Quote: "Yes, I followed the EBC instructions to repeat 5 hard stops from 60mph to 20mph and then drove around without using the brakes to let them cool. "
If you use your pads on the street, you need to rebed them before the track. The abrasive properties of the pads erases the transfer layer on the rotor under street use.
To the OP, what tires are you using? This will point to how much pad you can get away with. With R-comps, you can use just about any track pad. With street tires, you need to balance stopping power with tire grip. You don't want to hit ABS every time. Similarly, you don't want to run R-comps with OEM pads - you'll chew the pads away and likely boil your fluid. It's a system, so you need to match components as best you can.
That being said, rotors and fluid are the easy part of the system. Get any high temp fluid [Motul, SRF, etc] and you're good for street and track. Rotors are mostly a non-issue - even if you use OEM. You'll burn through a set of cross-drilled OEM/Zimmerman rotors pretty quick [cracks between holes], but they are cheap. Upgrading to slotted or dimpled will cost you more money, but last longer before they crack out. Once you start tracking more, you probably won't ever wear a set of rotors under the minimum thickness.
PFC and Pagid endurance pads work well for street and track use. If you don't like squealing, just swap to OEM pads after each event. It's quick once you get the hang of it. If you have a backup set of wheels with track tires, this is a really good solution.
If brake cooling becomes an issue (which is unlikely), post another thread, there are a few things you can do.
-td
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