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Old 03-25-2007, 06:39 AM   #1
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Spark Plug and Oil? Confused?

Since I'm a rep from Amsoil and I could get the oil fairly cheap compared to Mobil or the stealership prices, I decided to change my own oil. I called the dealership and they stated that my 2001 Porsche Boxster S requires 0W40 oil well Amsoil does not carry 0W40 oil and I asked the "Stealership" if going with 5W40 or 15W50 would be good enough, he refrained me from going any higher than what he quoted me. I live in Chicago, Illinois and honestly I dont drive my Porsche during the winter since I keep her in storage nice and covered to. Looking at the service manual they used 15W50 on the car but the car came from Florida (one owner) with very little miles

I called Amsoil directly and spoke to a tech he stated that I should be fine with high performance 10W40 or 5W30 or 5W40 european formula however the european standard did not offer high performance standards. Since I drive a Porsche and a BMW540 I wanted to buy a few cases of oil for my personal stock to use on both cars, now my 540 takes (regular oil) 15W40 but if I decide to go synthetic the service guy informed me to go with 5W30 so can I just use 5W30 on both cars and be happy or should I use something else that will fit my needs.

My Porsche is not stock, new performance exhaust, intake, headers and software upgrades, oh and nice 19 inch wheels!

Lastly, I want to change the stock plugs to Denso Iridiums. Any thoughts on this or has anyone used the plugs on their modified S???

Sorry for the long thread just wanted to explain my little issue. Thanks to all in advance!

Robert

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Old 03-25-2007, 06:52 AM   #2
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0W-40 allows oil to flow quicker thus reducing wear at the time of start up. It's been said that 90% of wear occurs at start up, so 0W-40 is the best oil anywhere in the world.
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Old 03-25-2007, 07:00 AM   #3
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The 5W-40 is fine for both cars.

Use that!

Yes, irridium plugs are the bomb!

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Old 03-25-2007, 07:01 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Paul
0W-40 allows oil to flow quicker thus reducing wear at the time of start up. It's been said that 90% of wear occurs at start up, so 0W-40 is the best oil anywhere in the world.
Really, now do you figure?
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Old 03-25-2007, 08:08 AM   #5
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Hi,

The Ignition System was designed to work at it's best with the Plugs the manufacturer calls for - Bosch FGR 7KQC or BERU 14 FGR 7KQC. This is because the Head was specifically tapped to properly index these Plugs, meaning that they seat to the proper depth in the Combustion Chamber, have the proper Temperature Range, and are aligned properly in terms of Flamefront propogation.

The specific functions of any Spark Plug are:
  • To Ignite the Air/Fuel mixture
    To EXTRACT the heat out of the combustion chamber - it is a Heat Exchanger

The temperature of the spark plug's firing end must be kept low enough to prevent Pre-Ignition or Detonation, but high enough to prevent fouling and lies between 450°-850° C.

The Heat Range is a measure of the Spark Plug's ability to remove heat from the Combustion Chamber. The Spark Plug removes about 22% (or more than 1/5th) of all the Heat from the Cylinder - 20% through the Porcelain Insulator and 2% through the Spark Plug Wire from the Connector at one end to the Electrode Tip at the other. This Thermal Performance is determined by the Heat Range of the Spark Plug. A Spark Plug's Heat Range has no relationship whatever to the actual voltage transferred through the Spark Plug.

Using Aftermarket Plugs does not guarantee that any of these things will be achieved. This is because there is no Industry Standard on Temperature Range - while the difference between between successive Heat Range numbers by the same Plug from the same Manufacturer is about 70°-100° C (in terms of operating Heat, this is the equivalent of advancing the timing 10°), this in no way assures that the same Heat Range Number of a different Plug from another Manufacturer will operate in the same range.

In fact, some Manufacturer's Heat Range increases as the numbers ascend, while for other Manufacturers the Heat Range increases as the numbers descend.

Thermal Performance is the single most important factor of a Spark Plug.

So far as igniting the A/F mixture, there is no such thing as a better Spark or a greater Spark, there's just the Spark. The AF Mixture doesn't ignite any better with a Spark temperature of 80,000° K than it does at 60,000° K (59726.85°C). Nor does it combust the mix more completely, or quickly, that is determined by the Fuel Quality and Octane Rating, Compression Ratio, Combustion Chamber, and Piston Dome design, and Flamefront propogation.

Precious Metal Spark Plugs are mainly a gimmick to increase Market Share in a very competitive Market. There are no Performance advantages to be had from them at all. One supposed advantage is that the Precious Metals slow down the rate of degradation of the Tip, allowing the Spark Plugs to remain in service longer. Another advantage is that the plug's Center Wire can be made more thin - an advantage for the Manufacturer, not you.

There's a False advantage in making the Plugs last longer. While the Tip may not degrade as quickly, the Ceramic Insulator does not possess a corresponding longer life and can crack just as quickly as a non-Precious Metal Plug requiring it to be changed. And, Carbon Buildup around the Metal Case will impede Heat Transfer from the Combustion Chamber, again, reducing Engine Perfomance and Longevity.

Spark Plugs are Cheap and easy to change and there is simply no advantage to increasing their Service Interval (especially on a Sports Car). These parts perform literally 400-500 Million cycles (or individual firings) during a 2yr./30k mi. Service Interval. It's simply prudent to inspect any piece of Machinery after this many Cycles, especially the one which makes the whole IC process possible.

And, since inspecting them (especially in the Boxster) equates in function to changing them, considering the minimal cost involved, it's advantageous to simply replace them at that time.

In order to increase Market Share, these Precious Metal Plugs are often marketed with much Fanfare and unsupported claims to lure you into buying them.

At one point, Firestone (a Tire Manufacturer) tried to enter this fierce market by offering a Spark Plug which had a Polonium tip. Supposedly, this radioactive metal would ionize the air in the gap, easing Spark formation. But, the high cost of these plugs - $25@ (in 1970's $), a questionable theory at best, the AEC's concern that radioactivity may be released into the environment, and people's aversion to using anything radioactive, resulted in so little demand for this product that it was quickly pulled from the Market and Firestone withdrew from the field.

So, don't be drawn in by all the Hype - stick with the OEM Spark Plug. You really cannot do any better...

Happy Motoring!... Jim'99

Last edited by MNBoxster; 03-25-2007 at 09:48 AM.
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Old 03-25-2007, 08:11 AM   #6
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The lower the bottom number (0W, 5W) the better the oil flows at start up.

I believe this is the latest TSB from Porsche:

http://www.wrightune.co.uk/downloads/approved_oils.pdf
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Old 03-25-2007, 09:09 AM   #7
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Ahhh Jim,

Always look forward to your wealth of information!

Will be doing my plugs sometime this Spring and was also thinking about purchasing some Iridium ones on Ebay. But now I feel more at ease in knowing that the differences are not as significant as many of us have been led to believe. Thanks Jim, will definitely stick with the usual---at least in this case.

Hey Paul,
Thanks for the link to the oil info! :dance:
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Old 03-25-2007, 12:21 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Paul
The lower the bottom number (0W, 5W) the better the oil flows at start up.

I believe this is the latest TSB from Porsche:

http://www.wrightune.co.uk/downloads/approved_oils.pdf

As a general rule, yes. However, to be precise, you have to check the actual viscosity at cold temp.

For example, the last time I looked, the Red Line 5w-40 actually had a lower cold viscosity than the M1 0-w-40.

That may no longer be true as these guys change formulas all the time.
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Old 03-25-2007, 01:33 PM   #9
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I pulled the original Beru plugs from my '99 Boxster back around 27K miles and replaced them with the Denso iridium plugs.

It drove exactly the same....absolutely no discernable difference.
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Old 03-27-2007, 06:18 AM   #10
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So which oil?

So what oil will my both cars be happy with, the Porsche S and the BMW 540? Should I just use 10W40, 5W40 or 5W30? The previous owner used 15W50 but the car was driven in an all summer weather condition "Florida" I live in Chicago, Illinois weather changes dramatically and on the winter I dont drive my Porsche just in the summer but from time to time I tend to turn on the Porsche and let her run for the occassional winter warm ups.

I would like to stick with the Amsoil brand of oil, they offer a few options 10W40 high performance, 5W40 european formula and 5W30 high performance. I would like to use the same oil on both cars.

Thanks to all in advance! Robert (Chicago)
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Old 03-27-2007, 06:51 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chgolatin2
So what oil will my both cars be happy with, the Porsche S and the BMW 540? Should I just use 10W40, 5W40 or 5W30? The previous owner used 15W50 but the car was driven in an all summer weather condition "Florida" I live in Chicago, Illinois weather changes dramatically and on the winter I dont drive my Porsche just in the summer but from time to time I tend to turn on the Porsche and let her run for the occassional winter warm ups.

I would like to stick with the Amsoil brand of oil, they offer a few options 10W40 high performance, 5W40 european formula and 5W30 high performance. I would like to use the same oil on both cars.

Thanks to all in advance! Robert (Chicago)

The Amsoil 5W-40 Euro is fine for both cars. Ditto the Red Line oil of the same weight.

I would NOT use the M1 0W-40 in the BMW as it tend to be a "thin" 40 wt oil and tends to get even thinner after 2K miles of so.
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Old 03-29-2007, 06:26 PM   #12
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0w40?

Ok, so 0W40 is going to be it. Period on both cars....

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