Rear trailing arms replacement guide DIY

[Danimal]

Quick update: these are still working out really well. The car feels tighter than before and I think it reduced some of the vibration I was getting at 75-80mph. And for a Porsche project, it was almost too easy 😆

Originally Posted by Danimal

I had the classic clattering in the back going over rough ground at low speeds. So I changed the rear trailing arms with the 987 TRW part listed in this thread. It is much cheaper than the corresponding 986 part from TRW.

I did it with the whole car up in the air using lift bars. Had no problem aligning the bolts, just had to push a little on the lower control arm. I used the existing bolts and torqued them to spec (118ft/lbs). I did not use loctite but sort of wished I did. Oh well.

Took it on two test drives and the clatter is gone. Still can’t figure out what was wrong with the olds ones. But glad the commotion is gone 👍

Another great fix from the forums in the books! 📕

[lkchris]

[QUOTE=911monty;479191The reason it is installed with the nut on bottom is so that if the nut were to fall off, the bolt would still be in place. With nut on top if nut falls off bolt also falls out.[/QUOTE]

Theory is correct, but nevertheless factory installs them with nut on top … and plenty of thread locker to keep it from coming loose.

New factory bolts do not arrive with pre installed thread locker, so apply some when replacing.

There is factory applied thread locker on the front end bolt, too. Theory would have it, you chase the threads on captive nut to remove old sealant first.

I’d use new nuts and bolts for this job. Just good practice and also saves cleaning off old thread locker.