Flashing CEL '98 986

[macyfilms]

I just changed my oil/filter (15w-50 warm SoCal climate) and my spark plugs. The car started up nicely, but after idling for a while, the CEL light came on. This has happened before, so I assumed it was a cold misfire or a loose gas or oil cap. I went for a drive, and noticed less power, less of a smooth sound (engine was not quite warmed up). I drove about 300 yards and the CEL started flashing. PANIC! I parked, scoured service manual, then restarted car. Same events. Solid CEL when parked, flashing at about 30mph. Then the car reached operating temperature and started running smoother and the CEL went solid (not flashing). I'm completely stumped. (though i think my thermostat needs replacing, as it takes 15 mins to warm up).

help? anyone?

[JFP in PA]

With out getting the codes scanned, anything would be purely a guess. A 986 with a flashing CEL means "park it and get it towed to someone that knows what they are doing........." Get it flat bedded to a shop that can scan it...........

[mikefocke]

and don't drive it or run it. The flashing CEL and the solid-on CEL are different and flashing is something SERIOU$.

[macyfilms]

It appears I can't borrow a code reader in California. The stores won't lend them out. I'm thinking of buying one of the Actron scanners for $149. (the 9180) Any opinions on this? My only other option is to tow it to a dealer and you know how they're going to treat me there...

[Steve Tinker]

The Actron (or Durametric) may cost you $150 but its a tool well worth investing in. At least you can get the fault code read and then start to diagnose what the problem is. Could be something simple or something serious.
Right now you are guessing & have 2 options - drive the car with possible engine destruction or take it to the dealers while dropping your pants.....

[Idaho Red Rocket 3]

Sears. $50 and up.

[JFP in PA]

Actron makes good stuff, but I think the 9180 is a discontinued model......

[mikefocke]

for that $150 list money it would be the 9575 . Amazon at ~$115

Good enough at the list $100 price point is the 9550 Amazon ~$67

None of the code readers are as capable as the Durametric (s/w for the Windows Laptop and cable) or the Porsche computers the dealers use (PST2 and PWIS).

Anyone in the area you can borrow from? Fellow Porsche owners? Other car club members?

good luck.

[mcfly777]

Originally Posted by macyfilms

It appears I can't borrow a code reader in California. The stores won't lend them out. I'm thinking of buying one of the Actron scanners for $149. (the 9180) Any opinions on this? My only other option is to tow it to a dealer and you know how they're going to treat me there...

Got the cheapest one at Amazon (US$19). Works fine, delivered next day.

Leo

[macyfilms]

Thanks guys. I borrowed a reader and here is what came up:

P0306 ; P1125 pending; P1123 pending.

I just changed the plugs, so I am guessing i must have screwed up one of the coils (#6 ?). Prior to the plug change, i did not have any codes.

Thoughts on how to proceed?

thx.

[Bladecutter]

Originally Posted by macyfilms

I just changed my oil/filter (15w-50 warm SoCal climate) and my spark plugs.

We can just stop you right there.
No need to go any further at all.

Get back under your car, disconnect all the wires from the coils, remove the coils from the spark plugs, plug the coils back onto the plugs FIRMLY, and then snap the wires back onto the coils FIRMLY.

One or more connection is loose.

In my experience, when a problem comes up so soon after performing work on a car, at least 80% of the time, the problem is related to the work that was done.

BC.

[macyfilms]

Originally Posted by Bladecutter

We can just stop you right there.
No need to go any further at all.

Get back under your car, disconnect all the wires from the coils, remove the coils from the spark plugs, plug the coils back onto the plugs FIRMLY, and then snap the wires back onto the coils FIRMLY.

One or more connection is loose.

In my experience, when a problem comes up so soon after performing work on a car, at least 80% of the time, the problem is related to the work that was done.

BC.

BC, I agree. my greater concern is the 1123/1125 reading. i don't know why that is suddenly coming up. I'll snap the coil connection as you suggested. It's unlikely and oil change would impact anything like that, right?

[extanker]

fix first code first 0306 its a hard code. clear the code and road test and check for codes. the pending maybe history codes

[macyfilms]

Originally Posted by extanker

fix first code first 0306 its a hard code. clear the code and road test and check for codes. the pending maybe history codes

sounds like a plan. I cleared the codes. I'll re-connect the coil and see if i get the 0306 again.

[mikefocke]

picture of cyl layout

[macyfilms]

Originally Posted by extanker

fix first code first 0306 its a hard code. clear the code and road test and check for codes. the pending maybe history codes

i cleared the codes and let the car warm up before driving. After a 20 minute/ 22 mile drive, the 0306 code did not reappear, so I am assuming this was an isolated incident and was the cause of the flashing CEL.

but i did get PENDING codes 1123 1125 1128 1130. no CEL, but four codes showing both rich & lean issues. i'm stumped (as usual). Is it a risk to drive with these codes ? Or was it just the 0306 that was risky?

Also, I'm wondering if the cause might be A) 87 octane gas ? B) the car takes forever to warm up because of bad thermostat?

sg

[extanker]

a pro repair maual and a good scan tool are needed so you can follow the diagnostic repair tree. a code reader is sometimes a teaser. a no cel means you can drive it but it seems you have other issues....gas,stat,soft codes and other surprises