New shoes, alignment off

[san rensho]

The common wisdom for better track handling is to get as much negative camber in the front as possible, as little negative camber in the rear, close to 0 toe in the front and just a smidge of toe in the rear.

get an alignment done no matter what. wrong toe settings will scrub your new tires very quickly.

[JayG]

Originally Posted by san rensho

The common wisdom for better track handling is to get as much negative camber in the front as possible, as little negative camber in the rear, close to 0 toe in the front and just a smidge of toe in the rear.

get an alignment done no matter what. wrong toe settings will scrub your new tires very quickly.

Thanks

What about for "street" driving?

[j.fro]

IMHO, your alignment numbers could be improved:

Left Fr 8.9 -0.1 0.25
Right Fr 8.6 -0.3 0.1

Ideally, you want the left and right numbers to match. These look pretty far apart.
If the left camber is at the negative max, I'd reduce the right to be -0.1 Getting both to -0.3 would be best for handling.
Get the camber set first, then adjust the toe. Zero toe would have both at 0.0, so it looks like you've got a bit of toe in (positive toe) on each side. Toe in is not so good for turn-in response or handling.

Left Rear -1.6 0.15
Right Rear -1.6 -0.05

For the rear, the cambers match, and that's great because rear camber adjustments are more difficult than front.
The toe is a mess, though, as it looks like the left has toe in, while the right has toe out. Your car is trying to pull the back end into the ditch, which may feel like you are being pushed into oncoming traffic. Again, matching is ideal and close to zero is best (street), but for the rear, slight toe in creates stability. Getting both to +0.05 would be good.

Hate to say it, but the factory spec offers a lot of +/- range...your car could be in within "book" spec but not very well aligned.

[JayG]

Originally Posted by j.fro

IMHO, your alignment numbers could be improved:

Left Fr 8.9 -0.1 0.25
Right Fr 8.6 -0.3 0.1

Ideally, you want the left and right numbers to match. These look pretty far apart.
If the left camber is at the negative max, I'd reduce the right to be -0.1 Getting both to -0.3 would be best for handling.
Get the camber set first, then adjust the toe. Zero toe would have both at 0.0, so it looks like you've got a bit of toe in (positive toe) on each side. Toe in is not so good for turn-in response or handling.

Left Rear -1.6 0.15
Right Rear -1.6 -0.05

For the rear, the cambers match, and that's great because rear camber adjustments are more difficult than front.
The toe is a mess, though, as it looks like the left has toe in, while the right has toe out. Your car is trying to pull the back end into the ditch, which may feel like you are being pushed into oncoming traffic. Again, matching is ideal and close to zero is best (street), but for the rear, slight toe in creates stability. Getting both to +0.05 would be good.

Hate to say it, but the factory spec offers a lot of +/- range...your car could be in within "book" spec but not very well aligned.

Thanks

My first read at your respons was "No shyt Sherlock" , I know they are off LOL

I found factory specs and yes, they have a bit of a range. I was hoping to get some good recommendations. Your info is exactly what I was looking for. Thanks again

[j.fro]

Depending on your goal and wallet...
Non-Porsche Alignment shops with the laser machine will just get within the range...
Race shops or Porsche specialists who use Smart Strings or some other string system should be measuring in millimeters and will get the alignment dead-on, but it will take a couple of hours and the cost will be proportionate.

On my autocross car I'm at -3.4 degrees camber at all 4 wheels, 1mm toe out on each front wheel and dead zero in the rear.