Which O2 sensor to buy??
 

Hey all, Its time to turn the codes off on my 67k mile, 2001 Boxster s tip for good. Which O2 sensors do I need. I figure I might as well change all 4 and get it over with.

Pelican parts prices seem frickin high. I found another site that had more options and a lot cheaper prices. If you know of another place, please chime in :cheers:

http://www.racepages.com/products/index.php?N=4294963364&Ntk=Main&Ntx=mode+matchallp artial&Nty=1&Ntt=boxster+oxygen+sensor&D=boxster+o xygen+sensor&Dx=mode+matchallpartial&Npp=10&Ns=pri ce2%7C0

http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/shopcart/986M/POR_986M_EXHpip_pg1.htm#item0

I didn't want to screw around trying to save a few bucks making generic/universal sensors work, so I got 3 (1 had already been replaced) from these guys:

http://www.maxspeed-motorsports.com/15182.html

At the time they had just about the best price I could find for sensors with OEM type connectors, $99 each front or rear. I've got ~6k on them so far and no problems.

thanks for the reply :cool:

Did you install them yourself? If so, how easy?

I will have to do some more research before I pull the trigger. I am in the process of do a ATF change as soon as my filter and gasket come in tomorrow. Hopefully it will take care of my new noise problem. :(

Wayne at Pelican says Bosch is OEM supplier & the way to go for replacement. Seems like they last longer & give better signal. Check Pelican DIY for more info.

I went with the Bosch units I found on Amazon. The price was reasonable and I also factored in Amazon's return policy and felt like I would be getting the real deal on Amazon vs. Bosch units on EBay.

I also have a 2001 and found it very very easy to replace with the exception of the rear post cat on the passanger side. It took a bit of effort in that the cable and plug are in a tight spot. Definatelly get a set of open end box wrenches for the job...It's all you will need.

Thanks for the responses. I do appreciate them.
I want to fix my tranny noise first, but sensors are second on my list of things to do this month.

Do you guys think that will improve my MPG? I get around 23hwy, but used to get 28ish. I already did the fuel and air filter, bi yearly oil changes and new tires.

I recommend investing in an oxygen sensor wrench in order to avoid the possibility of an open end slipping off, resulting in a smashed finger or worse. I used it with a long handle ratchet with a head that could be vertically angled. Being able to use a cheater bar for added torque was a big help. A couple of mine were really tough to remove.

All major auto parts stores stock O2 sensor wrenches for $10-$15, but I picked one up on fleabay, $9.95 delivered. Very well worth it IMO.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Performance-Tool-W84008-Oxygen-Sensor-Wrench-Offset-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem5ad9e70d7bQQitemZ39020 2854779QQptZMotorsQ5fAutomotiveQ5fTools

With the right tools and sensors with OEM plugs this is a very easy job.

BTW, ********************************AZ's got Bosch with the plug for $121 each. The ones I got from MaxSpeed were Walker (I believe), another big name in O2 sensors.

I've put about 300 miles on my 99 since I put in precat O2 sensors and a new MAF; i'm getting nearly 30 mpg up from about 20 last month. And the car's driving like brand new.

Amazing, and the O2's only took about 15 minutes after letting penetrating oil set in.

Question... Are you sure your O2 sensors are bad or are they simply reporting a problem upstream? Bad MAF, Failed AOS, Intake vacuum leak, Bad gas cap, etc. Always annoying when you change parts and it doesn't fix the problem. What are your codes?

I purchased an obd2 reader today and only read two codes.
1.)p1133= oxygen sensor, adaptation, lower load bank two above limit.
2.)p1126=o2 sensng range 1 cyl 4-6

I have read on hear that the o2 sensors should be replaced around this mileage. I would love to save $500ish if I don't have to spend it. I know nothing about 02 sensors, but was wondering if it is possible to clean them?

I just did a transmission fluid and filter swap. I was hoping it would take care of the churning noise/feeling I get when I start the car up and put it in drive/reverse. I noticed that probelm driving home from a 90 mile trip a week ago. It would shift up and down fine, both auto and tip. It was only when I stopped at a light it would make a chruning noise. That part is worrying me enough to not drive it, until I figure out what the heck is going on. As stated previously, everything else is fine.

Any Ideas on the tranny?

Good! Now we are getting somewhere.

Your codes indicate your car is running lean. Most likely a bad MAF or intake vacuum leak. Fresh O2 sensors will not fix this. Have you done any recent work on the car that might have disturbed the intake system or bumped a vacuum line loose? Is your MAF original? You can unplug the MAF, clear the codes and drive the car for a while. If it runs ok and the codes do not return you have a bad MAF.

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Thanks for the help>
This year, I changed my alternator, batter, oil, and fuel filter. I did have an electrical surge that blew a fuse . My oil sensor thing on the dash just blinks and then goes off. Any links on how to unplug the maf? I did all the other work myself so this shouldn't be too bad. Only after I had just disconected the battery for an hour, the car started running real ruff right after I start it. It bogs down when I press the gas after starting it.

My main concern right now is the churning sound when I put the car in drive/reverse. I changed the atf and filter and its still there.

Here you go... more than you ever wanted to know about the MAF on these cars:
http://sites.google.com/site/mikefocke2/checkenginelightcausedbymassairflowsensor

Included are instructions for cleaning or replacing it. I tried the cleaning but it was a temporary fix. Replacing the MAF solved all hesitation issues with my car. To test it just unplug the MAF and drive the car. If it runs better, replace with the proper part# for your model and year.

Also review the work areas around your alternator and fuel pump. It is possible that something got knocked loose or was left undone causing a vacuum leak. These cars run best with no intake vacuum leaks.

Thanks for the info topless. I will be doing the clean thisweekend for sure. I will post back here and let you know the results. I might owe ya a huge frickin beer :cheers:

I did the Maf clean and it was a simple fix for the rough engine start. I drove it about 10 miles today, but still had the churning noise when stopped and the car in gear. I haven't had a chance to drive it the 45 to 60 miles it takes for the engine light/cel to turn on. I didn't notice any oil or gunk in the maf when I took it out. I did stick my finger in where the maf sits and scraped the walls. My finger didn't pick up anything but a little carbon(not much).

Again Thanks for the maf fix, but my main concern is the churning/ spinning noise. It shifted flawlessly again today. Nothing seemed out of the norm except the noise/feeling.