08-24-2013, 03:31 AM
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#1
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: UK
Posts: 4
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Thanks for your comments.
I have now decided to order the Guardian, ordered it this morning and look to install it next weekend.
The intention is to drop the sump and carry out a thorough inspection to ensure the limited mileage over the last ten years has not not thrown out any debris.
I must admit to being slightly paranoid at present and want to get this fitted before I use her again.
In terms of the oil to be used, can I please have some advice on the viscosity i need to be using going forward and for the long term. Do i stick with the Mobil 1 0-40 or go thicker with 5-40 etc.I would be looking to change it every 6 months or 3,000 miles assuming i have no dreaded 'alerts' in the meantime.
What make oil should i be looking for and it be available here in the UK?
Very grateful for any advices...
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08-24-2013, 07:22 AM
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#2
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Damn Yankee
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Dallas
Posts: 1,117
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Again, if you search this forum you will find a wealth of information regarding oil choice. Everyone seems to have his own favorite flavor.
TO
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08-24-2013, 08:23 AM
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#3
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Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Hernando Beach, Florida
Posts: 444
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Quote:
Originally Posted by striker
Thanks for your comments.
I have now decided to order the Guardian, ordered it this morning and look to install it next weekend.
The intention is to drop the sump and carry out a thorough inspection to ensure the limited mileage over the last ten years has not not thrown out any debris.
I must admit to being slightly paranoid at present and want to get this fitted before I use her again.
In terms of the oil to be used, can I please have some advice on the viscosity i need to be using going forward and for the long term. Do i stick with the Mobil 1 0-40 or go thicker with 5-40 etc.I would be looking to change it every 6 months or 3,000 miles assuming i have no dreaded 'alerts' in the meantime.
What make oil should i be looking for and it be available here in the UK?
Very grateful for any advices...
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While there is nothing inherently wrong with changing your oil every 3,000 miles, I think that is a bit overkill. Porsche recommends every 12,000 miles for your car (mine too), and while I find that a bit underkill, somewhere in between should do nicely.
Do a search on the type of oil It will depend on how you drive it, and there is a ton of info on the subject here.
__________________
2003 Boxster S, 6-spd, Seal Grey/Grey top
Ka is a wheel, and everything is 19
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08-25-2013, 06:35 AM
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#4
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still plays with cars...
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Baden, ON, Canada
Posts: 1,088
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Quote:
Originally Posted by striker
Thanks for your comments.
I have now decided to order the Guardian, ordered it this morning and look to install it next weekend.
The intention is to drop the sump and carry out a thorough inspection to ensure the limited mileage over the last ten years has not not thrown out any debris.
I must admit to being slightly paranoid at present and want to get this fitted before I use her again.
In terms of the oil to be used, can I please have some advice on the viscosity i need to be using going forward and for the long term. Do i stick with the Mobil 1 0-40 or go thicker with 5-40 etc.I would be looking to change it every 6 months or 3,000 miles assuming i have no dreaded 'alerts' in the meantime.
What make oil should i be looking for and it be available here in the UK?
Very grateful for any advices...
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I did my last oil change with Castrol Edge/Syntec 5w40, and have found a markedly lower amount of start-up noise and chain rattle compared with Mobil1 0w40 I put in at the prior oil change.
I figure the heavier oil doesn't drain from the chain tensioners as much as the M1 salad oil did.
Mine gets changed yearly before winter hibernation, and I'm lucky to put on 4000 miles per driving season.
__________________
Six speed 2000 Boxster S
Arctic Silver on Metropol Blue | LN Dual Row IMSR | Arctic Silver console, spoiler frame & bumperettes | Crios mod | Technobrace | RoboTop module & modified convertible top relay for one-touch roof operation
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09-01-2013, 11:30 AM
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#5
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Kent
Posts: 56
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I wouldnt worry too much, i drive mine like i stole it, for the price i paid i really did steal it lol. If your going to die your going to die, if the engines going to , then its going to. Of course you can eat well and exercise, wear a seat belt. Stay home.
But whats the point when death comes to us all.
I say look after it the best you can by servicing it. But drive it as often as you can, and drive it like a porsche should be driven
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09-01-2013, 11:46 AM
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#6
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Kent
Posts: 56
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Guardian costs £250! are you having a laugh. By the time the magnets connect with metal swarf the engine is a gonna surely.
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09-26-2013, 10:18 AM
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#7
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: UK
Posts: 4
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I have now fitted my Guardian and hope it remains in its monitoring (only) status.
The recent discussions concerning overcoming the bearing problem by fitting the DOF system to ensure lubrication made me ponder. I have seen the video.
The cause of the bearing we are told is that of old used acidic oil seeping back into the greased bearing from inside the shaft, where it becomes very hot.
We are further told that the bearing(largely) only suffers impregnation of oil and degradation of the seal where it is sitting in a level garage and unused, thereby suggesting the longer the bearing is moving in nice hot oil there should be no seepage in to the bearing.
Obviously the car cannot be used 24/7 so at times when it remains unused is it a sensible solution to park the vehicle at an incline which will avoid any oil coving the bearing at all while stationary.- not always practical I know.
Is it a fact that healthly bearing should throw no oil into the hollow shaft or should it remain completely dry there?
On the assumption i will need a new bearing at some stage, probably in the not too distant future, should i go with the original steel ball bearings or ceramic, and what would be the life expectancy of such a new bearing? Is it purely done to the longevity of the quality of the seal itself?
Would appreciate your thoughts.
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