KSport Coilovers: All About 'Em - 986 Forum - The Community for Porsche Boxster & Cayman Owners

j.fro · 01-03-2014, 08:52 AM

I did have to get adjustable rear toe control arms. The front worked out fine. I'm about 1.5" lower than stock, riding on 275 35 18 rear and 245 35 18 front NT01 tires. The car was aligned using Smart Strings with zero toe up front and maybe 1 mm total toe in the rear. Have a look at my solution for front adjustability...

I should probably be concerned with how OK I am with using a die grinder on my car, but I'm not.

Bigsmoothlee · 01-03-2014, 09:40 AM

Hahaha, you're nuts!

I did the same thing on a friends VW MKV GTI, it looks like the only way to adjust camber.

Jamesp · 01-03-2014, 01:32 PM

I should probably be concerned with how OK I am with using a die grinder on my car, but I'm not.

[/QUOTE]

+1!

insite · 01-06-2014, 11:39 AM

how do i upload a PDF? i only see gif/jpg option. i will repost the files if someone can tell me how. i think we had a mod do it before?

AlanS · 11-19-2014, 10:58 AM

My two cents...
KSport shocks are NOT worth the time or money. I got 8 months on them before one of them crapped out. Strictly road driving, too! What's more, after having them installed, the car never felt predictable or comfortable. Way too much rebound. My mechanic was not impressed either; "Something not right with those" was his description.

Eight months on the car, and I came out to a puddle of fluid and a blown shock. No hard driving, honestly! The overnight temperatures were around 10 degrees, so my guess is there things were never designed for cold temperatures. Very poor design, very poor engineering - whatever, I am not a fan.

Called the company I bought them from, and they were happy to get that shock replaced. (Also said these shocks should last 3 to 4 years... Shouldn't a shock last longer then that?) To their merit, sounds like KSport would warranty them for 1 year. But would you go to the expense to install along with the downtime to remove, ship back and forth, and reinstall? And then expect the same to happen to another one... Not me. Take my loss, and going with PSS10, or something like that.

Spend a little extra, get something with real quality.

Topless · 11-20-2014, 06:32 AM

FWIW, So far I have been pretty underwhelmed by k-sport equipped Boxsters on the race track. Maybe it was just their setup or alignment settings but they just never felt solid and planted like the M030 and PSS9 cars. One of the reasons owners choose K-sport is low cost so maybe they are reluctant to spend another $600 getting them really set-up and dialed in, corner balanced and aligned. If you are going to use them, I suggest working with an experienced shop to make sure you get the most out of them.

seningen · 01-06-2014, 12:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by j.fro

I did have to get adjustable rear toe control arms. The front worked out fine. I'm about 1.5" lower than stock, riding on 275 35 18 rear and 245 35 18 front NT01 tires. The car was aligned using Smart Strings with zero toe up front and maybe 1 mm total toe in the rear. Have a look at my solution for front adjustability...

I should probably be concerned with how OK I am with using a die grinder on my car, but I'm not.

Any cost in rigidity here?

just picked up an S for my drive to the track car.

Looking for economical improvements without getting too radical.

thx,

Mike

LowFlyR · 01-09-2014, 08:03 AM

Greetings everybody who knows me. I've been back in Finland since fall 09 and got a update on this posting. No Porsche nowadays, but I'm working on it

Take care buddies!

from somebody who looks for a new used 986S

j.fro · 01-09-2014, 02:53 PM

Tower integrity did not change from the cuts. The KSport hat is a pretty thick piece of aluminum, and all of the stress is distributed away from the cuts.

rionhosaki · 02-03-2014, 04:21 PM

I contacted K-sport and they refused to give me a 5.3 spring.

"Regarding spring rates, they advised that a 5.3kg up front isn't doable as they don't offer any springs in this design with that rate. "

"They did mention that is only a very small difference from the 6kg that the kit comes with. Regarding the rear, they said they could do the 7.5kg rather than the 8.7 if you'd like. They did warn that the warranty on the struts portion of the coilovers would be voided due to this. They advised that they spring rates offered on this kit were chosen for a specific reason and that by going softer on the spring rate, you do risk possibly damaging the struts that are included. If you'd like to proceed, it is an extra $12 per corner to change to a different spring rate. "

Should I go with 6kg front and 7.5kg rear? and void the warranty or go with the 8.7 rear?

i don't want the ride so rough that my teeth gets rattled out or destroy my wheels.

Jamesp · 02-03-2014, 05:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by j.fro

Tower integrity did not change from the cuts. The KSport hat is a pretty thick piece of aluminum, and all of the stress is distributed away from the cuts.

I'm not so sure. Round holes are much more structually efficient than square due to stress concentrations at the corners of square holes, not to mention the corresponding reduction in material. Bolt holes should have a minimum of 1.5 times bolt diameter to edge distance for similar reasons. Don't get me wrong, I'm all for owner inspired redesign, I've drilled holes in my intermediate shaft, but the modification should take into account engineering principles. So +1 on stepping out and making the mod. Just the same, the big square hole with the limited bolt hole to edge dimension is outside my comfort zone. I do give seningen props for making the mod. I hope it works well.

Bigsmoothlee · 03-24-2014, 09:01 AM

Question, I just got a set of Ksports from Ebay.

I dont plan to lower my car much, maybe 0.5". Can I max out the camber in the rear without needing adjustable toe control arms?

j.fro · 03-24-2014, 02:09 PM

I had to go with adjustable toe arms, but I also went 1.5" or so lower.

seningen · 03-24-2014, 05:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jamesp

I'm not so sure. Round holes are much more structually efficient than square due to stress concentrations at the corners of square holes, not to mention the corresponding reduction in material. Bolt holes should have a minimum of 1.5 times bolt diameter to edge distance for similar reasons. Don't get me wrong, I'm all for owner inspired redesign, I've drilled holes in my intermediate shaft, but the modification should take into account engineering principles. So +1 on stepping out and making the mod. Just the same, the big square hole with the limited bolt hole to edge dimension is outside my comfort zone. I do give seningen props for making the mod. I hope it works well.

No props to me - I grabbed the photo from the forums.
A set of camber plates "fell into my lap" -- so that is the route I will be going :-)

Good comments on the square vs round too.

Mike

j.fro · 03-25-2014, 02:19 AM

All I can offer is my experience. I cut those squares about three years ago. Our AX lot is far from smooth... On Saturday we had to alter the course because a pothole opened up. All that debris on top of the strut came from that event. Nevertheless, after all of the abuse, no cracks. Like I said before, though, I should probably be concerned with how OK I am with using a die grinder on my car, but I'm not. Roll on, little race car!