Brake fluid purge?

[JMINMD923]

I am changing brands of race fluid and would like to purge the system of all the old fluid. What is the best method? I have the power bleeder that pushes the fluid out but feel that will still leave a good bit in the system. Any thoughts?

[Eric G]

No, the power bleeder will not leave residual in the system. You fill the power bleeder with fluid and going wheel by wheel, you clear the fluid out till the clear, new fluid appears. Once you have done all four wheels you system is free and clear of all old fluid.

Your statement of "feeling" of leaving a good bit behind indicates you might not fully understand the operation of what is happening. The power bleeder is acting as the new fluid reservoir, as you flush you are pushing all the fluid out of each line separately. There is no mixing between lines. When you are done the system is refreshed with new fluid.

[gavinyuill]

Don't forget to do the clutch cylinder as well.

[Mark_T]

I think you are supposed to bleed the clutch first because it is the higher of the two output lines from the master cylinder. Then start at the brake caliper furthest from the master cylinder and work your way to the closest (LR, RR, LF RF). I bleed the outer nipple first, followed by the inner.

If you use the blue brake fluid you will know when you are done when the new color appears in your drain tube.

This may spark some debate as there are different opinions about the best order of operations, but this is how I do it and it seems to work for me.

[BoxsterSteve]

Originally Posted by Mark_T

I think you are supposed to bleed the clutch first because it is the higher of the two output lines from the master cylinder. Then start at the brake caliper furthest from the master cylinder and work your way to the closest (LR, RR, LF RF). I bleed the outer nipple first, followed by the inner.

If you use the blue brake fluid you will know when you are done when the new color appears in your drain tube.

This may spark some debate as there are different opinions about the best order of operations, but this is how I do it and it seems to work for me.

+1
This method worked well for me too.
Had to bleed the clutch a couple of time because it felt like air got in the first time. Bleeder screw was kind of a PITA to get at, but a stubby wrench did the deed. Used Pedro's DIY.
The brakes were really easy in comparison.
I used Super Blue fluid and my Motive bleeder left no traces of amber fluid in the system at all when I was finished.

[san rensho]

Clutch LAST. Since the opening for the clutch line is above the openings for the brakes, you could lower the fluid level below the clutch as you bleed the brakes, which could introduce air into the clutch system. I guess this only applies if you bleed by using the power bleeder dry, in other words, filling the reservoir as the fluid gets expelled.

[Frodo]

Last I heard, the "Super Blue fluid" is no longer available, due to some silly federal regulation or whatever...

Does anyone know---is that the case? Is it still available from some source or other? I sure did like the ease of going back and forth between the gold and the blue..

[boxster6354]

No longer available on Pelican or any other US site I have seen.

A letter posted on another forum.

[JFP in PA]

Originally Posted by boxster6354

No longer available on Pelican or any other US site I have seen.

A letter posted on another forum.

It was temporarily withdrawn from the market in August, but is now available again from just about everybody including Amazon.com relabeled as "Racing Brake Fluid" or "For Off Road Use", which is how it is labeled in other countries. Long term, Continental may decide to drop it simply because of the extra costs for special restrictive labeling and MSDS, but you can still find it currently.