Which O2 sensor to buy??

[mptoledo]

I purchased an obd2 reader today and only read two codes.
1.)p1133= oxygen sensor, adaptation, lower load bank two above limit.
2.)p1126=o2 sensng range 1 cyl 4-6

I have read on hear that the o2 sensors should be replaced around this mileage. I would love to save $500ish if I don't have to spend it. I know nothing about 02 sensors, but was wondering if it is possible to clean them?

I just did a transmission fluid and filter swap. I was hoping it would take care of the churning noise/feeling I get when I start the car up and put it in drive/reverse. I noticed that probelm driving home from a 90 mile trip a week ago. It would shift up and down fine, both auto and tip. It was only when I stopped at a light it would make a chruning noise. That part is worrying me enough to not drive it, until I figure out what the heck is going on. As stated previously, everything else is fine.

Any Ideas on the tranny?

[Topless]

Good! Now we are getting somewhere.

Your codes indicate your car is running lean. Most likely a bad MAF or intake vacuum leak. Fresh O2 sensors will not fix this. Have you done any recent work on the car that might have disturbed the intake system or bumped a vacuum line loose? Is your MAF original? You can unplug the MAF, clear the codes and drive the car for a while. If it runs ok and the codes do not return you have a bad MAF.

[mptoledo]

Originally Posted by Topless

Good! Now we are getting somewhere.

Your codes indicate your car is running lean. Most likely a bad MAF or intake vacuum leak. Fresh O2 sensors will not fix this. Have you done any recent work on the car that might have disturbed the intake system or bumped a vacuum line loose? Is your MAF original? You can unplug the MAF, clear the codes and drive the car for a while. If it runs ok and the codes do not return you have a bad MAF.

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Thanks for the help>
This year, I changed my alternator, batter, oil, and fuel filter. I did have an electrical surge that blew a fuse . My oil sensor thing on the dash just blinks and then goes off. Any links on how to unplug the maf? I did all the other work myself so this shouldn't be too bad. Only after I had just disconected the battery for an hour, the car started running real ruff right after I start it. It bogs down when I press the gas after starting it.

My main concern right now is the churning sound when I put the car in drive/reverse. I changed the atf and filter and its still there.

[Topless]

Here you go... more than you ever wanted to know about the MAF on these cars:
http://sites.google.com/site/mikefocke2/checkenginelightcausedbymassairflowsensor

Included are instructions for cleaning or replacing it. I tried the cleaning but it was a temporary fix. Replacing the MAF solved all hesitation issues with my car. To test it just unplug the MAF and drive the car. If it runs better, replace with the proper part# for your model and year.

Also review the work areas around your alternator and fuel pump. It is possible that something got knocked loose or was left undone causing a vacuum leak. These cars run best with no intake vacuum leaks.

[mptoledo]

Thanks for the info topless. I will be doing the clean thisweekend for sure. I will post back here and let you know the results. I might owe ya a huge frickin beer

[mptoledo]

I did the Maf clean and it was a simple fix for the rough engine start. I drove it about 10 miles today, but still had the churning noise when stopped and the car in gear. I haven't had a chance to drive it the 45 to 60 miles it takes for the engine light/cel to turn on. I didn't notice any oil or gunk in the maf when I took it out. I did stick my finger in where the maf sits and scraped the walls. My finger didn't pick up anything but a little carbon(not much).

Again Thanks for the maf fix, but my main concern is the churning/ spinning noise. It shifted flawlessly again today. Nothing seemed out of the norm except the noise/feeling.