Check Engine Light

[guenzak]

I have a 98 Boxter that just recently turned 71K miles. I have had it for about 4 months and it has run great. Today when I started it the check engine light came on. It still appears to be running fine. Unfortunatly my Boxster did not have an owners manual when I bought it. Can anyone tell me what the check engine light means on a '98? Not sure what I should do.

Thanks

[jwocky]

It can mean a whole slew of things. If it's blinking, definitely do not drive the car anymore (as this is an indication of something majorly wrong). If you know anyone with an OBD-II reader they can pull the fault code for you and then you can just ask around here or search around for Porsche OBD fault codes to see exactly what the problem is. Or, I've heard that places like Jiffy Lube or Autozone will read the fault code for you. Either way, the manual won't tell you what's wrong because the CEL can be lit for tons of reasons. Good luck!

- Jason

[Brucelee]

The readers at the Jiffy Lube will likely be useless. I would get to the dealer or Porsche mechanic who has the real deal. No good driving this puppy with the light on, not worth the risk.

Nothing in the owners manual will help you here.

Sorry but that is the skinny!

[sandwave]

Worth checking - it can come on just because the gas filler cap is not tight. Also, I had new cap fitted to my 97 Boxster as a factory recall. You may want to check with the dealer.

Dominic

[donv]

Don't forget to check the oil filler cap too. I couldn't believe how much impact leaving it open had on the idle on my car - it sounded horrible! I wouldn't be surprized if it could impact the CEL.

[RandallNeighbour]

mine just came on too, but I think it has something to do with the fact that all four oxygen sensors were pulled from the exhuast system to get the transmission replaced. One may have gotten oil from the mechanic's fingers on it and is not working right.

A quick plugging up to a PST2 tool he'll borrow from the dealership where he works will tell us where the problem lies. Good rule of thumb is to make sure all caps are tight (fuel, oil, radiator) and stop driving the car if it blinks on and off... that's serious.

[ronkain]

I have a 1997 986, have alot of stored codes, car seems to have a very slight misfire, dont notice any drivabilty difference, smooth and normal power.
60k service was done at 59k, car now has 63k on it.
this car has the original Air Mass sensor 996 606 123 00
does not have the updated oil seperator

no vacuum leaks - smoke tested = OK
gas cap not loose
oil cap not loose
plugs look great

here are all my codes.
#27 O2 sensing range 1 cyl 1-3
#35 " " " 1 Cyl 4-6
#34 " " " 2 cyl 4-6
# 26 " " " 2 cyl 1-3
#21 " sensor aging before cat. cyl 4-6
#62 misfire emission related
#55 misfire cyl 6
#53 misfire cyl 4
#54 misfire cyl 5
#75 misfire damagine to cat
#68 misfire cyl 6 damaging to cat
#66 misfire cyl 4 damaging to cat
#67 misfire cyl 5 damaging to cat
#18 O2 sensor before cat cyl 4-6
any thoughts on this one will be appreciated!!

Thanks, Ron

[Pablito]

I've had similar codes on mine too...However "Runt" is already in the 97,000 miles. I've recently replaced all six coil packs and spark plugs as well as all four Oxy Sensors.....due to the fact the car was misfiring badly and those codes were the readout. I've also replaced the Idle control valve and gas filter, and I'm yet to replace the other valve (right next to it) that controls the gas flow (my car occasionally shuts-off on idle)...once I replaced the above parts the CEL turned off for a while and then turned back on several days later when the car was stationary (idle). I'm blaming it on the gas regulator valve that I haven't replaced...any thoughts?

[RandallNeighbour]

Pablito:

It sounds like you're on the right track, but frankly, you'll never know until you get a reading from a PST2 tool at a dealership. This is the only way to insure you are replacing the right things at the right time.

For example:
I thought my MAF was going out, but I found that the MAF was acting whacky because one of my O2 sensors was working intermittently. When my mechanic swapped it for an older, functioning one he had lying around his garage, the car idled very well and the readings for the MAF taken from the PST2 tool showed it was in good shape.

Here's my thoughts on CE lights on our cars in summary:
1. If the CE comes on and stays on, check for stupid things like caps being loose or missing.
2. If nothing stupid is found, it may well be a sensor ... all four O2 sensors should be replaced at the same time. Popping in a single new sensor with three old ones will yeild more error codes. A MAF is actually the one expensive sensor that you can replace yourself in a half hour, but insure it's not acting up like mine was due to a bad O2 sensor.
3. CE lights can also come on for a variety of other reasons, so get it on a PST2 tool at a dealership to discover the issue.
4. When your CE light blinks, you're in deep doo doo. Turn off engine immediately and get ready to spend enough money to require a comma in the amount.

[Pablito]

Thanks for the feedback....In fact it was connected to a PST2 tool however it was before I replaced the parts and everything pointed to the O2 sensors and the dying coil packs....I need to plug it again now to see what's the outcome, Hey at least It's good to know I'm on the right path...

By the way do the catalyics need changing? I've gotten mixed feedback, the most convincing one was that as long the car had good exhaust flow to keep the factory ones due to their sturdy construction, they may not be the sportiest around but they are durable, what's our take on it?.....Thanks a mill