take a couple of hours and the cost will be proportionate.

On my autocross car I'm at -3.4 degrees camber at all 4 wheels, 1mm toe out on each front wheel and dead zero in the rear.

[dagdisco03]

I have a question about this. On a stock setup what is being adjusted? I'm thinking only toe in and out on the front wheels are the only point of adjustment? I'm not sure if there is a little play on the strut mounts to pull the camber in or out? I know you can upgrade to adjustable everything but that is not the way they leave the factory.

[JayG]

they were able to adjust everything except caster
yes, camber is limited on the front

ended up having express tire do the alignment and they dialed it in perfectly!
Only cost $60 with a coupon as well

[mikefocke]

My experience, YMMV.

A Porsche guy who does frequent racing setups will know the effect of each end of the factory limits on handling, tire wear, mileage, etc. He can tune the car to be what you want it to be where the tire shop frequently can only get the settings somewhere into the spec range without knowing what effect each setting will have. Not saying it has to be a dealer, my guy was an indie.

I told him I wasn't out to race, I wanted even tire wear. The car had tires that were badly cupped, you could feel the unevenness easily with your hand. After his alignment, I took the new tires off at around 20k with plenty of tread even on the rears and even across the tread face only because they had reached their age limit in my eyes. He had set it up just as I wanted it to be.

[JayG]

well after the alignment
Front

Camber -.2 on both
Toe 0.0 on both

Rear
Camber -1.6 on both
Toe +0.05 on both

Took it out on a twisty road afterwards and it felt great